Tashi Delek Tibet! A journey through the magical land

Introduction

The first time I wanted to go to Tibet backs to when I was 8 years old after I read “Tintin au Tibet” (well “Tintin in Tibet”, the comic adventure comic by Herge) by that time, I was already passionate about the world and geography.

Tashi Delek in Tibetan means good fortune, good luck; it is a way to greet people.

When you say Tibet, the first images you have in your mind are the striking Potala Palace in Lhasa, the pilgrims going around the Jokhang Temple in Barkhor Square completing their holly circuit called the Kora or the summit or the mighty Everest known as Qomolangma in Tibet, the roof of the world.

Tibet is secret, the area was closed for a long time to foreigners, it has never been easy to travel to Tibet due to its political and geographical situation. With the Olympic Games taking place in Beijing this year,  the world had their eyes on China, and Tibet featured in the news many times due to the riots in March and “Free Tibet” campaigners.

When I was in Nepal I saw myself refugees who fled their homeland. More than ever before I wanted to discover and see what Tibet was really like; other than related from newspapers and TV news.

I wanted to see a lot of Tibet, I choose a trip which I could share the life of the Tibetan pilgrims so I wanted to embark on  the holy circuit; the Kora of the sacred mountain which is Mt Kailash, the ancient kingdom of Guge, and I saw Everest from the Nepalese side; so  I wanted to see what was it like on the other side.

I will try to relate my adventure as lived through it, as I saw it, avoiding to entering a political debate, I want you to discover the everyday Tibetan life with its people, their culture, their religion full of treasures and stunning landscape. You will share my laughs, joy and frustrations…I will also include descriptions of sites with their history. Statistics are unrelialable so I will not bore you with that!

While I was in Tibet, I stayed in Tibetan guesthouses. While shopping in Tibetan owned shop, I ate with locals. Despite being in China I almost did not come into contact with them (Han Chinese). I found the Tibetans the warmest welcoming people and devoted to their religion. I can only regret that communication was limited because of the language barrier.

My trip took me to the western end of Tibet, from Lhasa we drove a total of 3400Km to the Nepalese border.

In Tibet; only tour groups are allowed, it is almost impossible to travel independently out of Lhasa. Travellers must buy excursions from local travel agents, my tour was run by a Tibetan Agency in Lhasa (I will not name it to protect the guilty and the innocent…).

I will first fly to Hong Kong to spend one night before flying to Chengdu, then board the “sky-train” to Lhasa, where I will meet my tour.

Armed with patience, tolerance and good humour I am ready for my big trip. Now follow me on my enchanting and captivating adventure….

Chapter 1

A short introduction to Tibet

1) A brief historical Introduction to Tibet

Most people are confused about what Tibet really is. Tibet was at one time one independent country with all the amenities; a currency, foreign policy, armed forces but what makes with its laws were based on Buddhism (Gelukpa order). Tibet remained closed for the most part to foreigners and was content running in a peaceful compassionate way. All of this changed from the 1950’s and during the Cultural Revolution started by Chairman Mao and People’s Republic of China. The idea behind the Cultural Revolution was to advance China into the 20th century by getting rid of things old, cultural relics were a bad thing. Many people who had been wealthy landlords were forced into labour camps and their former tenants became their brutal caretakers. This soon proved to be a disaster as so many deaths occurred with famine and mass killings. The People’s Liberation Army had been given too much power and slowly became completely out of control. Between the years of 1950 and 1970 more then 1.2 million Tibetans were killed as a side effect of the Cultural Revolution. During the Cultural Revolution up to 1976, freedom of religion was seriously violated in Tibet. The Red Guards destroyed as many as 6000 temples as well as religious artwork and objects. In 1965 the T.A.R (Tibetan Autonomous Region) was created. Although some limited freedoms were restored after the end of the Cultural Revolution, there was a great repulsion felt by the Tibetans as they are obliged to act as Han Chinese. The antipathy grew further with the afflux of Chinese migrants as in some areas Tibetans are a minority on their own land. Today, spiritual devotion is the core identity of most Tibetans especially in the rural parts of the country.

2) Geography and natural resources

Tibet is located in the southwest of China. It shares its borders with Myanmar, Bhutan, Nepal and Sikkim area, India and the Kasmir area. It covers an area of 1.22 million square Km which is 1/8th of China.  Tibet enjoys a unique plateau environment with an average height of 4000metres, it is the highest place on earth and is known as “the roof of the world”. The Tibetan plateau is one of  the remotest and most isolated land area on earth. It is composed of giant mountains, plateaux, valleys and lakes. The Tibetan plateau is also rich in ores and minerals including copper, lead, zinc, iron, arsenic, sulphur, bauxite, mica and sapphire.

The mountains constitute the backbone of the Tibetan plateau. Splendid peaks with an elevation of over 5000 metres are capped with snow all year round. The Himalayas on China’s border with India and Nepal is extending some 2400Km, and is 200-300Km wide, 11 peaks are over 8000 metres. Mount Qomolongma or Everest is 8843 metres towering as the highest mountain on earth. On the Nyainquentangla mountain range which is running in the middle of the Tibet plateau serve as a border between north and south Tibet. Here with an elevation of 6656 metres, Mount Kangrinboqe or Mt Kailash meaning the Mountain of the Great Snow God, a holy place is the highest.

Tibet also counts the deepest canyon, Yarlung Zangbo Grand Cayon with a depth averaging 5000-6000 metres is the deepest. There are also numerous rivers and lakes.

Agriculture and livestock are the economic pillars of Tibet, cultivating mainly sheep, goats and yaks and growing mainly barley, wheat, potatoes and rape.

Pre-departure

I wanted to know more about the place I wanted to visit so I bought myself the Lonely Planet guide to Tibet, to read about the culture and history as well as a map to bring during my travels.

Anyone travelling to China needs a visa, but due to some contradicting rules, you are not allowed to say Tibet on your Chinese application form, so I had to be economical with truth and put something else. My travel agent provided me a tour itenary I was supposed to undertake in China if you see what I mean.

Once I had my visa I was ready to go, pack my clothes, Swiss-knife, passport and airline tickets without forgetting my patience and good sense of humour which are essentials.

Day 1: Thursday 04 September 2008

My flight was leaving late in the evening at 21.05, so I spent the day at home just relaxing, or at least trying to as we had an electricity cut. It was a fault with the meter. At 16.50 I closed my front door and left home, my trip was finally starting after such a long wait and my boyfriend Gary who arrived from work on time took me to the airport. We took the Victoria line to Kings Cross St Pancras, it is like going to work! Changed for the Circle line to Paddington and with no time wasted, we jumped into the Heathrow Express train. At 18.30 I was checked in for my flight NZ38 with Air New Zealand, for once, no queues at check-in, but I was very early. With public transport in London you can never be to careful I supposed!

I said my good-byes then went through the queue at security and immigration.

I booked an invitation to use the Servisair lounge before I boarded my flight, all in comfort.

Then time came to board, the flight was on time. I was sitting next to a gentleman who was working in the casino business in Macau.

The in flight entertainment was good I watched Kung-Fu Panda and The Children of Huang Shi. The story is about a young British journalist, George Hogg, who with the assistance of a courageous Australian nurse, saves a group of orphaned children during the Japanese occupation of China in 1937.

After dinner was served I went to sleep for a while.

Day 2: Friday 05 September 2008

Due to the time difference most of the day was gone already by the time the plane touched down in Hong Kong at 15.30.  We arrived 20 minutes early! We flew all around the city before landing despite the cloudy weather it was lovely! Passport control was easy, the queue was acceptable, and I collected my luggage and went to find the hotel transport desk. It was hard to find but I made it, after boarding the S1 shuttle I arrived at the Novotel City gate. I paid for the room thanks to a discount I have with the ACCOR group.

The room was lovely, it was really nice! I spent the evening just hanging around the hotel, there was a big shopping center. Well I know what you are thinking! No I did not buy anything!

I treated myself to Pizza Hut for dinner then when to bed, as I did not sleep that well during the flight. I was a bit tired, by 21.00 was in bed!

Chapter2

Entering China

Day 3: Saturday 06 September 2008

I woke up early in the lovely Novotel City Gate room 1135. Novotel changed since I was a chamber maid in 1991 during my work placement! I woke up in the middle of the night so I was still feeling tired. I took the official Novotel mini-bus to go to the airport this time, much easier and comfy than the S1 bus of yesterday.

My flight 6502 of Air China to Chengdu was leaving at 10.20, I checked-in with no problems, the airport is really nice. There were a lot of empty seats on board.

Chengdu is a main gateway city to go to Tibet, it is the most important city in south-west China and is the capital of the Sichuan province. It has a population of around 4.1 million people. The history of Chengdu can be traced back with a recorded history of 2,400 years when the first emperor built his capital here and named the city. Although there is evidence of human habitation there 3,700 – 4,500 years ago. Through thousands of years its original name has been kept and its position as the capital and as the significant center of politics, commerce and military of the Sichuan area (once called Shu) has remained unchanged. Since the Han (206B.C.-220) and Tang (618-907) Dynasties when its handicraft industry flourished, Chengdu has been famous for its brocades and embroideries. Shu embroideries still enjoy a high reputation for their bright colours and delicate designs. Chengdu was the place where the bronze culture, an indispensable part of ancient Chinese culture, originated, the place where the Southern Silk Road started, and the place where the earliest paper currency  Jiaozi was first printed. The town is also famous for its spicy cuisine.

I arrived in Chengdu at about 13.00, passed through passport control with no problems as it was very fast and efficient. Wang Yi, my local guide was waiting for me at the airport, he was speaking French as well. On the way to my hotel I booked my excursions for the Panda Research Centre and the evening at the Sichuan Opera House.

I checked in at my hotel and paid a deposit of 200RMB or Yuan, the local currency, 1GBP is 12.3RMB. The Shu Feng hotel was located in the Tibetan area.

After a short rest, I went to visit Wuhou Memorial Temple, the entrance was 60RMB. It is also known as the temple of “The 3 Kingdoms”. The shrine was initially built in 223, it now covers 14000 square meters. The main entrance is facing south. The main body of the temple is divided into five sections; the Gate, the Second Gate, the Hall of Liu Bei (161-223), Emperor of the Kingdom of Shu in the Three Kingdom Dynasty (220-581 AD), The Corridor, and the Hall of Zhuge Liang (181-234), Prime Minister of the kingdom. It was very pleasant to walk around as it is away from the noise of the city and surrounded by trees and singing birds. There was also a nice tea house nearby. I saw a guy painting inside small bottles, I bought one for me, it was decorated with Pandas.

In the evening I walked  around the Tibetan area next to my hotel, my first sample of Tibet, my first day in China, really my first day of my trip! I had dinner in my room as I was feeling tired.

Day 4: Sunday 07 September 2008

I was picked up at 07.30 to go to the Panda Research Centre.  The Giant Panda is the symbol of China as well as the WWF. This animal is loved not only in China but all over the world. They are found only in Sichuan, Shaanxi and Gansu provinces. In total there are fewer than 1000, of which 80% are living within the territory of Sichuan province.

It took us about 25mins to reach the centre which is located about 20kms away from the centre of Chengdu. It has been created to imitate the pandas’ natural habitat in order that they have the best possible environment for rearing and breeding.

The Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding (known as ”Chengdu Panda Base”) is a non-profit organization engaged in wildlife research, captive breeding, conservation education, and educational tourism: “Our goals are to be a world-class research facility, conservation education centre, and international educational tourism destination”. The current goal is to increase the captive population of giant pandas. The ultimate goal is to reintroduce giant pandas to the wild. To achieve this goal certain pandas will be raised in such a way as to provide them with the necessary skills to survive in the wild. Reintroduction of captive animals to the wild will both increase the number of individuals and the genetic diversity of the wild population. The Research Base hopes to help ensure the survival of giant pandas and increase the chances for giant pandas to co-exist with humankind.

The centre was founded in 1987 with six giant pandas rescued from the wild. Today the base has about 60 Pandas. According to the centre “Due to our research and commitment to animal health and welfare, 110 giant panda cubs have been born to our Base in 75 litters, 70 survived and now we have 62. To assist other institutions holding giant pandas we provide technical support and send our experts to assist with care, rearing, and breeding. So that all giant panda researchers can share their knowledge, we host the Giant Panda Annual Technical Meeting, inviting researchers from all over the world to share information to improve captive management for the conservation of giant pandas.”

I always wanted to see the pandas, today, it was my dreams come true, they are so cute and good loving animals. First we saw 2 pandas in an enclosure having a gentle fight, it was more playing then fighting, they were chewing each others ears, I also saw they were really good at climbing trees. The guide told us it was unusual as pandas spend their day sleeping and eating. We moved on further to see other pandas who were sleeping. I am not very fond of some places where animals are kept in captivity but here they have a huge place to play and live and the staff are dedicated to them ensuring of their well being. They are so cute! My first experience was so amazing! Unique! There are no words good enough to describe my feelings, it is really awesome!

We walked up to the nursery area, here pandas are kept from their birth up until they reach the age of 18 months old when they become independent. We arrived at the best time of the year as during late August and September, it the time of year when births occurs. I felt privilege and very lucky as I saw a baby panda of 1 day old, one of 1 month old and 3 aged 3 months old, they are so adorable! Their weight at birth is only 1/1000th of the mother’s weight. Outside there were young cubs playing. We saw a special hut where tourists who were ready to part of their money could get their photographs taken with a Giant Panda or a Red Panda, it was quite expensive as well, it was for a good cause as it is for helping the research centre, but I feel strongly about it, we are is a special panda zoo, pandas even if they are bred in captivity are still wild animals as the centre is trying to pretend and should NOT be petted by tourists with dirty hands, even if they wear protecting clothing as germs will still get in. I put my personal concerns with the guide, and he agreed with me.  Only their carer should touch them in certain circumstances when they need medical attention for example.

It was about feeding time so we rushed back to the cub’s enclosure to watch but within 2 minutes a torrential downpour arrived so we ran for cover. I loved they way they looked at us, they looked so gentle and adorable.

We made our way to the Red Panda enclosure there was 20 of them, the red panda does not look anything like the giant panda. They were busy eating, same as the giant pandas I could stay here for hours observing them. They are really cute as well.

We made our way to the Panda museum, witch retrace the life and habitat of the Panda, next to the museum is the Butterfly house, with live and dead butterflies in a small museum. After that we saw a film about the Research Base and their breeding program, including the birth of a panda, it was really interesting.

Before leaving we stopped by the souvenir shop where I bought a cuddly toy and a T-Shirt.

It was time to go, I was so happy to have seen the symbol of China, staff here are really dedicated and work hard to preserve this loving animal. It is an experience I will never forget, I will treasure it for a long time.

After I was dropped off, I walked around for a bit then tried to change all my dollars in RMB to pay for my trip both banks next to my hotel could not do it. I had a quick lunch in a small dirty restaurant then took a taxi to Renmin Park, it cost me only 7 Yuan plus 1 RMB fuel surcharge. In Chengdu every taxi charges 1 extra Yuan for a fuel surcharge. (1GBP=12.3RMB). It was lovely, as it was a Sunday the park was busy, there were lots people dancing, chanting, playing badminton, and card games. I was even invited to join a session of Tai-chi, but with wearing my mountain walking boots it was not easy! The locals are very kind! Inside the park there is a monument dedicated to railway workers. The atmosphere in the park despite being busy was very pleasant, I saw the true China, what locals are up to in their leisure time.

I exited the park briefly as I spotted a bank being opened, yes in China banks are opened on Sundays! I wanted to changed my money as I needed 15800RMB to pay for my trip. The first bank I went to communication was difficult, I did not known which counter to go to so I asked the policemen at the entrance who called another one who called somebody else. The poor guy was trying to help me, at the end a women who spoke English came and told that in this bank they were not able to change money but show the way to the nearest Bank of China bank who will be able to do it., it was about 500 metres. I have to say,  I did not get what I wanted, but 10/10 on their customer service skills. I made my way to the Bank of China, when I arrived it was more or less the same story, but when I told them the amount I wanted they were shocked , I think! They did not believe it. They will probably gossip about me in their staff room as we do at Eurostar about every weird passenger we get! They took my passport away and made photocopies while apologising for the wait. I wonder what they will do, are suspecting me of a dark plot?? It took time but we got there, I have my money to pay my trip cash in Lhasa, and a big pile of cash, 16000 Yuan more or less. I feel rich!

I went back to the park, and strolled around for a while then I went to the Bonsai garden next to it, it was so relaxing, so peaceful, I sat down here and enjoyed the peace and quiet. I took a taxi back and paid 9 Yuan including the fuel surcharge.

In the evening I went to the Sichuan Opera Theatre, there was a group of Danes with me. We saw the show at the Shu Feng Ya Yun Teahouse. Before the show started, I treated myself to a head massage and a glass of wine (50 RMB each). The first show was called Nao Tai. Nao Tai is a piece of gong and drums music. It contains the best of  Sichuan folk music. Then we saw the opera of Baixi Zhengba, it is really a wonderful performance, which was derived from a performance during the Han Dynasty. The costumes were splendid! (Check my photos in my Chengdu album). Shortly after, we had the rolling light show. Its history dates back from 400 hundred years ago and is played by a clown wearing a light on his head telling a story about a wife’s punishment to her husband, their skills are truly unique! Then we had a demonstration of Gaohu which is a type of violin with 2 strings. it was very nice. The show continued with the Stick-puppet show, the show took its roots during the Han Dynasty (202BC-204AD), it is very difficult to perform, it was a story about a fairy who descended on the world and was infatuated with the life of humans and the beauty of the world. Then we were treated to another musical show, it was a type of trumpet called Suona. Then came the part which I preferred the best, the hand shadow, sounds simple you think?? The guy had so much dexterity and supple fingers. Birds, dogs, horses, rabbits, owls, you name it! Then the best for the end… the changing faces and spitting fire show. Changing faces is unique to the Sichuan Opera. During the performance, the actors change their masks and costumes in a magic way to show the rapid diversification and roles of the innermost being. Spitting fire is also unique, complicated and magnificent.

I went back to the hotel, and went to bed.

Day 5: Monday 08 September 2008

I woke up about 09.30 in my room 3016 in the Shu Feng Hotel. I still felt tired from the night before. I started my packing as well. It rained all night and it was still raining a little bit. I went to the tour agency as they told me my pick up to the train station was at 18.30 but according to my timetable the train was leaving at 18.18! I needed to double check for my own peace of mind. On my way to the agency I stopped at a trekking shop where the clothes were so cheap that I wanted everything! At the end I bought a small top for less than 10GBP. Once I was in the agency they gave me my ticket as well as a photocopy of my Tibetan permits. At the end they told me that the time was changed to 20.38.

Later I made my way by taxi to Wenshu Temple. This time it was much harder to find a cab, but playing smart like the locals finally paid off, the 5KM ride cost me 16RMB. Taxis in Chengdu charge 1.40RMB/KM + waiting time as well as an extra 1 RMB for fuel surcharge.

The surrounding area of the temple was lovely, with expensive shops.

Wenshu is a monastery which dates back to the Tang dynasty (618-907). It is Chengdu’s largest and best-preserved Buddhist temple. The buildings today however dates from the Qing dynasty (1644-1911). The temple was rebuilt in 1691. It means “the Temple of the Buddha of Wisdom”.

After paying the entrance fee of 5RMB I entered the temple. I made my way to the garden where there was a “pond of life” with turtles and goldfish. I had a squashed cookie and started to feed the animals, it was very relaxing! I continued my walk through the garden and found a new friend, a really cute cat. Some monks walked by and they smiled at me when they saw I was stroking the cat. A guy called me from far away as basically he wanted to sell me some dodgy tours of his, I said I was not interested. At the back of the garden there was a very nice temple. Later I made my way back to the main temple area. I saw the “Precious Hall of Shakyamuni”,  here a lot of locals were devoted to the temple. I continued my way until I reached the last pavillon, the Tripitaka Pavillon or Scriptures Hall. In this pavillon I saw “wise says” so I started to write some down. Suddenly I was surrounded by the locals who were watching what I was writing down such as “Generous managers are not put off by dull subordinates”.

I left the main temples to walk to the “Thousand Buddha” Pagoda. The Pagoda is 11 stories with a height of 22 metres and is decorated with a small yellow bell hung on each of the six upturned corners. Blown by the wind, the bells give out melodious sounds. It is the tallest iron pagoda in China.

Continuing my way towards the teahouse I saw an old woman. She was trying to talk to me but I did not understand what she wanted, how frustrating! I popped-in to the teahouse, but from the back, not knowing for sure how the system was working I sat down and waited.  I could feel the locals staring at me! Then I spotted the kiosk on the other side where visitors have to pay, to collect their bowls of tea at the counter then someone comes to fill it up. It cost 30RMB, a bit too expensive for a cup of tea!!! I thought it was a joke! So I walked away. I saw a type of a Chinese chemist shop with dead dried snakes and seahorses. It was revolting!

On the way out still around the temple I stopped in a small eating place where I stuffed my face with Portuguese egg tarts. I saw the advert for this on Chinese TV everywhere! The owner was eager to communicate with me, so out came my phrasebook! It was a nice experience.

I found the locals in Chengdu very nice and approachable, a complete different experience from what I saw in Bejing in 2004.

I took my taxi back to stop nearby my hotel. Along the way I saw street sweepers again in the middle of the boulevards, that’s a suicidal job! The price for the return was the same as the way in.

I stopped at a Tibetan restaurant to have a nice beer. A little boy kidnapped my language book and was looking at it with admiration, he must have been around 8. The only annoying thing which I didn’t get use to were people smoking everywhere! After that I walked around the area for a while then went back to the hotel where I treated myself to a nice foot massage! It was really good, especially after walking around all day!

I collected my luggage at reception, sorted a few things out and waited for my transfer to Chengdu train station.

My transfer arrived on time, the bloke could not park properly so he dropped me far from the entrance pointing vaguely where I had to go, there were people everywhere. I joined the queue, only people with tickets are allowed inside the railway station, when I reached the security guard he told me in Chinese and with expressive gesture I was in the wrong queue and the train to Tibet was boarding….on the other side of the station, of course, so I dragged my bags where I eventually found the right place.

It was like Eurostar! Passengers have to go through an “immigration” check, which for me will be a Tibetan permit/passport check and for the local just an ID check then through x-ray security. I saw no other foreigners in the queue. I reached the policeman checking people although I was not sure what he wanted exactly. I took my passport, train ticket and photocopy of Tibetan permit out. I did not have the original as the agency did not have it, to this day I not sure where it was excatly, but well the agency guy told me it was ok. The policeman called his supervisor pointing at my photocopy.  Inside of me I was thinking, “oh my god please let me through!” At the end I was waved past, I am in! I took a seat in what was a kind of a waiting lounge but it was open like a hangar, so it was cold as it was raining again.

I sad down at a corner and I was immediately confronted with a staring squad. I smiled and said a big Ni Hao and Tashi Delek, or hello if you prefer. Immediately, a family who was sitting behind me tried to communicate and I made instant friends. It was really a great experience as this my first encounter with Tibetans. One of them spoke a bit of English and was eager to try it.  I asked him what he thought of the railway in relation to the Tibetan culture. He said he was glad that the train came finally to Tibet as it is cheaper than flying and easier for him as he was studying in China, also the imported good from China are now cheaper and less costly to be transported by train than by plane, there is also more choice. I dared asking him if the army was using it a lot. He said no as when they move goods they use their planes or still use their trucks by road. Only once in a while are there officers travelling but not too often. Our short talk was cut by an announcement. Every body got up and was ready, he told me that gates will open shortly. I was watching the train getting ready with small carts being driven along the platform with what look like food on it and staff walking up and down the platform.

After a wait of  20 minutes the gates finally opened, I was faced with the national stampede, the massive rush towards the train. Every one was pushing, running… I was thinking that from now on passengers should not dare complaining about boarding on Eurostar trains ever again! Despite my ticket being written in Chinese I worked out that I was in carriage 5, bunk 19. No excuses now if some Eurostar passengers can’t read their tickets in their own language!

I climbed to my carriage and  found my bunk. Minutes before departure, I realise that Ihave the bunk on my own, cool! The carriage attendant came, she did not speak English so I showed her everything; ticket, passport, Tibetan Permit… She took my ticket away and gave me a token instead, I hope I will get my ticket back, I want to keep it. She also gave me “Passenger Health Declaration form” to say that I was fit enought to travel and did not have heart, lungs or blood pressure problems in order to travel on board of the train.

The train left the station at 20.38, bang on time! I was on my way to mighty Tibet! After settling down I decided to try the food carriage in number 7. Communication was again difficult ; thanks God that I had my Chinese phrase book! I got more or less what I wanted and yes, people were smoking! Inside the carriage there were other train attendants. After my dinner I went back to my couchette and got ready to spend my first night on board. The Tv screen we had on board were not not working, it is a shame, but it would have been probably only in Chinese anyway.

Chapter 3

The Qinghai – Tibet Railway

From Chengdu to Lhasa by train

 

Building a railway to Tibet has been a dream and an obsession since Chairman Mao to every Chinese leader. Since July 2006, this dream came true when one of the greatest engineering projects in railways opened. It took five years (It started in June 2001), hundred of thousands of workers to lay the tracks through the Tibetan plateau.

The new line runs from Golmud, it runs in the south-south-west direction to Lhasa, through Nanshankou, Kunlun Mountains, Tanggula Mountains passes, then over the Qinghai/Tibet border southwards to Amdo, Nagqu, Damxung, Yangpachen. After that, the line turns southeast into Lhasa, ending just outside the town. According to Chinese Government sources, the project involved the permanent employment of 67,000 Chinese technicians and workers and another 16,000 workers seasonally employed locally.  Only “a handful” lost their life due to accidents in the construction work.

The line in world records according to the official China Railway website:

- The highest railway in the world. About 960 kilometres of it are at an altitude of 4,000 meters and more with the highest point being 5,072 meters above sea level.

- The longest plateau railway in the world. From Golmud of Qinghai Province to Lhasa, capital of Tibet Autonomous Region, the rail link crosses deserts, Gobi, marshes, wetland, snow capped mountains and meadow with a total length of 1,142 kilometres.

- The longest railway crossing on frozen-earth plateau with 550 kilometres built on a foundation of perennial and continually frozen ground.

- The highest-altitude railway station in the world – Tanggula Railway Station, 5,068 meters above sea level, and covering an area of 77,000 square meters.

- The longest frozen-earth plateau tunnel in the world – Kunlun Mountain Tunnel, 1,686 meters long, at an average altitude of 4,600 meters and with temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius. The oxygen content of the air is half that in plain areas.

The line opened with much of controversy, many critics are saying it will destroy the heart of the Tibetan culture with the afflux of Chinese migrants. That the army will use the train to convoy more men and goods. Before the railway there was only 2 ways to get to Tibet. By plane which was expensive and less eco-friendly than the train, or by road. Going to Tibet by road from Golmud was a 3 days and nights bouncing in the back of an overcrowded bus, which many of them ended at the bottom of a ravine.

When I spoke to the Tibetan gentleman at the station he thought that the train was a good thing as it is easier for trade and cheaper for the local population.

The enviromentalists were kept happy as under-passes were constructed under the line for migrating animals such as the Tibetan antelope, or for local herders to cross from one side to another with their yaks, sheep or goats.

Lhasa changed a lot since when Francis Younghusband entered this city who was untouched by the outside world (100 years ago). But as any city Lhasa is developing with or without the arrival of the railway line. Of course some people will not like it as Lhasa changed a lot in last past years and will continue to develop.

I choose to travel to Tibet by train which takes much longer than by air, but there is no doubt that the train experience is far more exciting and interesting than the plane.

Day 6:  Tuesday 09 September 2008

I woke up on board after my first night, about 06.30 but lay in bed. We passed through a section of tunnels in a mountain region. I just miss a stop as I fall back asleep. We stopped at Baoji station for a short while. After a while I decided to get up, as I made my may to the bathroom, I saw a sign on board “next stop Lanzhou”. The same sign also said, !time is 08.36″. It is exactly 12 hours I left Chengdu, according to the sign again, the altitude is 639m and the train is running late, which I don’t really care anyway. It was raining outside, we passed a few rural villages alongside the Yellow River; the valley is very fertile.  We arrived at the industrial town of Lanzhou, it was about 13.00; I got out on the platform for five minutes, there were a lot of street vendors, and after we left we changed the direction of travel as well.

Later 3 guys joined me in my cabin, I told them it was a non smoking zone here as I spotted one with a cigarette, anyway we started to do small talk, they looked very friendly. We passed through a small station called Yuan Yang Zhen. Later they invited me for lunch; we took place in the dinning carriage and ordered food. It was embarrassing as they paid for it. I was impressed by their hospitality.

I will never get bored of watching the Chinese landscape unrolling in front of me, it is very rural. The sign says altitude 1765m, we started the climb to the Tibetan plateau, I thought we were arriving in Xining, but it was a false alert. One hour after lunch I went to  lie down for a bit, one of the guy is snoring: great!!!! I did not want to sleep for too much as I will not sleep during the night, but after my quick nap I felt really good. How can I be tired I don’t do anything apart from looking out the window!

I tried to communicate again with my travelling companions, they are very nice I felt guilty having a go them when they had the cigarette. Yes; it is rude but at the end if you don’t say anything, they don’t know they cause disturbance. But I have to admit even in the dinning carriage they did not even think about smoking.

A girl from the restaurant, a waitress spoke small amonts of English; she was selling commemorative stamp books about the train journey. I bought 2 different models at a total cost of 50RMB.

It is 16.30 we just passed through Pin Annyi station or something like that, it must be a Muslim area as all the locals are wearing the traditional Muslim costume and I saw a mosque as well.

It is 16.52 we are pulling into Xining station, an ancient capital on the silk road. We are now 1388Km from Chengdu; with an altitude of 2188m. I ran to the front of the train which was a further 200m, only to find out the locomotive was not there as they were changing it. I was already out of breath! There was an itense activity on platform with the vendors, lugguage porters…

Back into the train I was observing my fellow travellers some, like me were staring at the windows, others were sleeping or playing card games. Outside I saw some rural villages with some Chinese slogans written on the wall.

I am so happy about my experience of China, the locals do help you if you make an effort. It helps as well as I am travelling on my own, and I am the only foreigners on board. A few locals approached me with a big “hello!” a few times. I totally do not regret having chosen this mode of transport. It is truly a unique experience.

By the way the names of my fellow companions are Li Dong, Wang Chun Ping, and Zhang Rui Zhang. I am in the soft sleeper class which consist of 4 couchettes per bunk. Most Tibetans will travel in  hard seat class, which as the names says, is just a seat. My time on this train reminds me the time I spent on the Trans-Siberian in 2004 (see my previous blog).

It stopped raining, we have now a bright sunshine; is that because we are climbing higher? It brightens my mood! We went for dinner at 18.30. Everybody wanted to say chin chin, which is Gambei in Chinese, the atmosphere was really great, the people on board were very nice! There was 2 guys from the PLA in back they even raised their glasses to me. After dinner I watched the sunset over the Qinghai Hu (Lake of Qinghai). The lake is the largest inland salt water lake in China. Qinghai means which is also the name of the province means green lake in Chinese. It has an area of 4,635 sq km and is more than 360km (220 miles) in circumference. The sunset was a marvel, really beautiful, I felt so lucky being able to see this!

This journey was really inspiring, I said good bye to the sun before going to bed, our altitude was 3229m. Tibet is getting closer!

Earlier on, the train attendant came to the carriage to give us the oxygen tubes. The train is equipped with oxygen supply to combat altitude sickness. The atmosphere here holds between 40 and 50 percent less oxygen than the sea level. Oxygen is pumped into the rail carriages.

Day 7: Wednesday 10 September 2008

I woke up at about 05.30, it was still pitch dark outside, but I peak through the window and I saw snow on the mountains. It was really nice with only the light of the moon reflecting on it! I went back to bed only to wake up at about 07.30. We passed through Golmud during the night; I was asleep during the stop. We are now on the Tibetan plateaux but still in the Qinghai province, it is really lovely! There is a fence bordering the railway line so animals can not trespass on the line. We climb higher, there is snow all over, we are on the permafrost terrain.  This line is a great innovation at it is built on an artificial elevated terrain, most bridges are built to preserve the variation in the climate change, without it the rails will sink in the med, when the soil gets warmer. In some parts tubes pumping amoniac are impletended inside the rails to keep the temperature stable. Ahead of me I can see a bridge, as it is curving I also see the front of the train, it is difficult to imagine how they built this railway, as we are miles from everything and because of the difficult terrain and freezing weather…

The sign says we are now at an altitude of 4727, and we cruise at a speed of 80KM. As the train carries on towards its final destination; along the way I saw a few herders with their grazing yaks. We waved at each others. At one stage the railway line is running along side the Friendship Highway, I saw trucks on the road struggling their way up. We are coming towards another bridge with some nomads next to it, it must be so hard to live here! I also some wild birds, I am not sure what it was, may be eagles? They are looking for their breakfast probably! The attendant kept putting the curtains back together; as us, the passengers kept moving it to take photos. Well really, it was only the Chinese guy next door and…me!

It is 09.44, we just passed through the small town of Yanshipping. The town is bordered by the Bi Qu River and the railway line. It is a small railway station geared up for the locals.

It is 10.08 according to the altimeter on board we are 4845m, we are higher than Mt Blanc the highest peak of Europe! It is so amazing! I am on a train!

I saw some Chinese Army trucks on the road there are at least 30 or more of them! I wonder where they are going! Along the tracks I saw a few maintenance workers, it look so isolated! I went back for a quick lie down awaiting with excitement the Tanggula Pass, the highest point.  Li Dong was sleeping, he was feeling rough because of the altitude.

I got up just in time to see the Tanggula pass, I nearly missed it, the train did not even slow down, no announcement were even made, not even in Chinese, a fellow travelling companion from the next bunk was like me taking photos. The station is what we call a ghost station, it just here for the sake of it, but the train do not take passengers. The highest point, we are at 5072 meters above sea level! But at least they can say it is the highest railway station in the world.

Tanggula Pass marked the border between the Qinghai Province and the Tibetan Autonomous Region. Tibet at last! I realised my dream to see and touch the land the closest to the sky!

We carried on, at one stage saw an army vehicle watching our train going passed and driving away once it was gone. I saw also some nomads on their horses with their sheep.

We continue our way, we were next to Tso Nag lake, it was beautiful, especially are big dark clouds were starting to form above the lake. The train posed for a while at a small station, we decided to go for lunch, at the same time it started raining outside. The train was still at a standstill, someone got on board to empty the toilets containers! The train started rolling again, I went back to my bunk. I saw a huge bridge, so out came my camera, the sight was very impressive!

We arrived at Narqui at about 13.50, the town is about 4500meters high. We are 300Km from Lhasa and 3038 KM from Chengdu. Here my first adventure begins…! I got off the train quickly to take a photo of the locomotive, forgetting the altitude I ran to the front of the train. I was running out of breathI I was about to take my photo when I heard an announcement in English for Once ! (Was it especially for me??) It was saying that “all passengers remaining on the platforms”;meaning me! At that moment, I turned round and realised I was the only one left on the platform. The announcement carried on to say that “passengers should get on board imediatly”!  So I boarded the first carriage I saw which was coach 11, the assistant was saying something, but anyway I was in. It was the hard seats area, lots of Tibetans were inside, it was really crowded, they were surprised to see me walking through! I said a big Tashi Deleh to them. After a while I reached the restaurant car in carriage 7 where the carriage attendant which I nicknamed Little Guy had a go at me in Chinese, he was probably saying that I was mad, and should not have done that, he was not impressed! Oh well, I was there now!

Off we went as the train rolled away, I saw a lonely nomad waving at us, then later I knew I was in Tibet for good as I saw some P.L.A (People’s Liberation Army) soldiers based at on an average every kilometres or so along the line. They all had a motorcycle and a small white tent. They were standing saluting the train as it comes along. I later discovered that officially they were here to protect the railway line. Authorities fear that the line might be blown up by disatisfied Tibetans, they also banned foreign travellers along most parts of the railway. The other version I also heard is that they are more worried about scavengers eager to steal the rails than saboteurs wanting to disrupt services. I took some photos to add in my collection “naughty”.

It is now 15.00 I started to pack my stuff. The area is really stunning, amazing these mountains act like a rampart, I can see a few nomads, they are using small passage ways under line to cross with heir yaks to access the grazing grounds on the other side of the railway line. I just saw a lone horseman galloping along the line.

Lhasa is getting closer! I enjoy this trip, I remember the Danish tour leader in Chengdu saying that the railway is not as good as they say in the books, what does he means! ??? Ok, the train does not do photo stops as one newspaper article mentioned once, but the landscape is so amazing.

I wonder what Alexandra David Neel, the first Parisian to enter Lhasa; the forbidden city in 1924 will think of Tibet now. (Please refer to her books for more info)

The train attendant came to the carriage to give the ticket back and take her token. Great I can keep my ticket (for the time being at least….).

We just passed through Damxung, I saw armed police on the platform! We carried on towards Lhasa, the scenery is still very pretty. We were alongside the Friendship Highway racing with a small mini-bus, with its passengers we were waving at each others. Outside I saw Tibetan farmers cutting their crops by hand, yak grazing or standing in the middle of the road. I can’t believe my train trip is almost over. I suddenly spotted the span bridge over the Kyichu River (Lhasa River). It is one of the landmarks on this line, the bridge has a lengh of 928 meters, it was designed to look like a yak. The main span is 108m. I am arriving in Lhasa once the forbidden City, the ancient capital of Tibet! As the train approached the station I saw the Potala Palace on the horizon, what a great first view of the city!

During the construction of this railway line a lot of people have to be re-settled and lost their home, yes the railway line has some benefits to Tibet but caused damages as well. We could open a debate on the goods and bads, but I won’t right now. The main benefit is that trade is easier for both Tibetans and Han Chinese, the main disadvantage is that yes Tibetan culture will not be the same and some people have to move home. Now there are 8 trains a day in each directions to and from Lhasa station and 3 trains carrying goods.

The train pulled into the newly built station in the outskirts of Lhasa, the train stopped, I could see the cleaning staff all aligned on the spotlessly clean platform. It was time to leave my travelling companions.  I was impressed by their respect for a foreign women, but in China the punishement for rape is … death! It took me about 44 hours to complete this journey! I think taking the train is so much better than flying, it gives your body time to adjust to the altitude as well.

I exited the station where a security guard took my ticket away, I could not believe it, it was my best souvenir, I really wanted to keep it! Well there is nothing I can do, I followed the way out when once outside, in the chaos with smiling taxi drivers and other people I spotted the guy holding a sign with my name.

His name was Soonam, he will be our guide for our tour. He called the driver to stop by the side, we put everything in the car, started but a policeman stopped us because we should not have stopped here, he did not want to hear excuses and asked the poor driver to pull on the side. I think he got a fine or something like that. I felt sorry for him! Before we started Soonam offered me the Kathak. It is a thin white silk scarf which is presented as a greeting present, ceremonial occasions, or offered at monasteries. Sometimes it is also spelled Kathak. I felt really touched by it, I felt welcome as we drove towards the city he gave me the number 1 rule: “there are lots of army and police officers around, what ever you do, “DO NOT TAKE PHOTOS OF THEM!” We drove passed the Potala Palace, it was amazing, then we pulled into the Yak hotel car park. It was very pretty. I rested for a while, then went down to pay for my tour whit all my Yuans.

My first encounters with the Tibetans went really well, Soonam was right, the army is at every street corner. In the evening I went to eat at the Tibetan restaurant across the street. I chose Yak meat with potatoes, it was very spicy!  I went back to the hotel, then went to sleep after taking a nice bath at the hotel! Before going to sleep I watch the Para-Olympic games on TV, in Chinese of course.  The hotel was very comfy I did not expect it, in the welcome pack there was a notice on these kind of lines to shorten it ” It’s forbidden to prostitute, abuse drug, and gamble!”

Chapter 4

Lhasa

Lhasa the capital of Tibet means “God’s Land” or the “Palace of Deity” in Tibetan. Lha meaning God. Lhasa rose to prominence as an administrative center in the 7th century when Songten Gampo (king of Tibet 620-649) moved his capital there and built a palace on the site now occupied by the Potala.  He established the Tubo Kingdom. The temples of Ramoche and the Jokhang were also established at this time to house the Buddha images brought as dowries by Songten Gampo’s Nepalese and Chinese wives. The rule of the Yarlung Kings from their new capital lasted some 250 years, Buddhism did not really take hold until the rule if Trisong Detsen (755-797) when Samye was established. Lhasa changed a lot since it is under the Chinese rule with the construction of many building with a modern style.

The town is located at the northern bank of the Lhasa River also known as the Kyichu River, it has an elevation of 3658 meters. The city covers an area of 30000 square Km.  Around 150000 people live in the city in which 82% are Tibetan according to the official statistics. The town is divided into 2 parts, the old town in the east around the Barkhor where the Tibetans are in majority. The other part located in the west around the Potala is the Chinese part.

Day 8: Thursday 11 September2008

A week ahead I am on the road already. I woke up at 07.00, after a quick shower I went up to the roof terrace for breakfast, the terrace offered great views of the Potala Palace. I spent a few minutes contemplating this magnificient structure.

After that I was ready to start my day, I left the hotel to make my way to the Barkhor Square. As I turned round the street there was a check points with soldiers from the P.L.A. (People’s Liberation Army). They were at every street corners, at every entrance of each street I could see 3 or 4 of them.  The atmosphere was a bit oppressive. They are all in combat uniform with guns in their arms, with the exception of a few officers wearing a nice kaki uniform. All of them have batons and riots shields as well. Most of the soldiers looked really yong as well. This is six months after the March riots, later the guide told me that they were always there and will stay here until the end of the Olympics. My guess is that they will never go, may be the government will reduce the amount of manpower, but they are to stay.  It will be later confirmed by another guide.

The 14th March riots (the version told by a leader in the Tour Agency) started with some Monks of Ramoche Temple demonstrating without authorisation in the market street. They wanted to protest against the Han Chinese colonisation amongst other things. Demonstrating without an authorisation is illegal in China. It is their policy and can be open for arguments, but this is the way it is. The police arrived to sorts things out. At the same time, coincidence or not; an argument started in the same street between a Tibetan store holder and a Chinese customer. The police who was around got involved and things got overheated. Someone burned the police car as a form of protest; from here everything started to go wild. People throwed stones, burn shops, lootin… Other demonstrations started near the Barkhor area as well. Shops and cars were burned down (mainly Han Chinese owned), the police strated shooting at the crowds…I saw scares of the riots myself in Lhasa, as some places are just pile of rubbles. The police restricted mouvements in and out of major monasteries in Lhasa.

There were provocations from both sides. Also during that time, some monks of Sera Monastery attacked the local police station. Fights started everywhere in the city, but mainly in the Tibetan area. The army instored check points in the streets and entry was permitted only to residents,  that rule was lifted later, but the army is still there with a strong presence. Later everybody tried their best not to upset the other party. According to the official records 18 people have died, but the real number is yet unknown. Some people said it was a lot more and least 100 people died. (Tibetans and Han Chinese included) It only lasted mainly for one afternoon but things were really bad! The hotel was imposed a cerfew, and people were locked in, there were not allowed to go outside. Some guides and drivers were unable to go home.

I continue my way and reached the Barkhor Square where I also saw the local police in scruffy blue uniforms. Barkhor means Eight Corners Street. It is in some what remains of the city’s original appearance. I had my first view of the Jokhang Palace, it was very nice! The gilded roof was very impressive; I can’t wait to visit it later during my trip. My eyes were driven towards The Dharma Wheel flanked by either side with two deers (also called Wheel of Law). This symbol is seen on almost every temples in Tibet. It symbolises the teaching of Buddha a and his first sermon which he gave in the Deer Park in Benares(India). On the Barkhor square there were stalls vending mainly prayer flags. I was watching the pilgrims making their way to the Jokhang most of them probably walk days to reach that point. Barkhor Square is a large plaza which was renovated in 2000, before that it was infested with rubbishes and rats. At the entrance of the Jokhang, I turned left and started to do the circuit around the Jokang Palace called “The Barkhor”, the act of accomplishing the circuit is called a Kora. The Kora is a clockwise pilgrimage around a holy site such as a temple, monastery, mountain or a lake. This circuit is the most famous in Lhasa’s pilgrimage and is the best introduction to a new visitor to Lhasa. The Kora must be done clockwise.

I entered the Barkhor circuit, or the Kora letting myself dragged by the flow of pilgrims. All along the way there were merchants of everything, jewellery, clothes (Chinese and Tibetans), Tibetan aprons with stripes of colours, pots, dishes, singing bowls, prayers flags… and other oddities. I also saw some turquoise and corals (fake) in which the Tibetans are very found of. I see many of them wearing it in their hair. Street vendors kept calling me for me to buy their products, most of it is junk I have to admit. I  turned to a street where there were mainly vendors of Yak butter where a rancid odour could be smelled. I saw some army patrols going the wrong way around the Barkhor, as well in which the locals must feel upset about. Pilgrims continue to flow around turning their prayer wheels called Manikhor. Turning the Manikhor means that the person has read all the Buddhist scriptures inside the wheel. But it is also a way for the illiterate people to say the prayers as they turn the wheel is like if they are saying the prayers as the wheel spins. I also noticed that most people are wearing surgical mask on their mouth, it is to protect others if they are sick, but also to protect them from the dust and pollution of the city. As I continue to follow the pilgrims smiling at them and saying Tashi Deleh, they responded to me with a big smile as well as a Tashi Deleh. For my first Kora I decided not to stop in the shops along the circuit or the monasteries on the side, I will make the stops later on my second circuit. The atmosphere is really nice and friendly, it is like stepping back in time.

Street vendors kept calling me to attract my customs, I will have a better look later. Right now I just want to sample the Barkhor atmosphere, know the Tibetans and and their customs. I was still swept along with the flow of pilgrims. I noticed that a lot of people had scruffy and dirty clothes but it was a pleasure to see some locals wearing the traditional dress, a man had Tibetan boots with a pointed curled at the toe end, seeing some monks in their Burgundy read dress. Some women are covered in jewellery, bracelets, earrings, and turquoise or corals dreadlocks in their hair. The Tibetans were smiling a lot more than the Han Chinese. A man approached me with a type of dagger he pulled out of his jacket, he wanted to sell it to me, I was not interested at the time so I politely refused. The Barkhor really has everything to please the Pilgrim or the passing tourist.

I was reaching the end of my Kora and almost was back to where I started, I was back near the entrance of the Jokhang, the crowds got bigger. I saw pilgrims wearing padding prostrating themselves with devotion in front of the temple. The padding is there to protect themselves when repeatedly performing this ritual. The Jokhang is the first Buddhist place of worship in Tibet, the most sacred place. I observed the pilgrims prostrating, the act of prostrating is also called Kyangcha is to show the devotion with the body and the soul. They joined hands touching his chest, their forehead, then the mouth, then the heart, then people go to the floor by first putting their knees and hands on the ground and later stretch their all body on the floor, then join hands together stretching out and start the whole process again. Some people will have walk miles prostrating themselves all the way to a sacred site such as the Jokhang. The Barkhor circuit is around 800 meters.

I left the Barkhor circuit and walked inside the maze of small cobbed streets inside the Tibetan area, my first experience in Lhasa was amazing, despite the heavy military presence, I was happy with the atmosphere of the Barkhor. I was told that the police is there because it is a major tourist site and it is for the benefits of everyone. (Really? May be for the authorities to keep a close eye on the locals?) The Tibetan area was very nice, children came to me wanted to communicate. Tibetan houses are only 2 storeys high, anything higher than the Jokhang or the Potala will be considered as blasphemous. No buildings are allowed to rival the height of the Jokhang and the Potala. All the houses are painted in white with a wooden coloured frame around the door. The small windows are divided into different panels as well. After a while I reached a busy street and decided to rest for a while. As it was my first day in altitude I should take it easy.

Some pilgrims invited me to join them, I did not know where I was, or either where they were going, but having a taste for adventure I decided to join them for the experience. I was trying to communicate by saying who I was and where I came from, they were eager to look at my phrase book. Passed the presentations, I continued to walk with them. They were four women all dressed in Tibetan style wearing the stripped apron, a black dress, a silk shirt and a white hat.  They walked as they turned a manikhor (prayer wheel). To my surprised after a few minutes, as by magic the Potala appeared in front of me, perched on its hill. I did not planned to go that far today, but I was there accompanied by pilgrims, it was a nice experience. I wanted to enjoy the sight, take my time to see this beautiful building, so I tried to explain to them I wanted to stay there. I said my good byes, and they carried on probably to accomplish the Kora of the Potala. The sight, especially the first one of the Potala is unique, I could some power coming out of this building.  It was really majestic with its red and white facade, it was huge, a marvel! Some Chinese tourists were excited about the view as well, how ironic, when a generation before them try so hard to destroy it! The Potala Palace was saved during the Cultural Revolution thanks to the first minister who did not want this palace to be detroyed. A lot of ancient scriptures, texts, paintings are stored here.

I walked to the small green area on the Potala Square to have a different view, here pilgrims were prostrating themselves as well. I walked up to the viewing point on a small hill facing the Potala Palace, I had to pay 2 yuans for it. The view was very nice actually! There was stupas as well with the Potala in the background it made a nice photo. The Potala was facing a busy boulevard, what a change comparing to just only 60 years ago.

I made my way to  the entrance of the Potala Kora, the pilgrim circuit encircling the Potala Palace. The circuit was continuous with prayers wheels fixed to its outside walls, here as well there were merchants, one of them wanted me to buy washing powder! But Yak butter, anything could be found as well, there were fewer shops than the Barkhor. I continued the Kora spinning the wheels to divert into the Lukhand Park, where I could see the unusual view of the back of the Potala. There was a small lake, on the lake there was a small island with a temple. When I reached the island it was Lukhang Temple, it was very pretty.

The Lukhang temple facing the back of the Potala Palace on the lake is dedicated to Naga, or water dragons, it dates from the 17th century being built by the 6th Dalai Lama. The inside of the temple was pretty with nice paintings on the walls. I exited the temple and took a seat under a tree after buying myself a drink which I drank in one go as I was so thirsty. I chatted to some locals, when make the decision to walk back to the hotel.

I reached the Yak hotel 15 minutes later, I rested  for a little while the made my way to Ramoche Temple. The temple is located in the north of the Tibetan area. It was built in 641by the princess  Kongjo Wencheng, it was built to the dedication of the image of Jowo Rimpoche (Buddha Sakyamuni). Later the image was removed and taken to the Jokang. It is the second most important temple in Lhasa. Many relics are still kept here. Next to Ramoche there was a smaller temple, but lots of kids were begging with a great insistence on my way out, the poverty was unbelievable. I saw kids and adults as well urinating in the middle of the street.

I went back to the hotel, where I saw the German couple Eva and Florian who will join me on the tour. I came back out and went to see some small monasteries around my hotel, my first port of call was Tsome Ling, but it was closed, I only see some locals at the entrance turning the huge prayer wheel, then I walk to Shide Traksang which lays in bit of ruins. I continue my wondering off in the Barkhor area when I reached the Tromsikhang Market, it was a covered area selling everything, the yak meat was well in the open, a hygiene inspector would have died as no refrigiration was on offer. A rancid smell came from the yak butter area, yak butter comes in a big block. There were other areas dedicated to vegetables, cakes, sweets and household products. The atmosphere was nice, but because of the smell I found it difficult to stay longer so after buying a few sweeties, I made my way out and continued my walk.

I reached Rabtse Temple, the monk was very nice so I try to speak to him, I left my Tibetan phrase-book at home, so I I had only my Lonely Planet with me, when I took my book out of my bag, the monk grabbed it and run on the other side of the temple to read it. He was fascinated by it, I had the Dalai Lama preface by a post it in case my bag would have been inspected by the authorities, and show him what he wanted to see, the monk then said a prayer and the name of Chenresig to which the Dalai Lama is the reincarnation. The monk then run to the altar and put holly water and book touch the white silk scarf, the Kathak and said a prayer a again, I was watching him blessing my book, I just did not know what to do or say! I probably made his day when he saw my book! The monk gave me an apple as well. He kept making signs of thank you towards me.  It was very emotional, I literally cried on my out. It was such an emotive moment!

In the evening I went to have dinner with the Germans at the same restaurant I went in before, this time, I tried the yak tongue, it was delicious!

I was supposed to take it easy today, but I have done a lot, but I had a great day. I am eager to see tomorrow!

Day 9: Friday 12 September 2008

During the night, I have heard some shouting in the street, so I got up to check what it was, it was an army squad passing under my window and walking down the boulevard. I first woke up at about 06.30, I could hear the rain coming, what a shame! Later I met the 2 Germans for breakfast at 08.30.

At 09.30 we left the Yak hotel for Drepung Monastery, it took us about 20 minutes in the Land cruiser to cross Lhasa, Drepung was about 5KM away.

Soonam went to buy the tickets as we were putting our rain jackets on, then we started to walk up the path to the monastery. I saw a prayer wheel activated by a fountain. The monastery is perched on hill offering views over the city of Lhasa. Drepung was built in 1416 and is the largest monastery in the Gulupa sect. In 1641 it housed over 10 000 monks. Drepung became an important centre of political power and housed the Dalai Lama before the construction of the Potala Palace. There originally 7 Dratsangs or colleges each with its own rules. But it eventually converted into four. Today there are less than 500 monks living here.

Photos were allowed inside, but visitors must pay a fee to the monks of around 20RMB per chapel.

We first enter the Ganden Palace; the assembly hall was nicely decorated with statues of gods and other religious artefacts, musical instruments such as drums and horns. There is a row of low tables on seats for the monks to pray. We moved on to other chapels, it was amazing, full of life with pilgrims visiting the temple and chanting monks or reading scriptures as part of their daily routine. It was very enlightening, the burning Choeme, or yak butter lamps gave a special atmosphere to the chapels. I bought a bracelet to a monk for 5RMB.

We moved on to the Tchokchen where we saw the main assembly hall, it is the largest building of Drepung monastery. Inside the hall there are 108 columns; most of them adore a Thangkas. A Thangka is a hanging painting depicting Buddhist themes and scenes from a legend. They are framed with a silk brocade. They were originally designed to be used as religious items, but now are so popular that now they portray the very essence of Tibetan art. There are rows of low cushions where on some of them monks have left their burgundy red and yellow hats on it.

Inside the main hall I could also see a huge statue of the present Buddha Sakyamuni (also spell Shayamuni). Historically Buddhism was founded in Nepal by Siddharta Gautama (563-483BC), a prince of the Shkya clan. Because of prophecies made at his birth; his family carefully sheltered him from the realities of the world. Shocked to realise the enormity of suffering most human being experience, the young Siddharta left his family to travel and study. After many years he was still not satisfied and did not find the answer he sought. He started meditation under a Bodhi tree, he eventually attained enlightenment. He founded an order of monks and preached hid ideas for the next 40 years until his death. His followers referred him as Sakyamuni; the sage of the Sakyas. However the Buddha was not and is not a single historical individual, there are innumerable Buddhas.

Outside the main hall we had great view over Lhasa, including of the Railway station which have a striking resemblance with the Potala Palace (not as high obviously!).

We  went to see The Jamyang Choeje cave where the founder of Drepung Monastery is meditated, here he monk can give you blessing by hitting you with a holly Iron Rod. (Gently of course!)

It was the end of our visit of Drepung; on my way out I bought a prayer wheel. We went back to the hotel at 12.30

At 15.00 we left the hotel and made our way to Sera Monastery, the visit was very quick as only one hall was opened to visitors.  The Monastery was built in 1419. The main hall was very nice with huge Thangkas and a lot of other religious artefacts. We saw again the 4 Guardian Kings (Guardians of the four directions). The Guardian Kings are also called Lokpalas, Vaishravana is the yellow king of the north, he is also the god of wealth. Dhritarastra, the white king of the east, he has a lute to calm the tourmented soul. Virudhaka, the blue king of the south which is armed with a demon defying sword. and Virupaksa the red king of the west who carries a snake for power over evil and a stupa for wisdom.

In the evening we went to see a Tibetan Dance dinner show, it was nice to see the typical Tibetan costumes.

Day 10: Saturday 13 September 2008

As no cars were available, we left the Yak hotel at about 08.30 with a taxi to go to the Potala Palace. It was raining like mad!

The Potala Palace towering over Lhasa is the landmark of Tibet.  The Potala is perched on Marpo Ri or Red Hill at the western end of Lhasa. Potala means “The Palace where Avalokiteshvara Lives” of whom the Dalai Lama is the embodiment. Avalokiteshvara  was the Bhuddha of compassion and is the Political and Religiious head of the country.

Little remains of the original structure built by Songten Gampo other than its foundations. After Lhasa was reinstated as the capital of Tibet in the 17th Century, the 5th Dalai Lama began construction of the white palace (built 1645-53) employing 7000 workers and 1500 artisans. It functioned as the traditional seat of the Tibetan government and the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas. The Red Palace is attributed to the regent Desi Sangye Gyatso and was completed in 1693. Dalai Lama V died in 1682, his death was concealed by the regent, enabling completion of the construction without the distraction of political upheaval. Altogether the palace is 13 storeys, among the world’s tallest building until the 20th century skyscrapers and contains approximately 200 000 statues, 10000 shrines, Tangkas, paintings… in 999 rooms.

The Potala is 119 metres high from top to bottom. The Potala measures 350 metres from east to west and 270 metres from north to south. The complex is 130000 metres squares. The walls are 2.75 metres thick and reinforce with copper, it is said they are built to resist earthquakes. No nails were used in the building.

At the entrance, the security guards asked us for our passports which we did not have, at the end they let us go. We had to pass through a security search area like the airport, no liquids, no weapons… Then under the rain we started the slow climb to the entrance of the Palace along the wide zig zag steps. Along the way there was another kiosk to check to the tickets, the climb up again. It was not really busy, was it because of the weather? At least we reached the Palace and we sheltered for a short while, we continued until we arrived in a court yard called Deyang Shar, from here we saw The White Palace also named Potrang Karpo once inside we reached Nyiwo Shar Ganden, it was the Dalai Lama leaving quarters, it was left almost untouched since the 14th Dalai Lama left in in 159. We saw the audience chamber as well as the prayer room. We saw seats of others Dalai Lamas as well. I also remember seeing a gilded Mandala. We continue through the maze of painted walls.

At one stage we left the White Palace from its roof to enter the Red Palace ( Potrang Marpo) where the Buddhas are worshipped. We saw the tombs of the former Dalai Lamas in the Serdung Dzamling Gyenchick Chapel,  the stupas were really amazingly huge, the one dedicated to the 5th Dalai Lama is 14 metres high and is decorated with 3700Kgs of gold as well jewels and other precious stones. I asked the estimated price to guide, he could not answered as it is difficult to evaluate but he said at least 5 billion $!!!  The 5th Dalai Lama unified Tibet.

The stupa of the 13th Dalai Lama was also impressive.  The 13th Dalai Lama was loved by its people because he has done a lot to improve the conditions of living through many reforms and Tibet a long period of peace and prosperity. Along the main hall we saw other chapel with very nice religious artefacts and other stupas. There so many symbols, paintings, stupa it is difficult to assimilate all of them, it really blows your mind! Some of the religious relics were hidden in dusty corners and put away on selves and seems to be forgotten about.

In the Potala Palace all rooms are equipped with fire detection as well as movement sensors in case a visitor will venture where he should not. There were lots of security guards and soldiers around but no monks to be seen apart from one. Many of the rooms are closed to visitors as well.

Before leaving the Potala, we admired the view over Lhasa, I saw The Lhasa Railway bridge in the distance, it is a shame is raining to visit such an impressive sight. I had mix feeling about my visit of the Potala, on one side I was very impressed with all the treasures, gems, stupas… I have seen, it was splendid, with just that Tibetans must be so proud of their culture. On the other side, it was lacking of life, I did not see any monks, it was sad to the Dalai Lama quarters empty, there was no soul here. But still now exciting the Palace you still feel power coming out of this building. Alexandra David-Neel the first female European to enter Lhasa once said that Lhasa would be nothing without the splendor of the Potala…

On the way out I left the others, I wonder off to see the statues of the Golden Yaks about 5 minutes walk from the Potala. It was erected in 1991 to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the “Liberation of the Tibetans”.

I also went to see the Palhalupuk monastery; it was built during the King Songtan Gampo’s time in the 7th century as he used it for his retreat.  It is the hidden jewel of Lhasa, the inside is so nice and atmospheric, there is small cave with some rock carvings over 1000 years old. At the centre of the temple there is a statue of Sakyamuni, in the back of the temple hidden there is small statue of Palden Lhamo the goddess protector of Lhasa. This temple is really a gem; I talked a bit with the monk at the entrance. I made my way upstairs, there is also a smaller cave. I found a monk reciting mantras, he was almost not breathing in between, amazing. From the terrace I also had great view of the Potala Palace, much better than the one from the Yak hotel, I have to leave now but I will come back here tomorrow and take my time to enjoy this temple. I feel really at peace here!

After that I walk back to the hotel stopping by the supermarket to stock up on food and drinks. I rested for a while in Yak Hotel after buying my lunch.

At 15.00 we met again to walk to the long awaited Jokhang Temple, the Jokhang is most sacred and active temple in Tibet. It is less impressive than the Potala but does neet to for pilgrims to express their devotion. It has a history of over 1400 years, the construction started in 647. It was founded by Bhrikuti, King Songten Gampo’s Nepalese bride on a site chosen by his other wife Wengheng a Tang dynasty Princess as the principal geomantic power place in Tibet. By consulting astrological charts, she was told to construct the temple on this site reclaiming the land of the Othang Lake. She brought a statue with her to Tibet from China, the King was very impressed that he wanted a special chapel built for the statue, The statue was called the “Jowo”, a treasured statue of the Buddha Siddartha Gautama known in Tibet as Sakyamui. Jokhhang means “The shrine of Jowo”. Jowo means precious one in Tibetan. The outside was filled with pilgrims prostrating themselves as the Jokhang is their ultimate destination.

We entered the inner courtyard called Kyarmra Chenmo. We first walked past a small side chapel with 5 dieties on the the left, they looked fearsome and on ur right there is 3 othe deities with a kinder look. We entered the inside of the temple it was a marvel srtiking me! What a shame we are not allowed to take photos inside! It was full of life some pilgrims were murmuring prayers and some monks were praying in the hall. The only light of the temple was coming from the yak butter lamps. They are constantly refilled from the donation of yak butter from the passing pilgrims.  We walk around clockwise, there is a few chapels dedicated to various founders in the Tibetan Buddhism’s, at one stage I saw a statue of Avalokitesvara the thousand arms Buddha with 11 faces.

We turned round a corner were we saw a pillar against the wall with a hole inside. People were putting their ear to listen to something, the legend says that if you can ear a song of a bird, you have rich entlightenment and have a very good karma. I tried; I did not hear anything… apart from the people moving around in the temple.

We moved on to the most important part of the temple, the chapel house the statue of Buddha Jowo Sakyamuni (also written Shakyamuni), here it was more crowded as the crowds move more slowly. A strong spiritual power was emaning from that statue, a golden power! The statue was adorned with the white prayer scarf, the Katak. The pilgrims are truly devoted Sakyamuni is really sacred in Tibet. This statue is the ultimate goal for the Tibetan Pilgrims. It is said that the statue of the Jowo Sakhyamuni represents him when he was 12 years old, the legend of its construction said that the statue was built in India and the young Prince Siddharta was the mode. The king of India gave it to the Chinese emperor. So the statue travelled from India to China, and then from China to Tibet. The statue is in very good shape considering how old it is; it was also decapitated during the Cultural Revolution. It is constantly restored. In here there was a second test for your Karma image, a small mirror, you see yourself not blurred you have a good karma, the image is blurred, well too bad, you have a bad karma. Coming out our guide spoke to a monk, well hidden above the temple away from the visitor’s sights stands a small statue of Buddha, he asked to see it, so at the same time we joined him.

There was a wall painting depicting the legend of a goat who filled the lake with earth, making it possible to built the Jokhang and shows how King Songtesen Gampo came to built the Jokhang. He threw his ring into air saying he will built a temple where ever the ring will fell. When the ring fell into the lake, a stupa rose from its bottom my magic. The goat filled the lake with earth to built the temple.  On the painting the lake is in the middle of the painting while the stupa is at the centre. On the left you can see the Bhudda beeing transported from China as well as the Potala in the background. The Jokhang really lived up to its name, it was an enriching experience.

Our visit continued by climbing some steep steps to reach the roof of the Jokhang. It was amazing to see the gilded roof with the Wheel of Law (Dharma Wheel) and other ornaments. The roof offered splendid views over the Barkhor Square and the Potala Palace. There was also a shop selling souvenirs I bought a book and golden card with my Chinese sign on it (The Ox). The visit to the Jokhang was really amazing; it was a marvel, so rich! I loved it!

The visit of the Johkang was very enlightening, still under the charm of the sight of the Jokhang, I made my way to the blind school “Braille without borders”, the school was founded in 1998 by a young blind German. I was met by her as she gave me a visit. She told that at the beginning blind children where often kept lock up and regarded as stupid, with her school, it offers possibility for some blind children to get a normal life, but infortunatley there are not enough beds to please every one. Children become blind because of the sun ultra violets, but as well with the smoke from the indoor fire causing infections to the eye. Sabrina was really amazing, she knows where she is going, and is very determined, I admire her courage! The school mainly subsist on donations.

In the evening I saw Catherine at the reception, she told us that in fact the British couple we were waiting never made it out of the country as they did not get a Chinese Visa. Despite being sent a fake itenary and told to be “economical with the truth”, they refused to lie to the Embassy and put Tibet on their application form, so their visa were refused. So they are still in London, it is unbelievable some people will always think they know better! They never listen. For me as far as I was concern it is great news, as we are still leaving with 2 cars, so one driver one guide at the front and on the back the 2 Germans in one car, a guide and myself in the other! The staff were all promised jobs, so that’s why they all coming with us even without the other couple. Also a guide has proper paperwork… the other does not. It is a long story which I will explain at the end.

In the evening I went out for dinner.

Day 11: Sunday 14 Sepetember 2008

Today is our free day on Lhasa. I woke up about 08.30, I was feeling good and I was eager to go out, so I took my shower and went for breakfast. At about 09.45, I left the hotel to change my money in a shop I spotted before, but in fact they don’t change money any more, therefore I walked to the Bank of China office I saw the day before, but the office was closed as it was being refurbished. I went back to the Yak hotel to change my money in the hotel shop, the exchange rate is not as good as the Bank Of China, but it  is only a difference of about 20RMB at the end of the day. I left the Yak hotel for the second time to make my way to the Barkhor, on my way I saw a nice scarf, so I bought it for my mum, as I did not want to carry it all day long, and being close to the hotel, I went back to drop it in my room, and left the hotel for the 3rd time. I left again to walk around the Barkhor, as I arrived in front of the Jokhang; I wanted to take photos of Pilgrims, and here disaster stoke; my camera was not working, I though he could not come from the battery as I re-charged it during the night, I made my way back to the hotel to investigate. I change the battery as now it was working, for the fourth time in less then 30 minutes I passed the army check point again when I realised I left my sunglasses in the bedroom, so I walked back to the Yak hotel, 5 minutes later for the 5th time smiling at the army check point I finally managed to made it to the Barkhor square with everything I needed for the day. If someone was following me; he must have wondered what I was up to!

I bought a bracelet made with corals and turquoise, and done another Kora but taking my time looking at the stalls and shops. A Brazilian TV crew was here and wanted to interview me about my experience of Lhasa. It seems like every time I travel I am TV (Peru, St Pierre et Miquelon….)

I continue my way I stopped to enter the Meru Nyingba Monastery (well hidden). I met a nice monk and after I made a small donation; I obtain his permission take a few photos. It is the nicest small temple I have ever seen in Lhasa. I saw a few more along the way. I completed my Kora. The experience was still amazing, you just let yourself being carried away with the flow of pilgrims. I walk back to the hotel to have lunch and relax a bit

After a nice lunch I left the hotel again to go back towards the Potala area, once in the Chinese part there were fewer soldiers around. I really wanted to see Palhalupuk temple again, it was such amazing! (See my previous entry) I sat down next to the monk armed with my Tibetan phrase book, the encounter was amazing He was eager to communicate with me and looked at my phrasebook with great interest. The cave was so amazing with all the carvings and paintings, I asked permission to take photos. It was such a great experience to communicate with him. I was especially captivated with 2 protector gods guarding the entrance of the cave; Chana Dorje and Tamdrin. I really love this temple it is a hidden gem, only few tourists ventures out here. I left the temple and pop next door to the nunnery, it was very pretty as well.

I left and made my way to the Chakpori Hill (“Iron Mountain”) to see the wall paintings. On the top of the hill which stands at 3725m there is a telecommunication mast.  It used to be the site of the Tibetan Medical College which was destroyed in 1959. I reached the entrance after 20 minutes walk. It was amazing, there are lots of prayers flags, silk scarves, there are so many carvings of Tibetan scriptures and paintings of the different deities on the rocks, I also saw small little altars with offerings. I the end I saw men carving stones, they looked surprised to see me, then under a small shed I saw the Blue Buddha, a huge painting, it was astonishing! Very beautiful.

I walk back to the hotel and bought more supplies for the trip ahead at the supermarkets, I saw a woman with small puppies, and they were really cute!

Then I went for dinner in the evening after a last stroll in the Tibetan area. Tomorrow;  we are leaving for Gyantse.

Chapter 5

Gyantse

Day 12: Monday 15 September 2008

We left Lhasa at 09.45 to drive to Gyantse. For the start with we took only one Land cruiser car, with Chumbei the driver, Wangchen the guide, the Germans and I in the back. The other car with Pubu the Driver, Soonam and Catherine will join us later as they are waiting for some paper work to come.  There was a big group of French leaving the hotel in a mini bus and some other cars with a smaller group. The left shortly before us, we could not have gone before them anyway as the bus was blocking the exit of our parked car.

Shortly after leaving Lhasa we reached an army check-point, it was to check our permits. Wangchang our guide in order to speed things up told the control that we were coming from the south of Tibet and not Lhasa. As a result we overtook everyone! We crossed Tsangpo Bridge over the Lhasa River and made a short stop. There were prayer flags on a pole in a memory of 7 people who died in an accident not long ago. I found the drivers mad in Lhasa; they will not stop even if you are crossing the road. It is up to you to navigate around. Catherine told me that per ratio of habitants in Tibet they had fewer accidents because the drivers expect other drivers not to follow any rules. They expect the unexpected unlike Europe all the time. On a European Motorway accidents pile up happens because drivers tends to “sleep” at the wheel. If someone slows down unexpectedly some driver do not react quickly enough.

After the bridge we started the slow climb to Gampa La Pass at 4794 metres (also spell Khamba La), I was on the edge of the road next to the ravine, I really hoped that the driver have good tyres! (And he did!) The roads was winding its way through the mountain. We overtook a truck in the middle of climb. The truck was really on the edge! The climb was really impressive! We climbed almost 1000 metres in altitude. On the “Cycle in Tibet” tours, they do go on this road, well good for them but not with me!

Shortly before we reached the top, we encountered another one of the Chinese rules, now in order to enjoy the view, cars must buy tickets. Tickets in our pockets we arrived on the Gampa La Pass at 4794 metres. The prayer flags welcome us, and as the car turned I saw the beautiful Yamdrok Yumtso sacred Lake. It was lovely the water was a beautiful turquoise colour! This colour gave its name to the lake. The soul of Tibet is believed to reside here. The lake covers an area of 638 square kilometres.

As soon we got off the car, we were faced with aggressive vendors of  wanted to pose for photos with their yaks, or Tibetan Mastiff dogs. They kept getting on your way. I managed to sneak a photo from far away. I was disapointed with their aggressive manners. I know it is way for them to get money, but after paying for a ticket; you do not expect to be faced with that.

I walk around the area for a bit enjoying the view of the lake,;it was really nice to see such Turquoise blue water! On the other side of the lake, next to shadows but still in the sunlight, I saw a small village. No more trees could be seen! On the side of the pass there was a stone marking the pass written in Chinese with the altitude, a Tibetan mastiff dog was asleep at the bottom, I took a photo of the stone, but then a the Tibetan owner ran after me demanding money to the Dutch couple next to me and myself. Before I could say anything the guy told the dog owner: “well take him away from the stone then!” and walked away, I soon followed them. The couple were in the same hotel as us in Lhasa. We saw the car arriving with Catherine and the other driver as we were leaving. We stopped and had a quick chat. We went back into the cars and started our drive down towards Nargatse, we climb down was less spectacular than the way up but still very pleasant!

We crossed over a grazing land where we saw some yaks and horses. Catherine’s caught up with us so we stopped again. The drivers had a quick cigarette break again then I was invited to join the car. So from now Pubu is my driver with Catherine at the front with her coffee jug, water bottle, yak cheese, chocolate, loo roll, anything needed… basically. On the back, Soonam also Dun Dup and myself.

We stopped at Nargatse for lunch.

We started to climb to reach Karo La pass at 5045 metres. Here we saw some locals seeking our money as well.  The view over the glaciers of Nojin Gangzang (7191 metres) was amazing! On the pass there also a small stupa with prayers flags, but the most unusual was a public toilet!

Leaving the Karo La pass behind us, we rejoined the Turquoise Lake, the views were really amazing! It was breath taking! We are not very far from the border with Bhutan, on a clear day we can see the mountains in Bhutan.

Gyantse Dzong welcomed as our first view of the town at about 15.30, it was really a nice view! We check-in at the Jiangzi Hotel. After relaxing for a bit; I went out with Florian and Eva to explore the town and try to go to the Dzong. The town is situated on the trade routes leading to Bhutan and Shigatse the second largest town in Tibet. Gyantse is the third largest town of Tibet.

We started the climb to the Dzong, but the path was really badly damaged, at one stage the wall collapse and we would have to climb over in order to carry on. I tried to do it but later it was impossible to go through further on. We walked back down the same way we came. After a while we split up I carried-on on my own. After wondering around in the Tibetan area, I discovered a small path leading to the entrance of the Dzong, so I followed it.  A Dzong means castle or garrison in Tibetan

After a long climb, I reached the top and bought an entry ticket. The price was 30RMB.

Gyantse Dzong is an old fortress which used to accommodate the Gyantse Kings from the 14th Century. In 1904 when the British army invaded Gyantse, it was on this high ground where the Tibetans defended using their primitive weapons. The war was to last for 8 months when troops blasted the Tibetan ammunition storage. The Gyantse soldiers withstood for three more days and nights before jumping off the cliff….choosing death over surrender.

There was a small exhibit showing how Tibetan life was during the feudal period. Later on The Prince of Dharma Hall with a nice fresco on the wall. I saw a small sign “Jum off the cliff” with arrow pointing to the edge of the cliff, I wonder if any people have actually done it! The top of the Dzong offered great views over Gyantse, a storm was approaching fast! I saw a monument which was erected in the memory of the Gyantse soldiers who fell to their death. On the side was view of the magnificent Gyantse Kumbum and the Pelkor Chode Monastery which we will visit tomorrow. It started raining so I ran to an empty building to seek cover. I waited for about 20 minutes, it was really a big storm, hail stones were coming down! When it calm down I walk toward the exit, but it started again, I ran down the steep steps but by the time I reached cover I was already soaking wet! I miss the Museum “Anti British”, but I rather go back to the hotel and dry myself.

After drying myself up, I went for dinner in a restaurant called Zhuang Yuan, it was Chinese owned but the chef was really funny. He showed me his guest books and he is a master in cooking The Seewt and Sour chicken as he showed me photos with great pyrotechnic methods.

I did not see Florian and Eva since I left them!

Day 13: Tuesday 16 September 2008

We left the hotel at about 09.30 after loading our bags in the cars. We drove to Gyantse Monastery. At the entrance some monks were checking our tickets. It is rumored that their job is not only checking the tickets of tourists Chinese or Westeners but also spiying.  We started our visit with the Pelkor Chode Monastery.

The main building of the Pelkor Chode is the Tsuklahang. It was built in 1418-25 by the 2nd Prince of Gyantse Rapten Kunsang Phapa.

At the entrance; instead of the usual  paintings of the four Guardian Kings, I was greeted with their statues.

The Tormas were very impressive, and so nicely decorated! Tormas are sculptures made out of Tsampa (flour, yak butter and tea). It gave such a special atmosphere to the place. The inside of the monastery was a bit dark, this mainly due to the lack of natural light in order to protect the mural paintings. However these murals have been covered in a small black coating coming from the yak butter lamps. I saw some Chinese officers in their green uniforms visiting the temple a few yards away from us. It was weird to see them here!  At the rear of the temple was a small chapel with Sakyamuni.  There were other small chapels around the temple as well with masks and Tangkas. Wangchen was playing with old costume he found abandon somewhere, he is so naughty! On the way out of one of the chapel I saw a nicely decorated door.

After visiting the Pelkor Chode we continued to the Kumbum.  The Kumbum means the Stupa of 100 000 deities. I t was built in 1427-39. Rising 37 metres high including the golden dome. The stupa has 108 gates, nine storeys and 75 chapels. Octagonal in shape, it is a unique structure in the Buddhism world. The Kumbum is a three dimensional mandala meant to portray the Buddhist cosmos. The Kumbum, like other mandalas, which are portrayed by a circle within a square, enables the devotee to take part in the Buddhist perception of the universe and can depict one’s potential as they move through it. Mandalas are meant to aid devotees on the path to enlightenment.

At the entrance we saw a  young monk; he must have been about 8. He was feeding some really lovable kittens. We enter the Kumbum where we saw a small altar and started to ascent clockwise to the first floor, yes there are paintings everywhere, and each chapel had statues depicting protector deities. The atmosphere was feeling special, even weird. We carried on up to the 6th floor where we reached the “roof” of the stupa where the eyes are painted. From here we had great views over the Dzong and the city. The access to the above floors were locked.

I wished we had more time to visit the Kumbum, you could easily spend a day in here! The drivers and Catherine were waiting for us outside, when we came out we saw a child begging mainly towards Catherine for some reasons, Catherine was saying “I am not giving you anything into your filthy hands little man!”. The problem that if you give them money like a Mao or 1 Yuan, it helps them but it gives them more encouragement to beg more and skip school.

We left Gyantse to drive to Shigatse.

Chapter 6

Shigatse

Day 13: Tuesday 16 September 2008

We left Gyantse behind and drove to Shigatse. Along the way I saw the Tibetans tending their crops, it was mainly Barley. Very of them have tractors if any, everything is done by hand. Their cows are smaller as well comparing to the ones in Europe.

We reached Shigatse at lunch time, after dumping our stuff in the hotel; we went for lunch in a small place next to the hotel. We had a buffet lunch. Shigatse is the second largest town in Tibet. When Karma  Tseten took power in 1565, Shigatse became the capital of Tibet. An alliance was formed with the Mongols and Lhasa captured in 1605. Following years of civil war Lhasa emerged victorious in 1642 and has remained the capital ever since. Shigatse in the seat of the Panchen Lamas. It is the most important lama after the Dalai Lama.

The hotel Gang-Gyan Orchad is located centrally and very close to the  Tashilhumpo Monastery. After lunch a small storm came in, it was pouring down, so I waited in my room before coming out. When it stopped raining, I washed my laundry.

When the rain stopped, I started my Kora, the circuit around the Monastery. From the start I saw a very nice old Tibetan Pilgrim lady who instead that I joined her on the Kora. I was feeling great by her generosity, along the way she offered me yak cheese and sweets. The yak cheese was rock solid and a dirty, knowing I do not like yak cheese I discretely put it my pocket and ate a sweet instead a long as I could. I felt really embarrassed! Bless her, she was so nice! The path was going up and she needed rest time once in a while. It was very nice to sit next to her, I was trying to speak to her, but she could not understand me. When I pointed frantically to the phrase book she made sign to say she did not know how to read. The guide told me that in Tibet around 60% of the population over 50 do not know how to read. That puts my embarrassment level much higher now! The Kora was aligned with prayers wheels, I saw some men working at one stage to repair and restore a few of them. There also nice rock painting of various Deities. We passed behind the big Tangka wall.  We sat on a small rock were I had a great view of the town and the golden roofs of Tashilhumpo.

I suddenly saw the Samdrubtse Dzong; it looked like a small Potala Palace! After being destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, it has just been restored. The lady signed me that I should turn right to continue the Kora, but she wanted to go straight on, so we said our good byes…

I turned right as she continues straight on, after a minute I changed my mind and backtrack my footsteps to follow her, she was long gone by then! I saw some small children playing in the grass. As I passed a small house; I saw a nun emerging and she called me in. It was a small nunnery, only 2 of them. They offered me yak butter tea, at the time I was not sure if I was ready for that yet, but I had to start at one point! It was not as bad as I first thought, it was even really nice! They were really happy about the contact; this phrase-book is like a bible, an Ariane string! It was really amazing! Then when I asked if could take photos, I could not stopped them, one even try to take a photo, it was very funny as did not know what to do, she was laughing so much! They loved seeing their photographs in the screen of my camera. I had a really great time it was time for me to go back, I spend almost 2 hours in there with them! I continue the Kora to town; I crossed the Tibetan area where I saw a small sheep with some kind of a collar around its neck. I had a stroll along the market as well.

On my way back to town I saw Dun-Dup and Wangchen, they told me to be careful as some time Tibetans lice your tea with poison! However most of them will provide great hospitality. I had a quick bathroom break and went to see the Chinese side of town.  I went to the supermarket to stock up, they asked me they could help me (well, I guess it what that!), so I told them in Chinese that I was just having a look. They looked at me very surprised. That’s the only thing I could say without having to look at my phrase book! On my way back, Wangchen called me and invited me in a small restaurant, he was having dinner with another friend who was also a guide. I tasted some pork dumpling. It was nice!

Off to bed now.

Day 14: Wednesday 14 September 2008

After a massive breakfast, we left the hotel to visit Tashilhumpo Monastery.

The monastery was founded by the 1st Dalai Lama in 1477. Tashilhumpo is one of the six great Gelugpa or Yellow Hat monasteries. The name Tashillhumpo means “heap of glory”.  It is the largest functioning monastery in Tibet. Now the principle buildings of the monastery date from the 17 and 18Th centuries. The monastery is also the seat of the Panchen Lamas, the second highest ranking image in the Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhist hierarchy, after the Dalai Lama. The title “Panchen” means great scholar, he is an emanation of Amitabha, the Buddha of Infinite Light. The current incarnation, the 11th Panchen Lama, is currently under house arrest at an unknown location in China, and has been dubbed ‘the world’s youngest political prisoner (he was abducted at the age of six in 1995). Now the government put another Panchen Lama to take its seat. I wonder if Tibetans knows that the Panchen Lama is not the real one, as it is a sensitive subject I refrained from telling them as some of the monks paid close attention to us in some of the chapels we saw. Today the temple houses around 700 monks, but at its height it was as much as 5000.

The start of the visit was great as our first sight was the giant statue of Buddha Maitreya. The statue was erected in 1914 by the 9th Panchen Lama. The statue measures 26.7 metres. The face is 4.2 metres, his hears are 2.8 metres and one of his nostrils could hold a person! The statue weights 279 Kg in gold and 150 tons of copper. It is the highest sitting Maitreya Buddha statue in the world. It took 900 craftsmen over 4 years to complete. I saw a delegation of Chinese Army officers visiting the temple as well.

We continued our visit with the hall of residence of the Panchen Lama and then we saw chorten of the 04th, 5th and 9th Panchen Lama.  The most beautiful was the one of the most  recent of the Panchen Lamas to die; the 10th and most well respected (Lobsang Trinley Lhündrub Chökyi Gyaltsen 1938-1989) . It is covered by 614 kg of gold, 868 precious stones and 246,794 jewels, the Stupa-tomb built in 1993 is the most splendid and costly mausoleum in China since the 1950s. We also saw a chapel devoted to Tara, the goddess who is believed to be the avatar of Avalokitesvara. A White Tara is in the middle. The white Tara keeps watch over people with her 7 eyes and helps them when they are in need.  There were also two Green Taras on each side. We crossed a courtyard covered by thousands of images of Sakyamuni in different postures and expressions. Later we entered a small chapel with the statue of Buddha Jowo Sakyamuni.

We entered the assembly hall decorated with Tangkas and statues of various deities and the throne of the Panchen Lama. Opposite the main assembly Hall there was a small viewing point where visitor could admire the gilded roof of the temple.

The highlight of the morning is when we walked down and we heard some kind of arguments. As we walked toward it; we found out that it  was the monks debating inside the shady courtyard behind the main temple. Every day, hundreds monks dressed in their Burgundy red robes assemble in small groups and practise their debating skills. It is a highly entertaining spectacle (may it is only for the tourists!), during which they strike poses, clapping, turning, and finger pointing, whooping, hollering, and throwing their prayer beads about. Among them, they argue about Buddhist rituals enjoying their debates. It was really a great experience, we were even allowed to take photos of them. I was very happy to have witness this, as we did not see the famous debating of Sera Monastery.

At the exit of the monastery there were some musicians wanted money; we politely refused. After a quick lunch I went to walk the Kora again, it was pleasant as the first time. I saw the sky burial site, but foreigners are not allowed to go there as it is a sacred site. I browsed through a few shops in town. Later I went to the small square in front of the Monastery to write my diary and read my book while enjoying the sunshine. I saw some mother taking their small children on a remote control car. The children seams to really like it! On the plaza their was bronze statues depicting foreigners, a backpaker, one with a camcorder and onother on a bike. I went back to my room and then I went for dinner. In the evening I discovered that I left my Tibetan phrase book somewhere n the Kora. If I have have to loose one thing, I rather loose this than my money or my passeport! In the evening I found a note from Catherine saying that we had lo leave at 9.00 rather than 10.30 because there was something going on in the Sakya monastery.

Chapter 6

From Shigatse to Saga

Day 15: Thursday 18 September 2008

We left Shigatse at 09.00 with the land cruiser cars for Sakya.  We reached a marker point on the Friendship Highway. We are now 5000Km from Shangai. Some kids were playing and run towards us to say hello and ask us for money.  The kids all wear scruffy clothes, it was sad to see them begging for money rather than being educated. The village was very pretty perched on the top of a hill, there was a small dzong. I could see the local men enjoying a break from the field; they were sitting down drinking tea. We left the 5000KM marker behind us and carried on; later we reached Tropu-La Pass at 4950 metres. The drivers paid their prayers at the top near the prayer flags. After enjoying their cigarette break the drivers invited us back in the Land-cruisers and we continued our way. Dun-Dup was snoring in the back of the car but unfortunately for him with Indian music that was on the list of the items banned from the car. Catherine woke him up with a gentle slap on the shoulder.

We arrived at Sakya at 11.30. After dumping our bags in our room Wangchen took us to the monastery. The monks were performing a dance dressed in silk costumes and playing drums. It was heaving; it seems that the entire village and the surrounding ones were here. All the Tibetans were dressed up in their traditional costume. It was difficult to find a good spot, but I found an opening and sat down next to Tibetan who invited me to sit on his mat. We smiled at each other. After 15 minutes the ceremony stopped for lunch, so we decided to do the same, we walk back to the hotel.

Now that my stomach got more fuel, I went back to the monastery to continue to watch the ceremony. It was even busier, everyone was pushing around. It was not easy to watch the performance!

The town of Sakya lies at 4100 metres high. It is the birthplace of the Sakyapa one of the school in Tibetan Buddhism. The particularity of this town is that most of the houses are painted dark blue with red stripes painted on it. The South Monastery where the festival is taking place also known as Lhakhang Chenmo was founded in 1268, but because of the festival interiors were closed. Sakya used to be the capital of Tibet in the 13th century when the country was under the Mongol Empire.

I decided to walk around the town for a while, I walked in the main street were I saw kids begging for my money again. Then I crossed the river I walked toward the ruins of the Northern Monastery. To my rights I saw three chortens. The North Monastery was founded in 1073 once housed 3000 monks but now lies in almost ruins. The main building still standing up was closed, but from here I had good views over the town. I continue my walk on the path; I was armed with 2 stones in my hands in case I encounter stray dogs. I was told that people got attacked by them. I saw some villagers milking their cow, their houses are really tiny. People here do not have bathrooms inside their home. I sat down on a rock to enjoy the view, it was really lovely! At one point I reached The Rinche Gang Nunnery, I saw the main doors open so I walked into the courtyard. The doors of the temple were closed as I was about to leave a nun called me and invited me in, she open the temple for me. The interior was lovely, she was very kind she gave a little necklace as well. She also allowed me to take photos. She wanted me to stay for a cup of tea, but I realised I was gone for ages without telling anyone so I show her the main monastery in town and pointed at my watch to say that I should get back as someone was waiting for me. I would I love to stay, but I wanted to see the rest of the dancing as well.

I got back into the main monastery where I saw Wangchen and the Germans. We completed the inner Kora and found a better spot. Now the monks were dancing with masks representing some animals like a dragon or a rat. It was beautiful. A Tibetan invited us to drink Chang, the local brew… dear me! It was very strong! The locals were laughing at us! We did not have the chance to visit the interiors of the Monastery but seeing the monks performing was much better! It was a unique experience, we were lucky to be there to witness these dances.

In the evening we went to a local restaurant, we saw some monks watching TV. The meal was delicious.

Day 16: Friday 19 September 2008

After nearly not waking up as I did not hear the knock on my door; we left at 08.15. We could have left earlier if we did not have to wait 35 minutes for our pre-ordered pancakes. But Hey! This is Tibet! We had to leave early because road works were taking place. I discovered that the Land-Cruisers were extremely usefull as we went up and down in  the back of the car, across a few rivers… In some ocasions the road stop existing all together. We went up a few passes as well. Now there was a lot less traffic on the “road”. We stopped by a small lake; it was beautiful.  In on of the passes we stopped for a while there was queue of Land-Cruisers!

We went down and carried on then we reached Ngamming-Tso, a beautifull lake with lots of wild birds. The lake was surrounded by mountains. We continue to drive along a dirt road, we stopped for a yak photo and a cigarette break for the drivers. The drive was very scenic. We stopped again for another photo stop where Wangchen decided to work out and do some push-ups for some obscured reasons.

At one stage we stopped to help some villagers, one of them was stuck under his small tractor who overturn. It took about 7 men to pull the tractor away, the poor man underneath was shaken but more or less Ok. I asked if he needed a lift but I was told hios friends will take him. In Tibet most of villages are equipped with some kind of a health post. We were back on the road again, I was listening to Tibetan music of Pubu’s tape.

We stopped for lunch, there were no toilets to be found, Wangchen came to look for one but told Eva and I to do behing a house, we spotted a gap between 2 walls, we decided it was the perfect spot. Obviously as not the only one as it look like we found the village toilets, it was disgusting! For lunch I had rice noodles and yack meat. Then I had terrible stomach cramps which I felt a bit earlier, well I will spare you the details. I had to go back to the toilets in an emmergency for a second time armed with some toilet paper… well it was well worth it.

We continued our way, we reached the permit check point near Saga. Catherine told me they are very strick. Despite the lovely river and mountains next to us, no photos to be taken. I was dying for the toilets but too afraid to ask as we just barely left the lunch place and we were in an army check point. It took ages.

We arrived in Saga, there was no electricity in town. The room was freezing cold. I found out to my greatest delight that I had a flashing toilet in my room. I had a military complex as  a view with a guard on a roof which I nearly missed. I guess there is no photos of that to be taken as well.  Saga is an army town and is the last point to stock up on anything before leaving to western Tibet. We are now at 4600 metres high.

With Eva and Florian we went to explore the town, I was feeling still a bit rough but fresh air and walking will do me good.Well within 5 minutes we were done, so we walk to a small place to have a drink. Not much choice but we took some Ice-Tea, it was very funny because the girl serving us gave us small glasses. Every time one of us took a sip she was refilling the glasses with a great enthousiasm. They even put a DVD for us with  a type of Tibetan “rock” music.

In the evening we went to  restaurant to have dinner, not much choice but it was Han Chinese owned. It was lucky we had our Chinese phrase-book. It took us time but we got what we wanted. The girl from the restaurant kept staring at us while we were eating. May be she was making fun of us because the way we were using the baguettes!?

At 21.45 I was in my freezing cold bed which I tried my best to warm up by putting boiling water in my trekking bottle to keep my feet warm.

Chapter 7

From Saga to Moincer

Day 17: Saturday 20 September 2008

We left Saga at 09.30. Pubu was singing along the tape.  I was also told that during the Cultural Revolution the Tibetan music was banned. We reached a pass shortly after leaving Saga.  The drive was marvellous. We stopped again at an army check point to check out permits. Special permits are also needed to enter Western Tibet.

At one stage we saw a small lake with some sand dunes. Sand dunes in Tibet! It was unbelievable!  It was near Shuo just after Drongpa where we stopped for lunch. The road now was just a dirt road mainly and was bumpy and dusty. Wangchen was of course playing in the sand dunes! It was very photogenic!

We passed Paryang usually that’s were most groups stay for the night but the guides want to push to the village of Punsum. The village is smaller and closer to where we want to go.

Now the road has disapear completely, it is “make own track” type. It is a major road in Tibet some sections over small bridges are closed because the bridge will collapse. I saw 3 army trucks coming the opposite way.

We arrived in Punsum at about 15.30, it was very small, a small house and 3 tents. We were in the middle of nowhere!  It was confirm we will spend the night with the nomad family here. We entered the house all along the wall were seating and sleeping bunks with yak wool rugs on it. In the centre was a stow. The lady offered us bread and yak butter tea. I tasted yak yoghurt but it was disgusting.

Outside a saw a sick sheep, it was clear he was dying so I raised my concern to the guide begging him to do something to end his suffering. But nothing was done the sheep spend about 18 hours if not more dying. It was very upsetting!  There were no toilets, we could go anywhere we wanted!

In the late afternoon the 3 American ladies from Cambodia joined us to get warm, they were camping just across the river. We seem to bump to each other all the time. They are vey nice!

We went for a walk above the hill next to the village the view point was very nice, we could see Machhapuchhre (fish Tail) in Nepal. On our way back we saw many cars driving by and stopping to our lodge. The guide told us it was a group of Indians. They all stay shivering in the cars eating cooking while their Tibetan guides and drivers were warming up inside. The group comes back from a Pilgrimage on Mt Kailash. Wangchen told me that Indians group comes much unprepared and as a result many of them die up here. As they eat only Indian food and refuse to eat anything else, also they do not wear appropriate clothing. In this group alone 2 of them did not make it. There are 4 of them in the back, 3 is bad enough but 4! They do not want to go sightseeing they want to do their pilgrimage as fast as possible.

In the evening we had a nice dinner. The drivers and guides sing a song for us. Now singing is like a communal activity and Tibetans will sing for any occasions. They song taking each theit turn. Everybody had to raise their glasses towards the light and when the song is finished they have to pass it to another person to sing. Then the cycle starts again until it was time to go to bed.

We will be sleeping with the nomad family inside the small house equipped with 6 bunks while the drivers, guides and Catherine will sleep inside one of the tents.

During the night I wanted to go to the toilets but it was so cold and I could hear the dogs fighting outside I descided to hold it for as long as I could.

Day 18: Sunday 21 September 2008

I did not sleep very well as I could hear the dogs barking all night, I got up at 7.00 to go the bathroom and waited for the sun to rise. I came back in to have a pancake for breakfast the n we left at 09.30.

We stopped at another check point. It was because we are very near the Indian Border and it is a disputed border. So the authorities want to check who is coming in and out.

The drive was beautiful; we saw snow on the ground. We stopped as Pubu spotted a black necked crane. A black necked crane measures about 115cm and weights between 5 and 6 Kg. The upper part of the neck and the head are black, except for a small white patch to the rear of the eye. They also have a red bald patch between the bill and the eye. The rest of the body is grey, but the legs, lower parts of the wings and the tail are black. They feed on plant roots, insects, snails, shrimp, fish, frogs, lizards, voles, and waste grains. When they land in a village they are treated with reverence. Villagers do not mind having them around.

After I took some photos, Florian started a snow ball fight with the drivers and guides it was really amusing, some cars were driving by wondering what we were up to!

We went back into the cars, we started to feel hungry, well I was! On a top of hill we were supposed to see Mt Kailash, it was so foggy that we did not see it!  We stopped for lunch on the shore of the Lake Manasarovar in Barga.

After lunch one car with Dunn Dup and Wangchen left ahead for Darchen to get some permits. I left in Pubu’s car with Eva and Florian. There was snow everywhere; the drive was difficult it was a mud bath drive! Mud was all over the windscreen.

We reach Darchen, there was snow all over. The Kora circuit was closed as it was too dangerous because of the snow on the pass. It was beautiful to see the snow. But usually the snow does not come that early. Catherine told us that of Kora might be compromised because of the snow.  We could not even see Mt lailash!

Later we reach Moincer where we will spend the night. The grandmother is typical Tibetan she is very sweet. Amazingly she plays with her mobile phone, it is really amazing. The daughter pulled out a mixer machine to prepare the yak butter tea. Now every home in Tibet is equipped with a mixer for the yak butter tea. Yak butter tea is called gurgur chai in Tibetan. Before it was prepared in a long wooden tube with a pillar. A person will have to mix it manually.

With Florian and Wangchen we climbed the hill above Moincer, the climb was hard as it was very steep, but it was very rewarding when we reach the top as the view is great! We could not see MtKailash but never mind! I found a really nice stone. Later the boys played a noisy games with stones and slapping a leather bowl with dice on the floor.

In the evening Pubu played with my torch light holder. It was funny as he wanted to offer me 6 lighters and 2 packs of cigarettes in exchange. (It could have been my best chance to make them stop smoking!!) As a joke I call Pubu “Thief!” in Tibetan and added “call the police!”. It was very funny!

Day 19: Monday 22 September 2008

We left Moincer at about 10.30 after super breakfast. After a short drive we reach Gurugyam, a Bonn Monastery. It is one of the most important Bonn Mastery in Western Tibet. I was founded in 1936 below a cave where Bon Masters meditated in the antiquity. Bon was the pre-Buddhist religion of Tibet. In the Bon religion pilgrims walk anti-clockwise in the sacred sites.

After we left Gurugyam we arrived in the old kingdom of Khyunglung. We drove along the river. The ruins dates from 2000BC and is one of the oldest in Tibet. The ruins are a complex of caves dugg into the rocks.

The best part of Khyunglung are the small hot springs, almost unknown comparing to the ones of Tirthapuri. After soaking up or feet, with Florian and Eva we went for a walk around the site. It was amazing. The area was so remote. It was the wilderness. It is amazing to see the ruins of a 4000 year old settlement.

With Eva we started to collect rubbish which we saw along the way. The small towns are not equipped with sewers and education about respect of the environment is not to our level yet. When we came back with a bag load; the drivers looked at us very surprised. They did not understand why we bothered to pick it up and probably took us for crazy tourist, or weird people.

It was nice to walk around this area, we felt at peace. We left in the cars to make our way to Tirthapuri Gompa. The rocks were white and red it was amazing! The Gompas is another major site for pilgrims. Guru Rinpoche spent some time here cleansing away his sins in the thermal waters.

We left the cars and the drivers behind and started our Kora. We first reached a prayer flags pole.  There was a cremation spot where on a pile of rocks there were old clothes and other object of dead people. From here we could see the drivers washing the car in the Sutlej River.  Wangchen stopped near a hole countaining sour earth, he told it was for medicinal purposes. Not far further along there was a same hole with sweet earth.

We had a nice view over the all complex including the Mani wall. This Mani wall is over 200 meters long. It is the result of a demon firing an arrow at Guru Rinpoche. He stopped the arrow’s flight and transformed it into this wall.

We passed a small wall with yak horns and skulls. We reached the gates of the Monastery, where Wangchen put his hand in hole and pulling out some stones, one black one white. He said his Karma was ok, if it would have 2 black stones, he would have big problems! We entered the Monastery, the monk was very tiny. He showed us the footprints of Guru Rinpoche. We continue our way passed the chortens and down towards the river. We stopped to explore a cave before arriving back to our cars. The boys were working hard towards the Tibetan car wash. They were washing the cars with the water of the river.

They were also fixing the cars, at one stage I saw Pubu smoking while lying underneath his Land-Cruiser!

We went back to our lodge in Moincer. We went for a walk in the village, the locals were very friendly. I saw Florian and Wangchen playing snooker I watch them, later Chumbei joined the party. It was amazing to think that we were playing snooker in a small village in the middle of Tibet. Most of the villagers were watching us.

We enjoy a nice evening. I was watching the lodge owner making the yak butter tea in the electric mixer. The guides and Drivers also played a card games.

Chapter 8

Guge Kingdom

Day 20: Tuesday 23 September 2008

We left Moincer to make our way to Tsamda  (Zhada in Chinese). Shortly after we left Moincer we saw some Tibetan Gazelles, it was amazing! We were in a remote area as we left the major road and ended on a dirt road. The drive was spectacular, especially when we entered the clay forest of the Mangang Valley. We had a great view over the Indian Himalayas. It was breathtaking! While enjoying a break outside the cars; I saw a nice eagle flying over us, I could almost hear him whispering “follow me, I am the master of this lost Kingdom…” The road started its descent through the gorges and the canyons, it was amazing! The clay forest was formed by erosion of water.

We made another stop to admire two special rocks standing on their own. It was getting late as since left Moincer we did not come across any village for lunch. So the driver brought some pancakes to keep us going until we reach Tsamda. Chumbei put one on his head he was really funny. The landscape was almost looking like on the moon. It was almost untouched once you leave the road. Some of the rock formation are of  indescribable beauty, with some stange shapesand stunning colours.

Before reaching the town of Tsamda we cross the Sutlej River across the newly built bridge. The Sutlej River is also called the Elephant Spring River, as rivers are named after animal by the Tibetans. To my surprise when arriving in town we saw trees. This is possible because now we descended to an altitude of  3650 metres. We are staying at the Telecom hotel.

We went for lunch in town, but because we just ate the pancakes, I was very hungry, so I did not have anything to eat. Pubu was telling to eat if not he will have to call the “food Police” referring to an evening in Moincer. It was very funny! At the end to please him I had some rice.

The great thing is that we can have hot showers for an extra 10 Yuans. Despite the water being cold, it was still very nice. I also took that opportunity to do my laundry as well.

Later I went for a walk in town. I started with the ruins next to the Tholing Monastery. Before Tsamda used to be called Tholing; the name of the monastery which we will visit later. It was called the Northern Ruins; the stupa painted in white and red was beautiful. I had also a nice view over the river banks. It was truly an amazing landscape. Next to the big Stupa, there was an alignment of small chortens. Originally there were 108 but now, some of them were destroyed mainly because of the erosion of the cliff standing above the river.

I continue my walk across town and walk towards the Southern ruins where I met Eva and Florian. The Southern ruins are more impressive, the stupa is really nice.  We walk across the Tibetan village, it was very nice. The architecture is so different! Eventually we were back at the hotel.

In the evening we went out for dinner, the portions are very generous.

Day 21: Wednesday 24 September 2008

We left the hotel at 10.00 to Tsaparang the old capital of Guge Kingdom

A little bit about the Guge Kingdom:

More than 1,000 years ago, a powerful kingdom with a splendid civilization was born here. But after over 700 years of rule, the kingdom was destroyed by internal disorder and invasion from the outside. What are left here are the ruins of the capital of the Guge Kingdom.

The kingdom of  Guge was established in the 9th century following the assassination of the anti-Buddhist king Langdarma and break-up the Yarlung Empire.  When Langdarma, died, the royal family began to fight for the throne. Gyide Nyimagun, Long Darma’s descendent, lost the war and ran away to Ngari, where he established a small kingdom. Later, Gyide Nyimagun divided Ngari into three parts and gave them to his three sons. The Guge Kingdom was ruled by Dezogun, Gyide Nyimagun’s third son.   Here he established his capital: Tsaparang.

His regime ran for more than 700 years before being destroyed in a war. According to the Annals of Kings and Officials in Tibet, a total of 16 kings ruled the Guge Kingdom, and Guge Castle was accomplished through constant construction between the 10th and 16th century. Guge has a very significant position in the history of economic and cultural development of Tibet. Many significant Buddhist doctrines of ancient India were passed on to hinterland Tibet via Guge. Guge was also one of the important commercial ports linking ancient Tibet with the outside world. After the Tubo Dynasty died out, Tibet entered a 400-some year period of isolation. Guge was always a large and powerful kingdom. Even the dust of time cannot hide its prosperity and past glory. In1630 the Citadel was invaded by the Ladhakis who massacred almost everyone and destroyed everything. In a short time the citadel which sparkled for 700 years became ruins.

The 10th Century King, Yeshe-O and the translator Rinchen Zangpo worked together with Atisha to re-established Buddhism in Tibet and built over 1000 monasteries.

The drive to the ancient capital of Guge Kingdom was really nice despite being bumpy. At one stage we reached a village but villagers are taking the habit of closing the main doors, so Dunn Dup had to get off the car to open gate, let us inn, and then close the gates again. The ruins lie at about 25KM from Tsamda. Suddenly the citadel appeared in front of me, it was such a mysterious place. We got off the cars, and I stood there admiring its appearance under the deep blue sky. The buildings follow the hill to its top in a rigid layout and an imposing manner.

We are finally entering the Tsaparang ruins. We were given a guide from the ruins. So Wangchen and Dunn Dup just had to sit back!

The dzong is more than 300 meters high. It is home to houses, caves, pagodas, blockhouses, defence works and tunnels. The caves are now seriously damaged. Few works of architecture remain intact.

We started the visit by the White temple called Lhakhang Karpo. The wall paintings are amazing it said they are the oldest of the dzong. The chapel is a marvel. The wall paintings were amazing some of them were representing gods but others were depicting the life of Guge people at the time of its glory. What was not destroyed in 1630 with the invasion of the Ladhakis, the Cultural Revolution took care of it. Most of statues were sadly destroyed or severely damaged.

We continue by climbing a short set of steps and arrive in a smaller temple, then we went to the Red Temple or Lhakhang Marpo, we saw a few statues and Kashmiri paintings.

We continue our way through the Dzong across the monk’s quarters now in ruins.

We made our way on our own with Dunn Dup to the King’s summer residence  perched on the top of the hill; we went through a small tunnel inside the hill.  It was empty inside, but from here the view across the Sutlej valley was great. We sat for a while admiring the view.

We later made out way down to the Winter Palace; we went down through a tunnel via a tunnel with some extremely steep steps. A cable was put there so visitors can hang on to it. All the rooms of the Winter Palace are small caves tunnelled in the clay right below the Summer Palace. The rooms were built 12 metres underground in order to conserve the warmth. The ceiling was very low at one stage we had to crawl to get access to a room. We left the Winter Palace and started to walk back down to the entrance.

Guge must have been so marvellous; it is hard to imagine how a kingdom which was the home of Buddhism with great power and prosperity could vanish overnight.

We reach the home of the caretaker where the drivers and Catherine were waiting for us, I saw a nice dog. The dog went straight to my leg and wanted to “shag” me, it was embarrassing but very funny!

I was still under the spell of the Tsaparang Dzong, it was so amazing, that was the highlight of the trip for me and leaving not disappointed. We had a photo stop before driving back to Tsamda.

When we reached town we had lunch and share our lunch as the locals did. We each order a dish then everyone tucks into it.

Later we went to visit Tholing Monastery, the second most important site in Guge Kingdom.  It was built in the 11th century by Rinchen Zangpo. It took us time to find the keeper of the keys but we managed. Sadly most of statues were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution.

In the evening we went for a meal, it took us 10 minutes trying to order food. Eva had a pictures pointer book. The cook who spoke a little English told me “now you eat the pig?” Eva was vegetarian, it was funny as the way he said it, now she was making me feel guilty! He forgot to bring out something and we ask another lady she had a got at the poor cook who came out to help us.

I was very happy of my day, I saw Guge kingdom!

Chapter 9

Mt Kailash the axel of the World – Lake Manasarovar

Day 22: Thursday 25 September 2008

Before leaving Tsamda, I got extra chocolate supplies for the Kailash Kora.

We retraced our route back to Moincer, the drive out was as stunning as the way in through the Mangang Valley. We stopped for lunch in front of an army base shortly before arriving in Moincer. The only thing to eat was dry noodle which I did not like. It is lucky as I have emergency supplies in the car. Outside I saw a cute baby girl playing with a string of metal. At 14.00 we were in Moincer at the check point, lots of kids surrounded our cars, Catherine was telling them to keep off with their dirty hands. The check point wanted to see our passports again. In there I saw an officer inside the tent wearing a white and pink top, it hilarious!

The snow melted, but there were still a lot of road works going around. The road was still bumpy.  When we saw it! It was there! Mt Kailash! It exists!

After a photo stop, we pulled into Darchen at our Lodge. It was freezing cold. At this time our suspicions were confirm when the P.S.B told us that the pass was closed because of the snow. We asked the guides if at least we could do the first stage sleep up there and then walk back down, in which they agree to it.

I played outside for a while with my kite, but the wind was not strong enough. Catherine was out to hire porters for us. The yaks can’t come as they only go by 3 and one yak would have been enough for us. some local villagers were pestering us to buy jewellery from them. We left to have a walk in the village and see the Monastery. The monastery was shut, but from the top of the village the view was great.

The town of Darchen is the starting point for pilgrims (and tourists) for their Kailash Kora. Most of the pilgrims will pitch their own tents. The town is at 4650 metres above sea level. It means the place of the “large prayer flag”. We met Wangchen who was sent buy us to buy some water as the local businesses wanted to charge us a fortune for it! The ladies were still here trying to sell us some stuff. I went inside the lodge to get warm-up. Later we left to have  dinner; I found a new friend, a cat! Later in the evening in the tea house a Chinese girl was flirting with Chumbei and was trying to learn Tibetan. Do you really trust these guys ?????

Well it was time to go to bed tomorrow we will start the Kora.

Day 23: Friday 26 September 2008

An introduction to Mt Kailash

Mt Kailash which is called Kang Rinpoche by the Tibetans stands at an altitude of 6714 metres.

Kang Rinpoche which is revered by the Buddhists means “Precious Jewel of the Snows”. It is as natural pyramid to clean the sins of a lifetime. It is also the abode of Demchok, the wrathful manifestation of Buddha Sakyamuni. It is a naural Mandala representing the Buddhist cosmology on the earth. To walk around the peak and cross the Drolma La pass is to obliterate the sins of a lifetime. To walk or to prostrate around the mountain is to find the path of enlightenment.

To Hindus it is the dwelling of Shiva, the destroyer and according to the Sanskritt tradition of Vinshu Purana; it is a representation of Mt Sumeru, the cosmic mountain at the centre of the Universe. Its summit kissing the heavens and its four faces composed of gold, crystal, ruby and Lapis Lazuli. In Hinduism Mt Kailash is called Mountain of Shiva.

Bompos believe that the sacred mountain is the place where Shenrab Miwoche, the founder of Bon, landed when he descended from the sky. The called Kailash Yungdrung Gutse which means the mountains of the 9 storeys swastika.

In Jainism members of a religions established around the time of Buddhism believe that this site is holly because it is where there founder was awakened. Kailash is called Mountain of Asthapada.

It is a near perfect conical summit; it remains a spectacular sight from any angle you look at it. To each side is attributed a precious Jewel. The south is commonly called Sapphire face. The east is the Crystal face. The west face is Ruby and the north is Gold (a colour it adopts during sunset or sunrise). It is a sacred site both for Indous and Buddhists who will walk around the mountain clockwise.

Also 4 major rivers are born from its summit. The Tibetans know the rivers by legendary animals. The Indus or Lion River originates to the north of Kailash and sustained one of the mankind’s earliest civilisations in the Indus valley. Emerging from the eastern “horse’s mouth”, the Yarlung Tsangpo also known as Bramaputra feeds the mystics of Tibet before cutting through the eastern Himalayas. The Karnali (River from the Peacock ‘s mouth) which has its source south of Rakshas Tal, is a major tributary to the Ganges. Raskshas Tal is the lake neighbouring Manasarovar. The lake is known as the lake of  the Demon. From the Elephant’s mouth flows the Sutlej west through Guge and the Indian Himalayas.

I will mainly talk about the Kora from a Buddhist point of view as it is the main religion in Tibet. The Kora, the holly circuit for pilgrims involves walking around the sacred Mt Kailash. One circuit is about 52 KM. The Tibetans can complete the circuit in one day (around 14 hours). Pilgrims who complete 108 circuits will reach enlightenment. They move clockwise keeping Mt Kailash to their right. As a traveller it takes usually 3 days to complete the circuit.

We left the room at 09.00 for breakfast; it took over 1 hour to get some bread and an omelette, but never mind.

We left for the Kora a bit late, but the sun was shinning, so it was okay for us. We knew the pass was closed and it would be impossible for us to complete the full circuit. But our plan was to spend the night at Driraphuk which is about 22 Km from Darchen. From here we walk back down, yes it anti-clockwise we do not have much choice, we will have to pretend we belong to the Bon religion. Our guides did not mind about that.

Once we left Darchen we followed the path along the ridge. From here we could not see Mt Kailash anymore. At one stage we met the 3 ladies from Cambodia. They were only having a day trip from Darchen and will not go as high and as far as us. It seems we are following each others as met them in Punsum, Tsamda…! Later we stop for a short while next to some prayer flags. The place was called Chaktsel Gang; it is a prostration place for pilgrims. We made a small turn on right and follow the canyon of the Lha Chu River; from here we started to see Kailash again.

We soon saw Tarboche where we saw the flag pole which is replaced every year during the Saga Dawa festival (May). Another path led to the sky burial ground where we were not allowed as foreigners. We walk to  the right of the Chorten Kangyi, officially it is the start of the Kora.

Now we start to walk into the snow, In the snow I wrote “I love Tibet” and Dunn Dup wrote the same in Tibetan for me. From here  I also saw Chuku Monastery which we will visit on our way down. The monastery is built on the side of a cliff, it is very impressive. Along the way, Florian started a snow ball fight, it was good fun! The guides must have taken us for crazy people!

After crossing the river, we reach a tea tent where we had tea and lunch, we were slowing climbing up and  we starting to feel the strain! We saw a little boy, he was about 6 years old. The lady serving the tea was really nice, it was a welcome break. I think the site is called Damding Donkhang.

From now we could see really well the south face of Mt Kailash, we continue our walk, the snow was more abundant now and our feet were really wet! The climb was getting harder and harder. We stopped again in another nomad tent. It was so hard! Dunn Dup had snow till the hips!

We finally made it o the guest house of Driraphuk, by that time we saw the north face of Mt Kailash, it was a marvel. We were freezing cold, I could not wait to get in, and dry my feet.

We found only one room open at the guest house but the keeper was nowhere to be seen. With Eva we just collapse on a mattress we found on the floor and wrapping other with a duvet. The porter just lied down on the floor, he looked really knackered!

Eventually the keeper who was not expecting anyone crazy enough to walk up tonight was found. He lit a fire for us and cook us some rice.

The room was so cold! But we made it! Before I went to bed; under the moonlight I starred at Mt Kailash, the holly mountain which was and will be never climbed.

Day 24: Saturday 27 September 2008

We woke up freezing cold in the lodge at Drirapuk.

I went to the toilets outside and my pee nearly froze straight away, it was really weird. We had a quick breakfast; I  lived on my survival rations and tea.

Florian wanted to go up to the Monastery, I was so tired that I declined as my feet were also nice and warm as I was sitting next to the fire. He came back a short while later as there was so much snow that the monastery could not be reached.

A few minutes later; we all left to make our way back down to Darchen. We were retracing our steps. Along the way we had another snow ball fight and play bowling with stones. Well it was a game like any other!

At one stage we met 3 tourists climbing up, they heard that we went up so they decided to do the same. We told them that the pass was closed, but once in Drirapuk, the views of Kailash were stunning! Their job was easier as they were stepping in the tracks WE made the day before. We met them at the tea tent were we had stopped before.

Well, it was much easier coming down! We stopped again to have a break; I saw a nice butterfly on my jacket.

Pubu and Chumbei were waiting for us near Chuku Gompa. We decided to visit the monastery with Florian, Eva wanted to stay. So with Wangchen and Florian we started to ascent the hill towards the monastery, the climb was very steep. The Monastery was built in the 13th century and completely restored in the 1980′s.

The view of Kailash was great as well from the top of the Monastery. We went back to the cars and left for Darchen. I spotted a Himalayan marmot.  Twenty five minutes later we arrived in Darchen where we grabbed a quick lunch and a beer.

We were happy to have completed the first day as the conditions were difficult but disappointed in a way not to have accomplished the full Kora, but it was not fault. Unfortunately you can not change the weather!

Later after lunch we left Darchen and Mt Kailash behind us to drive to Lake Manasarovar. It will only be a 30Km drive.

We arrived at Chiugompa early afternoon. The lodge was very pretty. The rest of the afternoon was spent playing card games.

I was bursting for the loo, but managed to go to the wrong side, a male army officer walk in and I told him off, the guy looked at me weirdly. Off course as I came out I realised it was my mistake….ouppsss!

Eva who is vegetarian made a joke before dinner saying “oh I just saw your dinner running through the kitchen!”. I got up and check, there was a sheep inside the kitchen, the owner took him outside. Well we laught about it.

We had a nice evening and dinner.

Day 25: Sunday 28 September 2008

We spent the night in the village of Chiugompa not far from the shore of Lake Manasarovar. It was extremely cold as well.

For breakfast Pubu made some Tsampa again for us. Tsampa is quite simple to prepare; indeed, it is known as a convenience food and often used by sherpas, nomads, and other travelers. Tsampa is the staple, indeed often the only, diet of the Tibetans. It is a kind of flour made from roasted barley mixed with buttered tea in a bowl. It need to be  stirred  gently with the fingers. It demands a high degree of manual dexterity.  Pubu have obviously a certain amount of practical experience to judge correctly how much tsampa goes with how much tea. Even the small ball I was given was quiet filling, it keeps you going all day!

Lake Manasarovar lies at 4572 metres. The lake has got a circumference of 90Km. The Lake is known as Mapham Tso to the Tibetans. Mapham means “unconquered”  together with Mt Kailash; the lake is sacred and is a pilgrimage site. The ashes of Mahatma Gandhi were scattered here.

The pilgrimage around the lake (the Kora) last about from 3 to 5 days. The circuit is a little over 100 Km. Hindus believe that the lake was created from the mind of  the God of Creation: Brahma. For a Hindu, drinking even a single drop of its holy purifying waters is believed to cleanse the sins of a hundred lives. Buddhists believe that Maya, the mother of Buddha washed in the Lake Manasarovar prior to the birth of her son. Tibetans believe the lake was born through devotional acts such as giving, personal generosity and from those genuinely seeking enlightenment.

After enjoying a nice breakfast we walk to the shore of the lake.  I went to the toilets 200 metres down the road; there was a sheep inside it! It was really funny!

After walking for a short while we reach the shore of the lake. We saw some Indians pilgrims conducting a ceremony. As I mentioned before they come totally unprepared for the cold weather. Most of them were wearing jacket which they rented from their travel agent. They will only eat Indian food, if it is not available they will try to survive on cookies. The guide told me that a lot of Indians die during their trip because they are not prepared and do not eat well.

The lake was beautiful; we can also see snow capped mountains all around it.

We could also see Mt Kailash pointing its summit above a small hill. We then started to climb the hill to reach Chiu Gompa Monastery, it was closed but after a short while we found some body to open it for us. It was very small but pretty. The views over the lake were very nice as well as the views over the village of Chiu.

We walk back to the village and our lodge were we found our drivers playing cards with money; the winner pays the drinks to the others. The sun is shinning so, I am trying to improve my tan.

It is really amazing to see how the Tibetan live, it is very basic. No running water, to have water they need to walk to the nearest river. As a result they learn to use it wisely! The electricity is obtained via solar energy, so they also use it with parsimony. The public toilets are about 200 meters down the road and it just consists of a pit. Life is slowly improving.

In small villages the children are taught school in Tibetan and learn Chinese, in big cities it is the other way around.

The drivers kept playing cards all afternoon barely stopping for lunch. Florian was resting in the bedroom as he did not feel very well. The kept moving the table according to the sunlight. Eva is reading “Le Voyage d Hector”.

In the evening Pubu made the cooking for us, it was delicious! Later the guys were playing with cigarette smoke. As a joke I hid Pubu’s cigarettes. It was funny but cruel!

Chapter 10

Drive to Lao Tingri and

Everest Base Camp

Day 26:  Monday 29 September 2008

We left Chiugumpa at 10.40. I was looking for my sunglasses everywhere. Oh well…The drive was really nice we even saw Tibetan Gazelles again and wild asses.

Dunn Dup was sleeping in the back of the car, so as  a joke Pubu kept lowering the windows sown on his side. It was funny!

At one stage we stopped at a military check point, the Chinese tourists in front of us got searched but not us!

We talk about Tibet in the car and agree to a point that in the Western World people wants Tibet to remain the same as it was 500 years ago. But they too are allowed to develop like the rest of the world while still retaining their culture. Most Westeners will not want to live 1 day the Tibetan style; with no running water and electricity barely available.

I enjoyed today’s drive with the sight of the snow capped mountains, black necked cranes…. We had a toilet stop, of course we did not anyone for hours; but as I wanted to pee 2 trucks drove past blowing their horns and waving! I saw some lonely horsemen along the road. Yes;  Tibetan life is tough!

We arrived at Paryang at about 15.45. We drove all around town to find accommodation,; we even lost Chumbei at one stage. We eventually made it to the Tashi Hotel. The owner was really nice. He went to a shop to buy me a coke because he did not have any!

While I was unpacking I found my sunglasses! Our room was tiny and dusty but we don’t really care!

The toilets are very funny as the women were facing the men with small wall in between, but the men standing up that means, they could see the all lot. Also from here as they were elevated, I could see the all village and waved at the neighbours!

The town is a bit of a “dump”, there is rubbish everywhere with dogs and rats fighting for the spot. I saw so many stray dogs, it was sad in a way!

I went for a short walk, there was a small chapel, and the locals were really welcoming. I later came back out to but some drinks for the drivers and guides who are playing cards again! I realised that our trip will be ending soon, it is a shame as I was getting to know them really well. The drivers are really good fun and will do their best to help us and make sure we are all right.

Before dinner I was offered dry Yak meat, it was really nice.

After dinner I played “bataille” with Chumbei who was clearly cheating! I told him the word cheat in French “Tricheur” and asked him to say I am a cheat in French, it was very funny! Well at least for me!

In the evening Wangchen ran off with my torchlight, I though he wanted it to go to the toilets but disappeared for 2 hours. I started moaning about it! I was already in bed when he came back! The excuse was that he wanted to buy a coke to Chumbei!

Day 27: Tuesday 30 September 2008

We left our lodge in Paryang. The owner was really nice. We were the only one at the lodge it was a pleasant evening we had. It will be probably our last one on our own as in Tingri it will be probably busier!

I was thinking of the couple who did not make it. Some rules are contradictive :  “You must have your visa to have TTB Permits”. If you however put Tibet as your intended destination on your application form, you will be required to put your Tibetan Permit number, without it your visa will be refused. But you can t get tour permit without the visa, so you have to be economical with the truth.  (I did not say you have to lie!!!)

All Chinese visa are cancelled if the tour starts from Kathmandu, a new special one is needed. The problem is; it takes at least a day to get it. Not any more as the Chinese Embassy is closed on most day because Tibetans refugees try to burn the gates down. The Nepalese army and police have to obey orders and do their jobs to remove the refugees from the embassy. It has gone on for ages now! So my personal advise to travellers, if you have to go Tibet, do not  start your trip from Nepal, as it is very likely to be cancelled because you do not have the proper paperwork. (At this time of writing)

I was told that most Tibetans in Tibet do not like or want the Tibetans refugees back. According to the Tibetans in Tibet I was told that the refugees cause more problems for them than help. (More paper work when people want to get out of their town).

More Tibetans wants to evolve, have plumbing, sewers, running water, more toilets… My driver Pubu has to share the toilets with 3 other families. On the contrary he has got a TV and a DVD player!

We stopped again to have lunch in the village we stopped on the way in and guess what I have  diarrhoea again at the same place!

We had a few stops along the way the drive was really nice the boys had a “throwing the stone” game.

At one stage Pubu wanted to overtake a slower car in front that did not let him pass, I think he swore in Tibetan!

We arrived in Saga mid afternoon. I have done now my washing and I am relaxing playing cards.

I saw some army men jogging down the street while I was out.

I went for dinner and order a mushroom soup, the portion was huge!. The local looked at me smiling.  Along the way I saw some Indians, they looked like if they were freezing cold! It was funny to see them wondering in town, well you could not miss them…! The locals were amused as well!

When I came back in the hotel I had a shower while the hot water was still on.

Day 28: Wednesday 01 October 2008

We left Saga at 09.30; it was like the Ritz Hotel in comparision to what we had before!

Today is the National Day of China. October 1st is the anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949 and celebrated as China’s National Holiday. An important occasion, the holiday is celebrated all over China.

We cross the river as we left Saga using the bridge newly built; only a few years ago people have to use a rusty ferry to cross the river.

The drive was now on a dirt road and was very bumpy. We reached a pass where we saw the major mountains of the Himalayas.  We were driving along the Kyirong Valley.

We continue our route further to reach Pelkhu Cho Lake, from here we saw Xiaxiapangma at 8012 metres, also known as Shisha Pangma to the Nepalese or as Gosainthan. The lake was beautiful. It was also very calm and quiet. We stopped here for a while the boys were playing push ups along a road sign it was very funny!

It was my last ride alone with Pubu, as from tomorrow, the Germans will joined me to go Everest Base Camp. The day after Pubu will come back to Lhasa with Catherine and Dunn Dup, and Chumbei will take us back to Nepal border with Wangchen. It is to balance the kilometres between the 2 drivers.

We took a group photo next to the lake. The drive was really nice! To drive from Saga was really stunning, we even saw some nomads and their yaks along the road as well. Just before we left the lake we saw some army trucks driving past us. We followed them to overtake them a while later. We stopped at a small village (3 houses) to eat lunch but they had nothing so we jump back into the cars. It was time to hot my emergency rations! We had a small stop to enjoy the view over Shisha Pangma seen from another angle.

We stopped near the village of Silling or Seylong to pay for our permits to enter the Qomolongma Nature Reserve. We waited for a long time for it. Once we left we entered a desert! Flat and very hot!

Once we left the desert we crossed a small village where we stopped  for a short while, Dunn Dup was still sleeping in the back of the car. After the village all the houses were built in the Tibetan style. We continue our drive towards Lao Tingri, there was a lot of road works going on, all done by hands, almost no mechanical machines!

Just before we arrived in Tingri we saw the first views of Mt Qomolongma (Everest). We made it to Lao Tingri at about 16.00

Lao Tingri is a starting town for most trekkers going to The Everest Base Camp. The village is very pretty.

The lodge were we are staying is very pretty especially the comnunal hall, as soon as we came in the drivers ordered lunch, the portions were designed for “hungry drivers!”. I saw to best pleasure two small black kittens. They are so cute! The drivers looked really tired as well.

I left for a small walk through the village; it was very nice despite having to walk on the road as the pavements were being refurbished. It was very windy and cold outside. I saw a small donkey waiting in front of shop. Two guys stopped me and wanted to buy by jacket, and were asking me where I bought it. It was my fake North Face Jacket I bought in Kathmandu a few years earlier! In exchange they wanted to give me a leg of a yak (meat). It was extremely cold, there is no way I would I give my jacket away! I was walking back towards the lodge where Chumbei and Catherine stopped and gave a lift back. They were coming back the government office to sort out our permits to Everest Base Camp for tomorrow.

In the evening I played the little kittens. One of the was sleeping on Chumbei’s leg who was also asleep, it was very cute!

Day 29: Thursday 02 October 2008 The E day!!!!

We had an early weak up call at 07.30 to leave at 08.00. The lady of the lodge made us really nice pancakes.

At 08.00 we were in Pubu’s car, it was still dark outside but the sun was slowly rising, it was great! It was also very cold Pubu put is “China Police” coat over our knees (with Eva). We stopped at a check point, it was very slow, and Wangchen was inside for a long time. Was he having breakfast with them or what? It turns up that he woke up the guy and he was not very happy about it! It is very lucky that we had our passport with us, as they asked for it. (Catherine did not say anything about it!) The sunrise was really stunning!

That’s it!  I am on my way to Northern Everest Base Camp. I saw the Southern side when I went to Nepal in 2006. The road or dirt track is almost non existent was very bumpy, the drive was very hard! We stopped a few time to admire the view, also in view was Cho Oyu.  After a second check point, it was like a mirage, Everest was right in front of us! We are now reaching Ronbuk which will visit the monastery later on. The monastery is highest in the world at 4980m.

Shortly before that, we saw a police car driving very fast towards the Base Camp. At Ronbuk, we had another checkpoint, it turns up the police caught 3 American trekkers without a valid permit, the fine for not having a permit is a 1000$ per person. We reach Ronbuk; it is mainly just tents offering a bed for the night as well as people selling overprice souvenirs. We are now at an altitude of 5200m. We left the Land-cruiser behind us and pay 25Yuan to board a mini bus to go to Base Camp. It will take too much time to trek.  In the previous year visitors had to go with a horse and carriage.

The ride was only about 8Km, when we reach the Base Camp, once again we had another permit check. The weather was perfect not a cloud in the sky! From there it was a short walk to the Base Camp. I started to take pictures from every possible angles, I was shooting like crazy! It was so fantastic! I could see the ROOF OF THE WORLD!!! The view was breathtaking! I am obsess with Mt Everest, it so magical! Everest is like a pyramid piercing the sky!

Mount Everest is located at the border between China (Tibet) and Nepal. At 8848 meters, it is the highest mountain on Earth. Mt. Everest takes its name after Sir George Everest who was the first person to record its height.  Sir Everest was working as a surveyor. First it was named Peak XV, in 1852 its high was calculated at 8840m by Radhanath Sikdar, an Indian mathematician and surveyor from Bengal.

In 1865, the mountain was given its English name by Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India. With both Nepal and Tibet closed to foreign travel, he wrote:

“I was taught by my respected chief and predecessor, Colonel Sir George Everest to assign to every geographical object its true local or native appellation. But here is a mountain, most probably the highest in the world, without any local name that we can discover, whose native appellation, if it has any, will not very likely be ascertained before we are allowed to penetrate into Nepal. In the meantime the privilege as well as the duty devolves on me to assign…a name whereby it may be known among citizens and geographers and become a household word among civilized nations.”

Nepalese will also call it Sagarmatha “Goddess in the Sky” as the Tibetans will call it Chomolungma “Mother Goddess of the Universe”, demonstrating the immense respect and reverence that the locals have for this awesome mountain. Most sherpas are saying that Miyolangsangma is the protector goddess of Everest. Miyolangsangma is the Tibetan Buddhist goddess who lives at the top of Chomolungma (Mt. Everest). She is one of the seven long-life sisters and her virtue is Inexhaustible Giving. She started out as a malevolent demoness and was converted by a great Buddhist. Now she is the Goddess of inexhaustible giving and of Everest and the Khumbu area in general. She rides a golden tigress, and hands out the jewels of wishes to those deserving.

Many climbers of Chomolungma beseach her favour at the traditional stupa in which a Buddhist monk prays for them and they go through certain ceremonies.

On June 8, 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, both of the United Kingdom, made an attempt on the summit via the north col/north ridge route from which they never returned.

The summit was eventually reached at 11:30 a.m. local time on May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal climbing the South Col Route. They became the first men to stand on the summit and be back home safely, 101 years after it was discovered to be the highest mountain on earth.

Sir Edmond Hilary, the man who climbed Everest passed away in January 2008; he was most the known and loved mountaineer. But he was also better known for working towards improving the daily life of the Sherpas and the Nepalis. Chris Bonington a famous mountaineer once said about Hilary “I was immensely impressed by the breadth of his interests, his humanity, sound common sense and rich sense of humour… He  was indeed a great and inspirational man”.

Tenzing Norgay once said to his son “I have climb Everest so you wouldn’t have to, you can’t see the entire world from the top of Everest Jamling. The view from there only reminds you how big the world is and how much there is to see and learn”, the son of Tenzing was a member of the 1996 expedition he successfully summited and came back. (During the 1996 climbing season, fifteen people died trying to reach the summit, making it the deadliest single year in Everest history. The disaster gained wide publicity and raised questions about the commercialisation of Everest.)

Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet. As of the end of the 2006 climbing season, there have been 3,050 ascents to the summit, by 2,062 individuals, and 203 people have died on the mountain. To climb Everest there are only about 3-5 days a year when the weather is at his best, it is around the 09 May -12 May.

Only about 10% of the people who attempt the ascent actually succeed.

The guide told me that Everest is the only place in China where the Tibetan flag can be flown without interference. These are left by the Sherpas climbing from the Nepalese side, they also leave photos of the Dalai Lama.

Mount Qomolangma or Mount Everest? (China Daily November 18, 2002)
The days of empires and overt colonialism have long past but the Earth’s highest peak has retained its anglicised name, complained Gelek, an established Tibetan scholar with China’s Tibetology Centre in Beijing. “It is time for the Western world to respect us Tibetans by recognizing the highest peak on Earth by its Tibetan name, Qomolangma,” he says.  “This is also a call to the international Tibetology community to use Tibetan names for Tibetan things.”
Lin Chao, a professor of geography with Peking University, who died in 1991 in his early 80s, branded the naming of the peak after George Everest, the surveyor-general of India from 1830 to 1843, as “ignorance and arrogance” on the part of the British, whose then empire extended into much of Asia.  For Tibetans, it is unacceptable that the 8,848-metre summit and symptom of a benevolent goddess is known to Westerners by an English name.
Lin Chao, an expert on geographic history and toponymy who spent 61 years studying and teaching geography, explored the controversy in a paper entitled “The Discovery and Name of Qomolangma,” published in the fourth issue of the Peking University Journal in 1958.

In the paper, the late professor concluded: “Those who discovered Mount Qomolangma first were Tibetans living in southern Tibet and they so named it. And those who first recorded the peak on a map using scientific methods were Chinese surveyors Shengzhu, Churbizanbo and Lanbenzhanba, who conducted the survey in Tibet between 1715 and 1717.”  The trio  (an official in charge of ethnic affairs and two Buddhist lamas) were dispatched by Emperor Kangxi (reigned 1661-1722) of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) to map the territory of Tibet.  They “quite accurately” recorded the geographic data of the Qomolangma area and marked the name of the peak in its Tibetan pronunciation on the map, “which laid down the foundation of knowledge about Qomolangma in the ensuing two centuries.” ….

The survey and marking of Qomolangma on the map during the reign of Emperor Kangxi preceded the British colonialists’ attempt to map the summit by more than 130 years, according to Lin.  When the British tried to map the mountain from India, “they knew nothing about Qomolangma. While they could not get a permit to conduct surveys among local Tibetans in areas around the peak, they did not bother to study the literature already in existence in Europe and China,” Lin wrote.  “They arbitrarily named what they used to address as Peak XV after a person who had nothing to do with Qomolangma.”  If the British were ignorant of the name Qomolangma when they named the summit after George Everest in the mid-19th century, thereafter they made no attempt to revert to the Tibetan name which had been known for some time.

In Tibetan legends, the Himalayan region was once an ocean and all creatures and plants lived peacefully in the forest ashore. But one day came a monstrous dragon with five heads and the huge waves it stirred up inundated the forest and meadows. When the creatures were about to be swept away by the torrents, five colourful clouds descended from heaven, turned into five beautiful goddesses and defeated the monster with their magic power. At the request of the creatures they saved, the five goddesses did not return to their heavenly residence and stayed on to protect lives on Earth.  They ordered the sea to recede before they turned themselves into five peaks, one of which is Qomolangma, which towers the highest, most serene and imposing, with her perennial garb of snow under an azure sky.

Lin and some other Chinese scholars began to call for promoting the use of the summit’s Tibetan name world-wide in the 1950s. At a press conference during his visit to Nepal in April 1960, Zhou Enlai, the late Chinese premier, said Chinese people were not happy with the name Everest.  But the English name persists into the Internet era, with the name Everest dominating all websites relating to the peak. In most cases, Qomolangma or Chomolungma is used only as a reference.

While Qomolangma is indicative of the orient, Basang says the British name “may mislead those who don’t know the mountain into thinking that the summit is in Europe or the Americas. To name the holy mountain after a foreigner is nothing but disrespectful to our Tibetan culture.”

Xu Tiebing, a professor of international relations at the Beijing Broadcasting Institute, points out that according to norms governing international relations, the name given by indigenous people should be respected.  “It’s forgivable for Westerners to call the peak Everest because of their ignorance of its Tibetan name,” he says.  “But now so many years have passed and it is time for them to correct their mistake.”  Gelek says: “When Qomolangma becomes the only word for people all over the world to refer to the highest peak on Earth, I, as a Tibetan, will feel very contented.” And so will the Tibetan goddess of the Earth.  (End of article)

I could sit here for hours; we took a few more photos of other when sadly it was time to go. The Tibetan side of Everest is much nicer than the Nepali side. It was more grandiose. It left me speechless… I did not want to go, it was magic, I could only own respect to the guys and girls who reached the summit. We were already at 5200 meters to go, but still Qomolangma look so tall! It was much better than I was expected. We were lucky to have a clear weather. Now clouds are starting to form around the roof of the world. Qomolangma, I dream of this for years!

We went back to a mini bus, we met family from Mauritius, and they must have been freezing cold. When we reach Ronbuk, I went to the highest Post Office on earth. It consisted of a tent. I bought and send a few postcards from here.

We then had lunch in a small tent, it was very warm, and the food was great. After lunch we wondered around the souvenirs stalls. Then we left for Ronbuk Monastery.

Ronbuk is said to be the highest monastery in the world at 4980m. It was built in 1902, it once housed 500 monks, but now only a dozen remain. The monastery was ransacked during the Cultural Revolution and rebuilt in the early 1990′s. From here the views over Everest were really great!

At the entrance of the monastery, there was confusion as we though the entrance was included, but in fact it was not. After we paid our ticket we were allowed in. The inside was very nice, especially the mural paintings. I was surprised to see a “coucou” clock!

After visiting the monastery we wanted to accomplish the highest Kora on earth, it was very nice! Wangchen was playing silly again!. By now the clouds are coming fast and Qomolangma is covered by the clouds. That’s what I call good timing! On the back we saw some Tibetan Antelopes.

In the evening I hanged around the tea-house playing with the kittens, it was very funny because one of them poo on me! I was later offered some sheep meet and I wanted to share my portion so I gave a small piece to one of the kitten who decided that my finger tasted better. So first he poos on me and then he bites me!

Chumbei was playing with the little boy who kicked him in the goolies, oouch!

Then we started to drink a little bit just before dinner, it was our last evening all together as Pubu, Catherine and Dunn Dup will be driving back to Lhasa while Wangchen and Chumbei will come with us to the border. It was also my last true Tibetan evening. For once last time were doing CHAPTA!! (Drinking your glass in one go)

During dinner we saw an ambulance parked outside our lodge, it turned out that a workman doing the road works got badly hurt and they were meeting him half way through. The ambulance came all the way from Shigatse. Unfortunately, the man died during the way to Lao Tingri. It was sad. But the anbulance people went back inside the lodge leaving the dead body inside in order to finish their dinner.

Just after dinner we gave them the tips, I was a bit generous I think compare to I briefly saw from the Germans, but they were great as well. They always smile, Pubu was always cheerful. It is a shame as it was time to leave just after you get to know them.

Chapter 11

Leaving Tibet -  The drive to Kathamdu

Day 30: Friday 03 October 2008

I woke up earlier to say good bye to Pubu, Dunn-Dup and Catherine. It is really Pubu I wanted to see one more time. I stay and had breakfast with them, and then they left. It was so strange. I saw “my car” and “my driver” leaving as I was weaving at them. They have a long day ahead to drive back to Lhasa from Lao Tingri.

Now 20 minutes after saying good bye to the others it was our turn to leave town. Chumbei was driving much faster! I am glad I did not travel with the Germans, as 3 in the back is a bit cramp. It is not as comfy!  Chumbei was laughing every time we were jumping up and down the car. I had mix feeling one part of me wanted to say, the other part was thinking, well it is over now let’s go home now.

We had a few photo stops, mainly at the Thong La pass at 5480m. The view was incredible. My last view of the Tibetan peaks as in a few minutes  we will start our descend towards Nyalam. Chumbei and Wangchen were paying their respects to the gods. They were very religious, as every time we stopped at a pass they were shouting “shouh shouh shouh”. It was my last taste of real Tibet. I felt a bit sad at this time. We stopped near a small village, Wangchen was trying to lift a big stone, and it was very funny!

We arrived at the entrance of Nyalam we are now at 3750m, we had our permits checked then we stopped in town to have lunch. Wangchen bought some special bread which was very nice!

Now we are starting the big descent towards Nepal, it is only a 30KM drive to Zhangmu where we will spend the night. The road is snaking around the mountain, I was sitting on the right side so I was next to the ravine, it was very impressive, stunning! It was almost scary!

Chumbei passed under a waterfall, and took the opportunity to have a free car-wash. Now above was Tibet, it was like the end of the world, a massive drop! Now there were lots of trees, we were driving a road along a forest. The climate was changing as well it was very hot now. Amazing only a few hours before I was above 5000 metres! At the bottom I could see the Bhoti Kosi River.

In the late afternoon we arrived at Zhangmu we are now at 2350 metres high, it was a dramatic drop! The town is perched on the edge of the ravine.  I don’t feel in Tibet any more it is a mix of Nepal and China, as town is an army post. I saw a few Nepalese truck drivers.

We check -in in our hotel, but the room was bad, so we changed it.

From the terrace of the hotel we saw Kodari in Nepal. We saw the bridge marking the border. It was my last day in Tibet!

I went out with the Germans, the streets were a bit congested with the Nepali drivers and their Tata trucks and the army vehicles going up and down.

We went to visit a small temple in town and just walk around. I saw a group of army soldiers jogging in the street.

I went back to the hotel to relax and watch from the terrace the border of Nepal. I could see 2 Chinese soldiers standing on a roof and watching over the valley.

Wangchen took us to buy the Tibetan music we I heard in the car. This guy is really nice, he came back early this evening very proud showing off his new shirt and saying thank you to us. He bought it with its tips. I was very please for him.

At 19.00 we went out for dinner all together. Wangchng told us his strory, that he was studying Tibetan Medicine and escaped to India, when he got back to Tibet he got caught with illegal material (Tibetan flag) and was send for 4 years in jail. The government banned him from practicing Tibetan Medicine and beeing a monk. Now if he wants a passport he must pay a fee of 10 000 Yuans.

When we went back from dinner, we stayed on the terrace of the hotel, only being lit with candles, the atmosphere was very pleasant. At 22.00 everybody went to bed, Chumbei was tired and will have a long day tomorrow.

It was my last night in Tibet, from freezing cold we went to boiling hot!

Day 31: Saturday 04 October 2008

We woke up at 08.00 and invited the guys for breakfast. I did not feel in Tibet anymore. I stared one last time toward the Nepali border. On the Chinese side everything was so organised… but on the Nepalese side it looked like a real mess of trucks and disorganised feeling!

During breakfast Wangchen told me his secret. (In order to protect him, I can not say I am afraid, but he went to jail for something ridiculous). Chumbei showed us photos of his family. He had the latest mobile phone on the market!

Then we left the hotel. At 09.30 we were standing in the queue at the border. After 1 hour, we started to move, I was leaving Tibet! My proper trip was over. My passport got the exit stamp; I was now in no man’s land.

We got back into the car and drove the final 8 KM to the bridge marking the official Chinese/Nepalese border. On route there was a small land slide and we had to wait for some workers to clear the road. Then vChumbei stopped the car and said “Now finished”. We were 150 metres from the bridge a guy from Royal Mountain Nepal (our local agent in Nepal) was here waiting for us. We said our final good byes. I felt sorry for them as they have a long drive ahead of them back to Lhasa. Also may be because they would like to cross the border as well. Chumbei had his family in Lhasa, but Wangchen? I am sure he would like to leave Tibet. It is such a shame it is when you really start to know them than it is time to leave them. I am going to miss them for a while as they were good fun to be with.

It is now 11.30 in China, once we cross the bridge it will be 09.45 in Nepal.

We left and follow the guide we had to show our passport at a control point one more time and cross the Friendship Bridge marking the border between China and Nepal. It was so weird!  Of course no photos allowed! The bridge was built in 1964. It is about eight meters wide and forty-five meters long.

I miss Tibet already, my trip went so fast!

Pass the bridge we arrived at the Nepalese immigration where I bought my visa (45$)

Our car was stuck between 2 trucks and we could not get out, so we put our stuff on it and walk a bit further down to wait for the driver.  The car was free eventually and we started our drive to Kathmandu, shortly after leaving the border town of Kodari, our driver stopped to show us a waterfall. It was very pretty, it was so weird to see so much vegetation as we bearely saw any trees since a month!

Later we stopped for lunch and a drink. We had a photo stop near Dhulikel, from here we were supposed to have “fantastic views” over the Himalayans peaks such as Everest. It was cloudy and we did not see anything, Tibet looked so far away now!

Eventually we arrived in Kathmandu; I found out that the hotel I was supposed to be booked did not have my booking so I had to wait until the matter was resolved. That certainly did not please the Germans! After a few phone calls I was booked to another hotel on the other side of town.

I said good bye to Eva and Florian, I found them distant, like if there fed up of me!  Not my fault if the hotel was not booked properly!

I relax a bit in the hotel and then went out to look  for my Thangka and a Buddha.

It was very tiring to be back in Kathmandu with the noise of cars, rickshaws…

I had an early night.

Chapter 12

Kathmandu

Day 32: Sunday 05 October 2008

I walk around Thamel in the morning. I bought The Wheel of Life which I previously saw yesterday.

The Wheel of life: The Wheel of Life is a pictorial and symbolic representation used in Tibetan buddhism to illustrate the states of rebirth and the condition that give rise to them.  The Wheel of life appears in the vestibule of most Tibetan manasteries and depicts the reams of existence for sentient beings and the causes of suffering which causes the endless cycle of rebirth.

The wheel is held in the jaws, hands and legs of Yama (the Lord of Death) who presides over a cyclic existence. It is divied in mainly 4 parts,

The first part is the centre (hub) are depicted the forces that impel this cycle of rebirth: greed – the cock, hatred- the snake, and ignorance- the pig. It is these three that underlie all human bondage and misery. Immediately surrounding these forces are shown fortunate beings ascending to heaven and unfortunate descenting to hell (part 2).

In part 3: The wheel is divited into 6 segments (clockwise from top)

- Realm of the Gods where no worries and too much comfort make the inhabitants think that the life they lead is permanent. Even they will be reborn when their merit-stock is exhausted.

-Realm of the Titans who thrive on power and whose jealoussy impels them to attack the gods in the hope that their life will be a better in that realm.

- Realm of the Spirits, the tortured spirits whose greed ensures them a life of misery due to unquenchable desires. Huge bellies and thin necks indicate their desires will never be fulfilled.

- Realm of the hot and cold hells where beings who have committed deeds of hatred, violence etc, are punished by methods which fit their transgressions.

-Realm of the animals where creatures are the victims of overwork, beatings and carelessness and are impelled by only the most base instincts.

-Realm of humans, showing vignettes of ordinary human life. This realm is said to be the best as humans have choice, the power to do good, and the ability to hear Buddha’s word.

Each realm contains a form of a Buddha, each carrying an implement representing the approriate means to arouse the inhabitants from their torpid state.

The last part  is the outher rim that depicts the 12 independant causes of rebirth:

A blind women (ignorance), a potter (karmic formations), a monkey plucking fruit (consciousness), a boat and passengers (mind and body), a house with 6 windows (6 senses), a pair of lovers (contact), an arrow piercing the eye of a man (feeling), a man drinking water (thirst), men gathering fruits (clinging), sexual intercourse (becoming), a women giving birth ( birth), man carrying corpse on his back (death).

I love this painting, it is such powerful!

I also found Myolosangama (The Goddess of Everest) in one sho at 27000NRP (NPR=Nepalese rupee) and told the guy I will be back later. Later one I saw a better one for much cheaper  (10000NPR) so I never went back to the shop. I also found a Majushri the god of wisdom which I like, but I will still shop around. Manjushri is said to have the power of discriminating wisdom. He can discriminate between correct and incorrect views and between beneficial and non-beneficial actions that must be taken on one’s spiritual path. He holds a sword that vanquishes ignorance. Manjushri’s sword is also considered a sword of quick detachment and a symbol of enlightened will.

I made my way to Royal Mountain Nepal, my travel agent to collect my fight ticket to go to Hong Kong, after turning around I managed to find their small office. They guy told me that Royal Nepal often cancel their flight which I have heard off, but I was willing to take the risk. I went back to Thamel to check my email and bought a snack for lunch.

After Lunch I made my way to the Indu temple of Pashupatinath. Here they cremate around 60 bodies a day. It takes around 4 hours for the body to burn then the ashes are thrown in the Bagmati River which flows into the Ganges. The access of the temple itself is strictly for Indus only but tourists are free to wonder anywhere else.

I took a taxi back to the city which was busy as ever. Nepalese were preparing the Dashain festival, one of the most important in the year. (See my previous blog on Everest Base Camp).

In the evening I went to local restaurant, a guy started to chat me about the politics of Nepal, which is still a taboo subject. Not wanted to express my opinion or talk to that guy I spotted another foreigner so I made a move toward him. He was from Lyon in France! He was planning to go to the Everest Region, but flights were cancelled because of the bad weather. I felt sorry for him!

I really miss Tibet and the guys and the famous  ”Chapta”! I really feel sorry for them as they can’t get out of their country. The guides who got out the country can’t get a licence as guide. (Unless they know someone!) Before they get paid they have to go to the tax office to pay a tax, get a piece of paper stamped for the tax office, then go back to the employer and collect their money.

I have to admit the best encounters I had, is when I was on my own away from the official circuit.

The campaign “Free Tibet” (see their website for more info) makes people aware of what’s going on. On the other side made some situations a lot worst for Tibetans leaving in Tibet. The campaign does not benefit the Tibetans leaving in Tibet.

Day 33: Monday 06 October 2008

I hanged around a bit in Thamel, being immerse in the sounds of the city with the constant blowing horn. I was also running the risk of constantly being run over by rickshaws!

Shopkeepers in Thamel keep calling you constantly for your business. I made the decision to go to Bodhnath Stupa, my preferate part of Kathmandu! It will also give me a last taste of Tibet. I asked a taxi driver to drop me there, he said okay, but later I saw him driving in the wrong direction, so I stopped him and told him he was going the wrong way. It is lucky I knew my way around the city, if not I will ended up in Patan which is the other side of Kathmandu!!! The taxi driver wanted me to charge me 500 rupies to which I argue as it was his fault for taking the wrong way, at the end we settled for 300.  I pointed the map at him and he still got it wrong. I should have paid 200 originally. May be I should have argue more or call the police, but it could have turn nasty and asked me to pay the 500 asked!

Anyway, I arrived at my lovely Bodhnath Stupa, I really love it! Some people were changing the prayer flags of the stupa. It looks more beautiful as ever! I went to a shop to buy a Tibetan and Buddhist flag with a few postcards.

I wanted to buy a Tibetan Trumpet like Eva bought in Lhasa. I saw a small music shop with 2 small trumpets. I asked to try it, so I blew in it but nothing came out! A monk who just entered the shop took the  trumpet and blow  in it making a big BhOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Then he show me how to blow in the trumpet. Cool free music lesson by an expert!

I continue my walk around the area of the stupa. In a shop I found a Tibetan shirt, I walked off the shop forgetting my sunglasses. The guy ran after me!

I admire one last time Bodhanath, it was time to leave. I made a pit stop at the hotel and discover they gave me the wrong items in my laundry and that I was missing a long sleeve TShirt.  I spoke to reception then I was I was off again to collect my Thangas. Myolosangama was even more beautiful! She was riding a beautiful tiger with Everest/Sagarmatha in the background! When I came to collect my Wheel of life the guy wanted to make a picture of it!

When I pass a Jewellery shop a guy spotted my bracelet I bought in Dephrung Monastery (a cheap one!) and asked me if he could quickly draw a model. But quickly he started to offer me some dodgy business deal in order to avoid paying taxes, I was off in seconds telling him he was talking to the wrong person!

In the evening I went to a restaurant and here I saw some of the people I met at the Chinese/Nepal border so I sat with them. Most of them are from Brazil. On my way back with the bottle of beer in my hand, I bought another bracelet.

Day 34: Tuesday 07 October 2008

I woke up early, then made my way to the airport super early!

I arrive at the security at the entrance of the airport where I saw a woman extremely unhappy about the staff. The staff was causing her hassle because of her Buddha. Then it was turn, they were causing me grief claiming I should have declared it to customs. That I should have a paper to say I can export it from the shop. I told them that  it was not an antique and there were thousands of these in the city, but they did not take my answer, so off I went to the Nepal Customs office where they told me it was okay!

I went to pay for my departure tax and queued up for check in.

I went through passport control; another section of travel was now over. It is 10.00.

My flight with Royal Nepal is over 1 hour late, acceptable with their standards!

Next to my seat was sitting a nice Chinese guy, no entertainment on board apart from my MP3 player. The noise of the aircraft was very loud!

I landed at Hong Kong okay, went throught immigration, pick up my luggage then  through customs pretty quick.

I wanted to take some money out from the ATM, but my card did work, so annoying!!!! So I went to the rip-off bureau de change to change my emergency cash: 100$

It was so late that I took a Taxi to the Ibis hotel. Quick ride as no traffic.

I was happy to settle down in my room.

Chapter 13

Hong Kong and Macau

Day 35: Wednesday 08 October 2008

I heard on the news that there were 2 small earthquakes near Lhasa. The epicentre of the first quake, which measured magnitude 6.6, was around 50 miles west of Lhasa. A second, 5.1 magnitude, quake struck shortly afterwards around 60 miles west of the city.  At least nine people died and  hundreds of houses collapsed. I feel sad for all the people affected.

I left the hotel and walk to Tin How temple which was my first visit of the day. Then I saw the old post office, Pak Tai temple.

I continue my walk to the Hong Kong Park. It was a paradise, especially in the walk-in aviary. It was really great! The Olympics era was still there! Later I continue to the Hong Kong Botanical gardens, it was very nice as well. It was nice to find this oasis of calm in the middle of this urban sprawl.

I was tired after this long walk so took a tram to Sheug Wan, and then went back to my hotel in North Point by tram as well. I took the opportunity to watch the locals going by their daily life.

In the evening I went for dinner in a local restaurant next to my hotel. It was really nice observing the locals away from the tourists.

Day 36: Thursday 09 October 2008

I made my way on the MTR (Mass Transit System), the HONG Kong Metro to Lantau island. I got off at Tung Chung to board the cable car Ngong Ping 360 to Po-Lin. I arrived just before the opening at 10.00. Inside my cabin there’s was a guy taking hundreds of photos of everything and nothing. The highlight of the car was seeing the new Hong Kong Chek Lap Kok airport. Gary would have been happy to see that! The 5.7 Km ride lasted for 25 minutes.

There was also the stupid “smile for the camera” thing. I got off the cable car and made my way to a show called “walking with Buddha”. The show tells the history and experience of the life of Buddha. Ngong Ping “village” is just for tourist, it just a replica of architecture and just overprice shops and restaurants.

Later, I made my way up the Tian Tan Buddha. The Tian Tan Buddha Statue is the world’s largest, seated, outdoor, bronze Big Buddha statue. The entrance including the small museum is 23HK$, it includes a free bottle of water and an ice-cream!

The Tian Tan Buddha Statue is the world’s largest, seated, outdoor, bronze Big Buddha statue. Constructed from 202 bronze pieces, the statue weighs over 250 tonnes and soars 34 metres into the air. This impressive landmark opened in 1993 and is considered the major centre for Buddhism in Hong Kong; it is also a major tourist attraction for the region.

Sitting atop 268 steps, the Tian Tan Buddha Statue is positioned on a lotus throne, surrounded by eight smaller bronze statues representative of the gods, or immortals. The statue is so named as its base is a model of Tian Tan, the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.  The Buddha Statue’s right hand is raised, representing the removal of affliction; his left hand rests on his knee, signifying human happiness. While most Buddha statues face South, Tian Tan casts his serene gaze towards the North, making this statue unique amongst its peers.

I made my way down the Buddha and went to the Po Lin Monastery where I also got good view of the monastery. later I went for walk on the trails of Lantau island. It was a very nice walk, at one stage I had great views of the Buddha. At one point I reach some wooden panels, it was a memorial of some kind. I also walked on the windom bath where a lot of plants and trees were labelled in English and Latin. I made my way back to village where I caught a bus to the small fishing village of Tai-O. It was only a 20 min bus ride. There a lot of fisherman selling dry fish. I even saw a puffer fish!  The village was very pretty. Before making my way back I stopped for beer at a local bar. it was amazing to think we were a few kilometres away from a major urban centre. The village was so quiet!

After my expedition to the fishing village I went to see another show  called the “Monkey tale”. The story of three monkey friends on a voyage of greed, gluttony and friendship. They were trying to get an apple stuck  in a temple using funny tricks. The morale of the story is “You get a lot more by giving than trying to get”.

After that I made my way down by the cable car to the MTR and back to the hotel.

In the evening I had dinner at my local.

In the evening I was watching the news when I heard about the tragic plane crash in Lukla in the Everest Region. It is the airport I used when I went trekking last year. Only the pilot survived, but 18 tourists from Germany and Australia died. The crah happened because of the fog, the plane caught fire when it crashed. It was a plane from Yeti airline, a DHC-6 Twin Otter. I felt concerned as flew on the same aircraft on the same route going on the same trek as these tourists.

Day 37: Friday 10 October 2008

Macau Day!

I was ready to be picked up at the hotel at 7.30, I started to jump on the bus when I realised I left my camera, so I ran back to get it! I was dropped at the ferry terminal, the woman was talking to me like if I was a American: “You will have to show your passport and then…”

The ferry ride was nice and quick, only 55 minutes away. When I excited in Macau the local guide met me along with 40 others, it was “follow the green flag” type of tour!! My God! Jesus help me!! I hate it already! But this is the only way to do it! The bus was full, so I sat next to the driver on the tour guide seat! I had to wear a special sticker on me, my god! i removed it and later claimed that I lost it!

Macau was the first European enclave in Asia, Macau was returned to the Chinese soveireinty in 1999 after four and a half centuries of Portuguese rule. The tiny 27. sq KM territory consists of the Macau Peninsula, which is attached to China, and the islands of Taipa and Coloane connected by bridges to the mainland. About 95% of the population is ethnic Chinese and most visitors are gamblers drawn to the casinos. When Portuguese traders first arrived in Macau in the 16th Century they landed on the coast and asked the name of the place. It is said that the natives replied A-Ma-Gao (the Bay of A-Ma). The Portuguese subsequently named the penninsula Macau and administered the enclave community until its handover in 1999.

Our first stop was to see a golden Lotus flower, the symbol of Macau. Macau is full of casinos not a lot remains from the portugese colonial buildings. Macau is the Las Vegas of the East. You can even find the Venitian with the Gondoliers and the “Grand Canal”. In 2007 Macau more than 7$ billion in gambling revenue, exciding Las Vegas! We saw the Friendship monument which was a statue by the sea.

Later we stopped at a tourist trap to sample some cookies called “hung yan bang” which tasted like Spanish Touron and some portugese Egg tarts with creamy custard in a puff patry base. It was an excuse to make us buy stuff in this over priced tourist shop. After that we visited A Ma Temple which dates back from the 15th century, it was established by fisherman.

Along our way we saw the Macau Tower, the house of the last governor, the house of Stanley Hope who owns most of the casinos in Macau. Then the most exciting part of the trip, the facade of St Paul cathedral. Built in 1602, the building was destroyed by ire over 100 years later, leaving only the facade seen today.This building has become  the marketing logo of Macau. Next to St Paul was the Macau Museum installed in the old Fortaleza do Monte or the old forteress. The fort was established in 1626 as a deffensice stucture for the city. From the top of the fort I had nice views over the city. Macau as 17000 people per sq Km, making it one of the most densly populated city in the world.

We stopped at the Babylon Casino in Fisherman’s warf to have a buffet lunch with obviously free time to gamble after lunch. I went for a walk instead. After our lunch we went to the top of the 338 metres Macau tower. It is the 10th tallest in the world. From here you could sky-walk around the tower or budgy jump as well; but it is very expensive! The view of the city were great from up here.

After the visit to the tower, it was time to come back to Hong Kong.

I enjoyed Macau, but that’s sit been there done that, I don’t think I will be back.  At leat it gives me extra stamps on my passport!

In the evening I went to Kowloon to watch the “Symphony of lights” over the Victoria Harbour. It is a soud and light show performed by the buildings alonf the water front. It was amazing!

I had a quick walk in Kowloon then went back to the hotel.

Day 38: Saturday 11 October 2008

I made by way by train to the Thousand Buddha Temple, after climbing the 431 steps, I arrived in the Temple, and it was really beautiful. All the little Buddha statues were donated by worshippers. It was very pleasant to be there. The temple was overlooking the crowded housing town of Sha Tin. In temple there are in fact 13000 Buddhas!

The locals here are really devoted.

Later I made my way back to the city, the train was very busy! As I could not get to the Peak earlier because it was cloudy I decided to go today, as it was also my last day. I went to the tram station and wanted to take the tram up: BIG MISTAKE!!!! It was freaking busy, it was heaving! The free platform which I saw 4 years ago with Gary is now an expensive Cafe. To access to the viewing platform you had to pay an extra fee, which I choose not to. It was really mad up there!

The path around the peak was a bit quieter next to the entrance of the tram station I saw the Greenline tours with the Americans and other tourists wearing proudly there stickers.

All the people got on my nerves, after having a look over Hong Kong I decided to leave this hell hole and go back down. The queue for the tram back down was bigger than the way up, a guy told me that there was at least 45 minutes wait. What!! 45 minutes, well it is quicker and more pleasant to walk down man! So that’s what I did, and it took me 23 minutes without counting my stop in the middle of the forest. It was a very pleasant walk and I highly recommend it!

Late afternoon I went for a beer at my local. Tibet sounded so far away now, I still miss the guys.

I enjoyed my last dinner in Honk Kong, I took roasted duck.

Day 39: Sunday 12 October 2008

I took a Taxi early morning to make my way to the airport. When I arrived at check in I discover than Gary used his miles to pay for a Business Upgrade, I was very pleased and surprised. It made my day. The flight back as you can imagine was very nice and uneventful.

CONCLUSION

Well, that’s it I have done it, after years of dreaming about Tibet! It was a really fabulous Country with fascinating people! Riding the train on highest railway line in the world was also impressive.

It was nice to know people who are not material, who do not have the consumerism spirit but are still happy. In some part of Tibet foreigners are still a curiosity and the locals will stare at us. I was also surprised to see nomads in the middle of nowhere with mobiles phones.

Some people really made my trip: The Tibetans in general but in particularly the Monk who blessed my Lonely Planet book in Lhasa. The pilgrims who invited me to follow them all the way to the Potala. The nuns of Shigatse who offered me a cup of Yak butter tea. The little granny who invited me to join her on the Kora in Shigatse.  It was sometime frustrating having a language barrier as at a few times I pointed with enthusiasm to the Tibetan version of my Phrasebook but the other person did not know how to read.

In China everything is so structured, neat and in order. They also have much respect for the foreign guest.

I loved everywhere we went but the greatest place was Guge, it was something magical about it. It was so remote as well. I loved as well the Palhalupuk monastery in Lhasa, it is a small gem! I love seeing Mt Kailash as well, it was very impressive. The Potala palace once the symbol of the Tibetan travel dream desappointed me due to the lack of life inside, but was still impressive with its rich heritage inside.

It is a shame that a lot of Tibetan treasures were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, but we can’t reverse history.

Tibet will remain my number 1 trip for all! I highly recommend it to anyone!

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