Introduction
You might think that there is a spelling error in my title… this is not the case I can assure you..! I wanted to play on words.
A Wat is a monastery in Thai Language (Wat=What).
It has been a number of years that the project of visiting the ruins of Angkor was in the back of mind…this year is the time to do it. I was eager to discover the marvellous remains of the Khmer Empire. I wanted also to know more about their culture…. the culture of Cambodia and the lives of Cambodian people. All this I also want to share it with you.
Before arriving in Cambodia I spend a few days in Bangkok in order to acclimatise. My visit of the ruins of Angkor will be followed by the capital city of Cambodia: Phnom Penh including the surrounding villages. After leaving Cambodia I will then takes you to magical Laos (please see my next blog to be published after that one).
All my photos can also be seen on this site. Please click on “My photos”.
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Day 1: Monday 15 February 2010
My bag has been ready since yesterday…! The big day is finally here! After almost a year of labour…holiday time!
I gave a good-bye kiss to beloved kitty Onyx…I am going to miss her a lot! She will probably wonder where I am.
Gary escorted me to the airport… it is so kind from him! We left promptly at 05.00 am to take the first Underground train. Obviously we were waiting by the main entrance and they open the other one first but ours so we had to walk around. Once at Victoria we jumped on the 06.00 Gatwick express…very nice relaxing ride to the airport. It is good to have the discount as I paid only 4.25£. After arriving at Gatwick we took the shuttle bus and made it to the check in desks of Qatar Airways… cool … there was hardly any queues.
I left Gary at 07.00 and it took me about 15 minutes to go through security. I know some people who would have complained if it took them that long! Colleagues will understand what I mean! I boarded the plane which left 30 minutes late. I had 2 seats just for me … great! The plane landed on at time in Doha at 19.15 local time, it is so annoying having to do the transfer to the terminal by bus. I hate it…! Also in Doha passengers have to go through security again, the immigration hall was very busy..I waited 25 minutes. It was soon time to board my plane for Bangkok, because of a medical transfer I was bumped out of my original seat. I was seating next to some Italians on a tour. I watch films almost all the way to Bangkok.
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Day 2: Tuesday 16 February 2010
By 07.00 local time in Bangkok I was exiting the airport..the arriving process was very smooth, almost straight through immigration and did not wait long for my bag to come …. that’s the way I like it! I made my way to the taxi stand and boarded a taxi to the Novotel in Siam Square. The taxi ride to the hotel took about 45 minutes which is really good. My room was not ready so I went outside to grab some food. I found a small food market where all the locals were picking up a quick grab before making their way to work I guess. Typically local eating places… I chose fried rice with beef. I am not really sure if it Breakfast or lunch..but who cares!…I am on holiday! It is now 08.20 in the morning, Bangkok is truly awake! I walked further down the street to see a temple but it was closed because of refurbishments.
I went back to the Novotel, check in and relax a bit in my room (933). From my window I was able to see the BTS sky train station of Siam Square as well as other buildings.
After my rest I exited the hotel and walk to the nearby Jim Thompson’s House. At the entrance just before buying my ticket I spotted the little Phi house or spirit house. To protect themselves and show respect, people often have a small Phi house, and place it in a special spot. The Phi is always sheltered from the sun with food and drink.
Jim Thompson’s made his fortune from exporting Thai silk. His private collection of antiques and handicrafts from all over South East Asia can be found here. His residence made in teak wood rescued from derelic houses is really delightful. The small garden is a peace haven; it was hard to imagine that I was in the middle of Bangkok.
After leaving Jim Thompson’s house I walked a with along the Klong San sap … which is a canal. I made my way back towards Siam Square… walking in Bangkok I have to say is not very friendly as in order to cross the road you have to go up the walkway then go down again … I went to the Erawan shrine. It is a statue of Brahma the 4 headed Hindou god of creation built in 1954 to appease the supposed evil forces that were taking the lives of construction workers. Other calamities also happened in the construction what is now the Grand Hyatt Erawan. The misfortunes were caused, it seemed, by starting the construction on an unfavourable date. After the shrine was erected; construction deaths stopped and the hotel grew very prosperous.
I had a look around at the expensive shops and saw a small market celebrating the Chinese New Year of the Tiger… I bought myself a pineapple juice. I took the opportunity to buy spare batteries for my small Lumix camera as they cheaper than Europe and that I will probably need it as I always take lots of photos. I lost my glasses…day 2 starting well…so I bought a new pair.
I later went on the internet for 40 Bahts/minute which is about 80 pence. The Novotel was charging 240 Bahts/minutes!
In the evening I bought some chicken and went to bed early as I was steel feeling tired after my long flight.
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Day 3: Wednesday 17 February 2010
I watch the France 2 news on TV5 Monde where I heard the terrible news about the train crash in Bruxelles, it was very sad news and I can only feel sorry for the people involved.
I left the hotel pretty early wanted to make my way to the Grand Palace by the Sky Train and then a boat on the Chao Phraya River.
I took the Bangkok Transit System or BTS sky train for short (Thais call it rot fai faa). This elevated rail network has a total length of 55 Kms and opened in 1999. Bangkok also has a Metro but I did not use it. I bought a card allowing me to use 20 rides rather than buying ticket all the time and keep looking for change. It was a bit busy as it was the rush hour but still it was a very nice ride to the central pier. The Sky Train is clean and efficient. On the platforms there are arrows pointing where passengers should wait in order to people of the train first. By this process passengers waiting to get in are not in the way of the passengers getting out. Amazingly people obey this rule and the in out/in process is very quick (see my photos in Album 1 of Bangkok). I think a few European cities could take some examples from this as well as educating their passengers. After about a 15 minutes ride I arrived at my stop Saphran Taksin where I exited and walk to the Central Pier.
When I arrived at the Central Pier I boarded immediately the Chao Phraya Express boat. The Chao Phraya River has a total length of 372 Kms and is the major artery of Bangkok. The names means “River of the Kings” The Chao Phraya Express boats runs about every 15 minutes and has designated piers along the river. One person on board whistle in a different way to give signal to the captain that he can go and so on. Whilst on the boat I watch Bangkok going past and life on the river. I saw small tail boats to big barges.
I eventually made it to Tha Chang pier from where I walk to the Grand Palace. At the exit I bought a small bottle of water at the small market. When I arrived at the Grand Palace avoided people wanted to scam me, it was not opened yet so I waited. I saw a few military personnel walking in.
When it was open I rushed to ticket counter and walk straight t in to take my photos before the crowd arrived I wanted to be there before 9.00 to avoid tour groups and going later was not an option as the Palace closes at 15.00. The buildings reflect over 200 years of Thai history. It was the right time as well as the sun was shining on all the building and was on the correct side to take great pictures.
My first stop was the Temple of the Emerald Buddha; it is one of the most venerated sites in Thailand. I took my shoes off and then entered the temple. The Emerald Buddha itself was much smaller than I thought. Buddha is sitting on a golden gilded throne. The costumes of the Buddha are changes 3 times a year by the King himself depending the season. The Emerald Buddha is in fact carved from a block of green jade and was discovered in a stupa in Chiang Rai in 1434. It was thirst thought the stone was an emerald… thus the Legend. In was then taken to Laos until 1778. I walk around the temple on the outside admiring the Garudas. Garuda is a mystical bird man and is a kind of guardian.
Then I fell in love with the Demon warriors that protect Budha on the Phrasart Phra Debidorn Golden stupa (see photos Album 2). It was really beautitful. Then I went to the Upper terrace where I saw a small scale model of Angkor Wat. The buildings were all amazing. I saw a Golden Naga on the Pantheon. The Naga is the 7 head snake, a protector at the entrance of Temples. Then I reached the Phra Siratana Chedi. It was in gold colour.
The visit was absolutely fabulous, now it is absolutely heaving… it was very busy! I made my way the Dusit Group where the government buildings are. It was good timing as I saw the changing of the guards. They are all wearing white uniforms. As I exited the crowd is getting worst than ever I walked away from the Grand Palace and went to a meditation school for a well deserved refreshment located away from the tourists traps.
I made my way to the Amulet Market where various images of Buddha and other Buddhist statues are sold. I continue my walk making a few stops along the route to Wat Po. Before entering the temple I saw a small park where workers where having a nap I decided to join them as it was so hot I needed a quick rest. Feeling much better after my nap I bough a bottle of Pepsi to which the guy pored into a plastic bag, a great idea to keep the bottles to recycle.
I entered Wat Pho avoided paying the entrance ticket as I entered by the side door, it is very cheeky indeed! Wat Pho isthe oldest Buddhist Wat (temple) in Bangkok as it was built in 1781. It is also the home of the longest reclining Buddha in Thailand and also home to the traditional Thai medicine. After walking around the Temple and seeing various chapels I made my way to the Temple’s main attraction: the Reclining Buddha, well it will be hard to miss spot the crowd and you will spot the Buddha! The reclining Buddha representing the Buddha in Nirvarna (death) is 46 metres long and 15 metres high. The Buddha is made of plaster on a brick core but is covered in gold leaves giving a great luminosity than can not but to look and look again. The temples grounds were really quiet all the tourist mainly on big tour groups were all at the Buddha it was hard to get around but managed to find good spots for my photos.
Still feeling enchanted by my visit to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho I walk towards the pier on the river a few “helpful” locals try to help me ..smelling a scam I quickly pack it and kept walking. A few tourist got scams by some charming locals tempting them into gem stones… and other various typical tourist’s scams.
I took a boat to cross the Chao Phraya river and arrived at Wat Arun or Temple of the Dawn. It was named after the Indian god of dawn Aruna. The missile shaped silhouette of this temple is used in the TAT logo. The central Khmer style tower is 82 metres high, after climbing its steps,; I was rewarded by great views over the city. The temple is decorated with shards of porcelain. Statues of mystical Yaksha demons half bird- half human can also be found. The temple was very nice I sat on bench under the shade of tree and just relax for a while.
Before taking the boat back I walk around the temple and saw a quiet side of Bangkok with small canals or Khlongs. I later cross the river again and took the boat back to the main pier after waiting for a long time.
I went back to the hotel, took a shower and went to the internet cafe to check on my emails. I went to try to Fish massage I saw at the front of the hotel, it was very weird as you deep your feet into an aquarium and some special fishes will come and eat the dead skin of your feet. After the massage the skin feels very smooth and soft.
For dinner I went to the noodle bar located in the front of the hotel, very nice and very cheap. A total cost of 140 Bahts for fried rice with Pork and a bottle of the local brew.. . a Shinga Beer.
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Day 4: Thursday 18 February 2010
I left the hotel at 07.00 am and took the Sky train to Victory monument. From there I took a mini-bus at the destination of Ayutthaya the ancient capital of Thailand. Mini buses are made for mini people, my friends… I have to say this if you are tall or fat I personally do not recommend this type of transport. It cost me 60 Bahts it was really cheap. The bus left at 07.30 sharp! Inside the bus there were only Thai people and I was the only foreigner, I started to wonder what happened to the other independent tourists??? As we were driving, it was mostly all built up areas which was a bit unexpected for me. After an hour we pulled into the centre of Ayutthaya at 08.40.
Ayutthaya was founded by king Rama Thibodi I in 1350 and was the capital of Siam until its destructction in 1767 by the Burmese army. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Ayutthaya means “invincible”.
Once in the city I took the lazy option to hire a tuk-tuk. A tuk-tuk is a 3 wheeled motorbike buggy. The name of my driver was Ous. They charged a flat rate of 200 Baths/hour so I booked for 4 and see how far it will take me. In my mind it was the best move as it was too big to walk around as I wanted to see the far away temples and too hot to cycle as well also I did not to bother to look at the map every 10 minutes.
I started my visit with Wat Yai Chaimongkhon; This Monastery was founded by King U-Thong in 1357 in remembrance of two monks who had gone to study Buddhism in Ceylon and had died of Cholera. The Chedi is over 60 metres high and was built in 1593 . Followed by Wat Phanam Choeng with its 19 metres high Buddha. I continue afterward to visit Wat Mahathat. Wat Mahathat is one of the historically important monasteries. The construction began under the reign of Phra borom Rathirat I in 1374 and was completed during the reign of King Ramesuan. It was destroyed in 1767. I kept the best attraction at the end; the famous Buddha’s head. As a mark of respect unlike most tourists I sat down straight away in front of Buddha. Even so some people were asked to sit down by the guards they totally ignore his order. I think this is really rude! All that remains of this sandstone Buddha is its head, while the body has disapeared beneath the Bodhi tree.
After we left Wat Mahathat we carried on to see where the elephants were, but I did not ride on them as it was very expensive for what it was and heard reports that the elephants were not very well treated.. I will come back to that subject in my blog on Laos. Then we entered Wat Monkhon Bophit and next door to it was Wat Pra Si Samphet, the site was established in 1448. The stupas contains the ashes of former kings. It was really nice and quiet as well a very peaceful environment!
I jump back on my tuk-tuk and I made a brief stop at Wat Lokaya Sutha a reclining Buddha of 42 metres long for 8 metres high. My next stop was Wat Chai Watthanaram, this temple was built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong. I continue to enjoy my tuk-tuk ride when I reach Wat Phu Kao Thong; it means the Golden Mountain. The pagoda got 12 angles. I had the temple to myself not a soul in sight! My fours hours were nearly up I am really hungry by now we had time to do one more temple then my ride was over.
I went to grab lunch at the market but there was nowhere to sit probably when I pointed toward a chair the food seller smiled and grab it and show me where to sit. Some locals were looking at me smiling … not a foreigners in sight.. where are they???? … I spotted most them eating inside some tourist restaurants in town. In many temples I saw big tour groups it was rush rush to time to wonder around by yourself.. I am really glad I have done Ayutthaya independently.
After lunch I did not feel like coming back to Bangkok.. I spotted Ous and I asked him if I could go around for another hour, here I am back inside my tuk-tuk! Our first after lunch stop was Wat Ratchaburana which was built during the reign of King Borom Rachthirat II in 1424. We saw a few more smaller temple sincluding one with a lovely Boddhi tree.
My hour was up already I decided to go back to Bangkok before the rush hour starts. The bus was about to leave and took the last seat seating at the front next to the driver so I had the best view of the house! May be the bus was waiting for me before to go? The ride back was very pleasant we drove by the old airport of Bangkok as well. Same as the way in only Thais but myself.
At 16.30 I was back at the hotel and welcomed to my bedroom with a yellow orchid on my pillow. I took the opportunity to use the pool and relax after this hot and sweaty day.
In the evening I went back too “my local” . I went to the 7/11 to buy my breakfast for tomorrow as well as another beer.
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Day 5: Friday 19 February 2010
I left the hotel at 08.15 and my way to the BTS station to go to Choi Nonsi in order to to do my “Rickshaw and hike” tour. From the BTS station I took a taxi to continue my journey to the Recreational Bangkok Biking office. The office was located in a comfy upmarket suburb of Bangkok; I was there early so I took the advantage to do a small stroll through the neighbourhood.
Our guide was Top, funny name for a guide! Joining me were 2 Belgium couples with 2 small children… great…! A couple from India and another from Scotland. After crossing the main road within minutes it was like being in a small village, our first stop was at Wat Chong Nonsi. The Wat seen from the exterior was very colourful with the usual Nagas at the front of the temple.
A little bit about Buddhism in Thailand: The primary aim of Buddhism is to overcome the suffering of this world by salvation through enlightenment. The only surviving school of Hinayana (lesser vehicle) system originated from Sri Lanka and incorporates elements of Hinduism and local beliefs. It predominates in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. The Buddhism I saw so far was so different than the one I saw in Tibet (School of Mahayana – Greater vehicle). Every Thai man is expected to undergo training as a monk usually just before he marries often for 3 months.
After exciting the temple almost opposite we went to visit a small family run salt factory still operating in the traditional style. It was interesting to see this. After leaving the salt factory we walk through a slum, but still people were smiling at us I greeted them with a big smiling Sawadee! (that ‘s mean Hello! in Thai!). The locals did not seem to mind seeing a bunch of foreigners looking at their houses and neighbourhood (Ratrangsan).
We stop at a tiny pier behind a shop to board a tail boat in order to cross the Chao Phraya River the couple with the kids were starting to be annoying … but well still bearable! The other side of Bangkok was something I would have never imagined seeing in this city it was a jungle with mangrove. It was really pleasant to walk aroun this lush green vegetation. I saw a huge spider as well, jack fruits…. At the end we reach a National Park, we were given so fish food for the residents of the pond. It was quiet relaxing and fun to feed the fishes. On the way back we boarded our rickshaws.
Along the way we went on a big road, I was not driving thanks goodness for that! We went underneath a big bridge and stop for lunch in a restaurant next to the river; the meal was very nice. After lunch we took the rickshaws again to Klong Lat Luang pier and cross the river again. Back into real Bangkok our tour was over!
It was really interesting to make this trip to the other and very different side of Bangkok. As a tourist you mostly only see the loud and busy side of the city. With this tour I got to know a green, quiet and traditional side of the city.
I share a taxi with the Indian couple back to Chit Lom, once near the hotel I treated myself to a Thai massage for 300 Bahts… cheap!
In the evening I went back to my local, it is cheap and convenient!
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Day 6: Saturday 20 February 2010
I left the hotel early and arrived at the airport with plenty of time to check-in. I was on my way to Siem Reap and in a short time in the ruins of Angkor! Siem Reap is the gateway to the temples of Angkor.
I walked around the duty free area of the airport and after finding a quiet corner I went for a nap. I boarded my Bangkok Airways flight and an hour later I touch down in Siam Reap airport the exit through immigration thanks to my e-visa was really quick a record as it took me less than 3 minutes from the moment I push the door of immigration and when I arrived at the luggage hall!
When I exited the airport I found my guide named Gareth followed my car with my driver Mr Kaing. On the way to town Gareth told me that Cambodia especially the town of Siem Reap was badly hit with the recession and the fall in tourism numbers call the lost of a lot of jobs in all the industries. I dropped my bag to the hotel and we made our way to Angkor Wat and it was barely 10.00! We stopped at the entrance where I got my pass with a photo ID, this is due to scam from tourists where they used to transfer their pass to each others.
First of all there was a sign at the entrance the do’s and don’t. Visitors have to accept and obbey the restrictions such as Do not touch, do not photograph, do not enter…. Do not touch is important as every small touch becomes harmful when repeated 1000 times a day. Tourists are also asked to wear appropriate clothing as the sites of Angkok are living temples so shorts and sleeves less T-shirts are a no-no.. althought I did some tourists with some. No need to say than graffitis are a big no-no as well. Obviously Do not litter is on the list as well as avoiding being noisy by not speaking loudly or shouting.
Angkor Wat is the most famous monument of the complex of Angkor. It was built by king Suryavarman II from 1113 to 1150. In the ancient times the temple Hindu at the time was called Vrah Vishnuloka, the Sacred Abode of Vishnu. The present name means the Royal City” this was due to the religious revolution effected by Jayavarman II in the 13th century when the Khmer empire adopted Buddhism. Angkor Wat was transformed from a Vishnuite sanctuary to a wat which means monastery in Thai.
I enter the temple by walking on the causeway of the Western entrance. The entrance at the West is unusual as usually it is by the East. The most likely explanation is that the temple was dedicated to Vishnu who was associated with the West. It was also used as the King’s tomb, hence the choice of the Western orientation. The West (sunset) is the domain of the dead.
We stopped at the pond to see the reflection of the wat silhouette on the water. It was really amazing to see this building some building materials were hiding some part of the temples it was still breathtaking to see thee amazing Khmer ruins. We carried on walking towards the ruins and bypassing the Libraries. They go in pairs and are found in front of the entance of temples. This is a traditional name for them, and they are more likely to have been a kind of a shrine than to keep sacred texts.
As I entered the Temple of Angkor Wat I was greeted by the statue of Vishnu. Vishnu is the Preserver and Protector, this eight arms deity is popular amongst worshippers. I carried on to the gallery to see some carvings depicting the Battle of Kurukshetra. As I was still walking in the temple I was in admiration in front of some carvings called Asparas. Asparas are celestial dancers who entertain the gods and are sensual rewards of kings and heroes who die bravely.
I exited the temple briefly to look at the temple from the eastern entrance and then walk back in and queued for the Bakan tower as only 100 persons are allowed at anyone time and no more than 30 minutes. I was lucky enough to be able to climb on the Bakan which the upper terrace as was closed to tourists for some time.
In ruins I also saw many headless Buddha’s victim of human stupidity as the head was taken to be resold. How can people chop the head of a Buddha..!!! Bad karma on them!
It was a really good start! We stopped for lunch.
After lunch we made our way to the complex of Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom is one of the largest of the Khmer cities. It was founded by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. Angkor Thom consists of Bayon Temple, Baphuon, the Terrace of the Elephants, Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace and other smaller temples.
We approached by the South gate as the Guardian demons welcomed us as well as the smiling face of Lokesvara. Lokesvara (Avalokitesvara) is the Compationate Bodhishiva. She chose not pass into Nirvana but to help to bring enlightments to humans. Then we arrived at Bayon Temple where I show my pass at the entrance. There is a dispute about the numbers of towers. There were originally 49 towers, but some schollars thought there were 54. Today only 37 are standings. Most are carved with 4 faces on each cardinal point. At the entrance we saw some bas-reliefs depicting the battle scene is opposing the Khmers against the Chams.
The visit was really amazing I fell in love with this temple I really love the peaceful smiling face of Lokisvaras. This temple is really magical! We left and had a look at the North gate to look at the elephants supporting the gate.
I continue my visit by just looking at Baphuon temple which was closed for renovations. I saw some monks in orange robes. Most monks pass their time studying Buddhist scriptures and practicing meditation. But many others play an active role in daily life, sometimes as teachers sometimes as advisors in village’s disputes.
My next stop was at the Terrace of the Elephants. The terrace is 300 metres long. It was avenue for parades and ceremonies. It serves as a sort of balcony for the King’s residence. The stairways are guarded by the 3 headed elephants and lions. The light was not as its best but never mind. It was still an amazing site. within a short walk of the terrace of the Elephants we continues to the Phimeannakas, Tep Pranam Temple, Preah Palilay which was located in forest it was great as I had some shade at least! The temple dates from the 12th century. We ended the visit of Angkor Thom with Preah Pithu.
It was really an amazing day, WAT A VIEW!!!!!! ….. in Cambodia! More to come tomorrow!
At the evening we climb up to Phom Bakeng for the sunset but the sun decided to hide so my guide told me that there is not going to be a sunset, so I beat down the crowds and left after a few minutes.
I had a really great day my long awaited Angkor day was over. I felt so happy to be able to see that!
I am exhausted!
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Day 7: Sunday the 21 February 2010
I left the hotel at 08.00 am and my first stop of the day was Preah Khan. The temple dates from 1191. It was previously used as a Buddhist monastery and school. In harmony with the architecture of Ta Phrom (see album 2 of Angkor Temples) which was dedicated to Jayavarman VII’s mother, Preah Khan is dedicated to his father. The temple is the home of really nice carvings but was also taken over by the jungle as trees was growing over the stones. At the entrance of the Causeway there was a beautiful Naga. A Naga is a 7 sometimes 5 headed cobra snake with mythological connection. It is associated with water, fertility, rainbows and creation. This one featured as well with a representation of Garuda which is a mystical bird-man. Next to the causeway was also a fairly nice preserved Library.
Our second stops was at Neak Pean. Neak Pean means “coiled serpents” from the encoiled Nagas that encircled the temple. The Prasat (temple) is 14 metres height. Some scholars believe that Nealk Pean is a representation of Anavatapta, the mystical Himalayan lake where the Devine beings bathed and which was fountainhead of the four great rivers of India. Thus the 2 Nagas are the King and Queen of the lake, whose waters were used to consecrate the Cakravartin, the universal sovereign. Jayavarman VII therefore gave his kingdom a lake that not only had healing properties but was the source of the Royal power.
I started to go around the temple and my first stop was the north chapel where I saw a spigot or Mask in the shape of an elephant was the emblem of water. The water will flow from the main pool to the small pool through the spigot. The waters were though to have healing properties. Then into the West chapel, the horse was the symbol of the air. I continue to the South Chapel with a lion which in the symbol of fire. To finish I saw a human feature in the East Chapel which symbolises the elements of Earth. Next to the tower sitting on a lotus flower shape was a sculpture of Balaha which is a manifestation of Lokeshvara with the merchant Simhala and his companions holding on to his two sides… they have been saved from a shipwreck… it is a symbol of rebirth. The visit was very pleasant as there were no tourists around.
After a short car drive we had a quick stop to look at Ta Som where the roots of the dead fig tree are crashing the gate. Then we stopped at East Meabon. East Meabon was dedicated to Shiva in 952. It rises on 3 levels and is crowned by 5 towers. The temple was really nice I was welcomed by some sandstone elephants guarding the temple. On the upper terrace I saw a Jasmine tree, I took the liberty to pick up the flowers that fell on the floor. The smell was so nice! Any one for tea????
I continued to Preah Rup Temple. It dates from the 10th century. The view was worth it. Similar to East Meabon. I think I will come back here for tomorrow’s sunrise as the view sound really great.
Shortly after we went to Banteay Kdei. The temple dates from the 12th Century. It was fonctinating as a Buddhist temple. Today the temple is much deteriorated as bad quality sandstone was used during its construction. Most of the towers were held by ropes, and some areas are block off. Inside I spotted a Devata carved on a multi coloured stone; I mainly noticed the earrings!
It was lunch time but I declined the offer f going for lunch now and suggested to my guide that it will be better to visit Ta Phrom now as everybody will be having lunch. I was right as we were entering the grounds of the temple everybody was coming out it was like a big wave of people, I was trying to walk against the flow it was hard but I eventually made it to the entrance of the temple.
Ta Phrom temple was consecrated in 1186 by king Jayavarman VII and it is one his major temple. The temple is dedicated to his mother (Prea Khan to his father). Intentionally left partially unrestored, massive fig and ceiba (silk-cotton) trees grow from the towers and corridors offering a jungle atmosphere.
It was one of the temple I was also really looking forward of visiting, it was a good time as well as eveyybody was out for lunch so now I had the temple almost to myself! I posed by the giangantic roots of a Ceiba tree growing over a building. The visit was as pleasant as it was under the jungle I was provided with shade and it was cool! Also it was not as hot as yesterday. It was such a special atmosphere in this temple, the trees were growing everywhere. I also posed in front of a massive sacred fig tree with its roots growing all over a gate. The temple was also rich in different carvings such as Dvarapala (Temple guardian) and Asparas the dancing deities. The guide pointed a few things to me and to be honest I will probably would have mist it without him ….. money well spent!
I stopped for lunch at a small restaurant and started to chat to Martine another French tourist and joined each other for lunch, the food was better than yesterday as well.
After lunch we stopped at Chau Say temple and then by 14.00 I was back in town where after a little walk in the city along the Tonle Sap river I relax for bit and went swimming in the pool.
At many temples I saw children selling things to tourists anything from souvenirs, books to cold drinks. ” Hello madam you buy cold drink?”
According to UNICEF: More than half of Cambodian children aged under 14 are being put to work, forcing them out of school and perpetuating the cycle of poverty in the nation. A lot of them are also begging. Children are used to create compassion. It is usual that foreigners and Cambodians feel pity and give to them money.
Child workers in Cambodia can be found in activities related to agriculture. The poor condition of farm families make that children are used to support the home economy. Child workers can work for about 20 hours per week, most of them without a salary. Child workers in the main urban centers like Phnom Penh, Battambang, Siem Riep, Sihanoukville, Poipet and Kompot work in things like sellers on the streets, markets, commerce, industry, beggars, recyclers and sexual engagement.
According to the charity “Childsafe” there are approximatively 14000 to 24000 street children living in Cambodia. In Siem Reap and around the Angkor temples 1500 children live and work on the streets. All these children are at great risk of being abused and often travelers unwillingly and unknowinly increase their vulnerability. Child Safe produced a leaflets giving tips to tourist and also telling them to report any abuse they have witness. Now most of Motortaxis, tuktuks, hotel restaurant internet cafe staff … have been trained to protect children from abusive situations. Tourists are advised to refrain from giving them money or buying things from them as it keeps them on the streets and at risk rather than being at school. For info please visit www.childsafe-international.org.
Giving money to child beggars promotes child labor and exploitation. In this case, foreign visitors should be advised to restrain of giving money to children. INSTEAD VISITORS SHOULD GIVE TO LOCAL REPUTABLE CHARITIES SUCH AS CHILDSAFE OR UNICEF.
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Day 8: Monday the 22 February 2010
It was an early start for me at 05.15. I went to watch the sunrise at Pre Rup temple, I had the temple to myself as I wanted to avoid the crowds of Angkor Wat and be there before them at Banteay Srei. It was marvellous to see the colours of the sun waking up the temple very slowly. It is such a long time since I saw a sunrise as well. Before the red globe went up I race down to the car as I wanted to see the end over a rice field so off we went. It was a great timing, it was so beautiful to watch! I was so lucky…. it is so nice!
Shortly afterwards I made it to the temple of Banteay Srei. Bantey Srei translates as ” the citadel of women”. The temple was built in 967. Its name was due of the beautiful carvings found in the temple. Before entering the temple I admire the reflection of it on a pond as well as the water lilies on it. So far apart from the caretaker I was the only one shortly to be followed by the other French lady Martine which I met yesterday. The temple’s carvings were really beautiful indeed.
Before I went to the car I stopped for another breakfast as I could not resist the mangos staring at me! I went back to Ta Phrom where I was able to play Lara Croft on my own for one more time… it was nice. I saw some people in flip-flops no comments…! I love this temple. I am glad I was able to come one more time.
On the way back with stop at a small village where I sample palm juice and cadies it was interesting! The locals where very nice as well. By trying to chat with them and trying their language it created laughts and more smiles. It is a good memory to bring by home. I purchased a sarong and a pair of chopsticks made of palm tree.
After that we went to the smaller temple of Prasat Karavan followed by the group of Chinese I saw earlier. At the entrance where my ticket was checked; I saw a dead owl killed by a stary dog.. it was sad! Prasat Kravan was built under the reign of Harshavarman I in the 10th century. Some carvings inside were stunning, it is so well preserved!
I went back to the car and we drove to the Roluos group temples. It was nice to have my own car and driver I was going at my own pace regular cold water was also provided and no bother!
The Roluos group is a collection of monuments representing the remains oh Hariharalaya (9th Century), the first major capital of the Khmer empire. Its takes its name because of the proximity of the town Roluos. Our first temple was Lolei.
Lolei was built on an island in a middle of now a dry baray (small lake). All the towers are in brick, but the site is fenced off as it is menacing to collapse at anytime.
Then the second temple of Preah Ko. Preah Ko displays six brick towers and hosts beautiful carvings as well. Preah Ko meaning Sacred Bull derives its name from the statues of bulls at the front of the central tower. I saw and loved the statue of Nandi. Nandi the sacred bull is the mount (vehicle) of Shiva.
Then we drove a short while and arrived at the last of the three temples: Bakong. Bakong is the most impressive of all the Roluos temples. Bakong stands at 15 metres tall. Bakong represents the first application of the temple-mountain architectural formula on a grand scale and set the tone for the next 400 years. The temple also displays a very early use of stone rather than brick.
Today was my true last day in the Angkor temples so I really took time to look at all the sculptures, the Guardians lions, the Nagas….! It was so magical!
Early afternoon I was back in town so I decided to walk to the National Museum. On my way I saw a monk, it was a pleasure to chat with him. A lot of statues and other artefacts were removes from temples for their protections and are kept in this museum or the other national museum in the capital. The museum depicts all the golden era of the Khmer empire.
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Day 9: Tuesday 23 February 2010
I left the hotel at 08.30 am and jumped into the car on my way to Tonle Sap lake. On the way I stopped along some rice fields to watch the farmers. Cambodia is a big producer as well as consumer of rice. In this area they only collect it once a year but in some other areas usually twice sometimes three times a year. They do not have any machinery only buffalos to help them.
My car was imported as second-hand from Thailand so therefore a left hand drive, but in Cambodia it is a right hand drive. Now the Cambodian government try to restrict the import of left hand drive vehicle.
Shortly afterward I had a photo stop along a lotus field it was very nice. It was really lovely! I saw some flowers, buds and seeds as well. At night the flower closes and sinks underwater, at dawn it rises and opens again. The lotus is also sacred in the Buddhist religion. Untouched by the impurity, lotus symbolizes the purity of heart and mind. The lotus flower represents long life, health, honour and good luck.
A short drive later I arrive at the shore of the lake. I took a small boat, only with the guide no sharing with other tourists, it was great having the boat to myself! We rode on a small canal before reaching Tonle Sap Lake. Along the canals were houses as well and they move as the lake moves as well during the rainy season.
In the wet season, the Tonle Sap Lake is one of the largest freshwater lakes in Asia with 12000Km2. During the dry season the lakes shrinks to 2500Km2. The Tonle Sap River crossing the lake eventually merges with the Mekong in Phom Penhn. The lakes host a huge variety of wildlife but is an important commercial resource providing more than half of all the fish consumed in Cambodia.
Once on the lake I saw the floating villages. All houses are built on a pile of bamboo which allows them to float and the toilets are a hole and everything goes into the water. These villages are mobile as well and move according to the season with the water levels of the lake. They also swim in the same water which really brown and dirty… Over 4,000 families live literally on the boats in the water. In fact, many of those living on the lake are Vietnamese by origin.
I saw a floating church as well as the floating school. At one stage we stop at a house where they were farming crocodiles, they were small comparing to the ones I saw whilst I was in Mexico lest year. The house was also serving snacks and souvenirs for tourists and offers a good view point from the roof as well as a small mueum. I also done something which I will never believe…I kiss ….. a snake! …. yuuuuck!!!!!! It was a baby Python about 1 metre long. I saw later the toddler of the owner running around with the snake around his neck! However if tourist wanted a shot of the little boy with the snake they had to pay for the photo as I found out with a group of well dress Koreans who wanted to take a phpto. I was lucky that they ley me handle the snake without asking me for money! I disagree paying for photo as it encourages explotation of these children, I rather having a firm NO than be be asked for money. They are humans, we are not in a zoo.
Around the house witch must serve as a begging area; I saw an one arm teenager begging for money in a water basin, followed shortly by a woman with a small baby. The teenager was very skillful I must admit to stay afloat, I would be unable to do this! It is a bit heartbreaking but I was advised not to give them personally but chose a NGO instead and give it to them. The water was dirty as well, our foreign bodies wil not be able to handle it I think! Another women with young girls kept crying “banana one dollar !!…banana one dollar…”.
Before I knew it we were back in town! It was really amazing and interesting to see the life on the lake. I order a cat fish, it was huge there was enough to feed the 5000!
In the afternoon I went to the old market which was sprawling with silk, souvenirs, handicrafs vendors. I walked around town again and went for another fish massage. Siem Reap is really geared up for the tourists!
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Day 10: Wednesday 24 February 2010
Mother Boy!!!!! What a start!!!!
I have been really SICK all night… I won’t give you all the details but it coming out from everywhere!
At 09.30 I thinking I was feeling better I went down to see my guide. We went to see a silk farm… however I was still sick and had to leave in the middle of the visit. By 10.30 I was back in my bedroom after taking care of the decoration of the carpet of the reception. This is a short day… nothing exciting to say for today apart that I spend it in my bathroom.
By the way the human body can survive easy 32 hours with no food at all in it!
From now on I am going to stay away from eggs.
In order to add up a touch of humour..watch this video..that’s resume my day…in French!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yP_K55tArRc&feature=related
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Day 11: Thursday 25 February 2010
I was feeling better but still not at 100%.
We drove to Phnom Kulen which about almost 2 hours from Siem Reap far away from the main touristy area. Phnom Kulen: This is where the 500 year long “Age of Angkor” began. Phnom Kulen is the mountain on which Jayavarman II initiated the royal “god of the king” linga cult in 802AD, declaring a unified and independent Khmer empire under 1 ruler. I first saw some carvings into the water and then the main temple. Here visitors can see a reclining Buddha as well as his footprint carved on a rock. For some obscure reasons I saw a lot of woman in pyjamas, apparently for then it just clothes like you will wear tracksuits. Later we went to the water fall it was really nice. very relaxing and under the shade it was just what I needed: an easy day!
I tried to eat lunch but did not feel like it so our stop was fairly quick.
My last temple to be visited was Beng Melea. This temple is still largely overrun by the vegetation. It dates from the 11 century and is much less visited. It was like Ta Prohm but smaller but much better as it was like discovering it for the first time as it looks like a “lost” temple. This temple had a special atmosphere. At the entrance there was a beautiful Naga.
I will definitely have a long lasting impression of the temples of Angkor, the rich millennium Khmer civilisation and some untouched and unspoiled temples. It is an experience I will never forget and always keep in my mind the smiling faces of Lokisvara at Bayon Temple.
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Day 12: Friday 26 February 2010
I was feeling better today and reassured as I was told that the bus had toilets on board. I made my way to the bus station. Once here my bag was tagged and put in the hold as I was given my receipt. The bus The Mekong Express looked a lot more comfy than I first thought. It even had an hostess on board. All passengers were given a lunch box with complimentary water, most of the other passengers were locals with a few foreigners as well. The bus left on time at 07.30. The man taking almost 2 seats for himself was a disgusting Deutch or German guy splitting his legs wide open..he looked like a pedophile to me..well any well I showed him the boundary of my seat.
As we were driving I watch the local getting on with their daily life. Many small children were also seen working as well, I bet they will give everything they have to go to school. Europeans kids are really spoilled!
The bus was almost half way through now, I have to admit that I am puzzled with the traffic laws, but well this Asia not Europe. A short while later the bus stop for 20 minutes in Kampong Thom where I will come back later. I took the opportunity to use the bathroom of the restaurant as well and later went chatting to the other foreigners. Later as we arrived in Phnom Penh we cross the only bridge along the Tonle Sap river, this bridge was built by Australia. A lot of countries are helping into the rebuilding of Cambodia following the Khmer Rouge regime war as almost everything was destroyed.
Cambodia is still a developing country and therefore a large number of NGOs are present in community developments projects. They work to support and complement the government.
As I stepped out of the bus I was “assaulted” with men shouting tuk-tuk-moto-taxi-hotel…..
I found my driver who took me to my hotel after a quick shower I was all set to start my visit in Phnom Penh the Capital of Cambodia.
The name of Phnom Penh means Hill of Penh. According to my guide book, an amcient legend tells a women named Dau Penh who discovered a buddha statue floating in the nearby Tonle Sap river. A devout Buddhist she set up a stupa to house the relic at the site of today’s Wat Phnom. The city is at the confluence of Mekong, Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers. Phnom Penh counts around 2 millions people.
My first stop was the Royal Palace. The Royal Palace serves as as the residence of the King, as well as a venue for court ceremony and is the symbol of the kingdom. It was first established in 1866 under King Norodom and the French Protectorate but was only completed in 1920.
As I was visiting the grounds of the palace I was protected from the street noise from the big wall circling around it. I first saw the Chanchhaya Pavilion which the place where Royal Banquets are held. You can also see this building from outside the palace ground once you are in the street. After that I entered the Preah Tineang or the Throne hall, it was really nice all in marble and gold. Then I went to another pavilion where costumes are kept it was really interesting, a dress with different colours for different days of the week. After that I went to see the Silver Pagoda one of the most well known attraction of the capital. Wat Preah Keo Morokat or Silver Pagoda was named for its silver tiled floor. 5329 silver tles cover the floor and each one weights 1.125KG. Inside was also a collection of Buddhas of all sizes as well as other historical objects. It also host an Emerald Buddha, as well as Maitreya standing Buddha encrusted with 2086 diamonds.
The garden next to the Silver Pagoda was really nice as well, it also host stupas with a small scale model of Angkor Wat.
I did not see the King of Cambodia as he was away visiting his parents in China.
I left the Royal Palace behind me and went to the National Museum, once again no photos permitted. The museum was bright red, really distinctinve! The museum hosts over 5000 objects mainly from Angkorian eras. Some priceless statues are kept here while copies are displayed in Angkor. It was very pleasant anyway, inside there is also a small courtyard where I relax. for a while.
I left the museum a went to the independence monument, it was inaugurated on the 9th of November 1962 to celebrate Cambodia’s independence from foreign rule. It also serves as a monument to Cambodia’s war dead.
On my way back to the hotel I stopped at the Central Market or Phsar Thmey for the locals. This market is a landmark in Phnom Penh. Four arms of the market converge in a dome which is the hub. The market was constructed in 1935-37 during the French colonial period. Now the inside of the market is closed for renovation so all the vendors are relocated outside…shame as it was the highlight of my trip..but bener mind, at least I saw it from the outside!
My first day in the capital went very well, I was really happy!
In the evening I went to a small outside restaurant a block from my hotel.
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Day 13: Saturday 27 February 2010
My guide was waiting for me in the hotel’s lobby. I started my day by visiting Choeng Ek Killing Fields.
From the 17 of April 1975 the brutal ultra communist Khmer Rouge regime contolled the whole of Cambodiathen known as Democratic Kampuchea. During the reign around 2.5 millions of Camboodians perished Some of the horrific remains can be seen in at the Choeung Ek Memorial and the Tuol Sleng or S21 museum. In 1979 the Khmer rouge were driven out of power in 1979. (well it is more complicated but not enought space to give history leson!). The leader was Pol Pot, he had been highly educated in France where he became deeply interested in communism. When he returned to Cambodia, he wanted to create a true agrarian society, with everybody returning to work the land. Cambodian currency was abolished; any educated people or people who were involved in the former government were seen as a threat to the regime and were usually imprisoned and murdered.. People slowly began to suffer from malnutrition, due to the heavy labour and poor rations that they received. Only rice was grown under the supervision of China who also trated weapons.
To know more on Khmer Rouge see:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/asia-pacific/7002629.stm
http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1879785,00.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khmer_Rouge_rule_of_Cambodia
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It had to be done..it was very hard place to visit and yes I had tears in my eyes…I took photos as it has to be shown..to me it was worst than what I saw in Auswitch. Making the crimes of the inhuman regime of the Khmer Rouge public will hopefully play a role in preventing a new Pol Pot from emerging in the lands of Angkor or anywhere in the world.
I will watch again the film “the Killing Fields”.
I felt really strange leaving this place, it happens only barely 40 years ago a long time after the end of WW2. Still humans are capable of horrible things.
We stopped at the Russian market or Phsar Toul Tom Poung. This market became the foreigner’s market during the 1980′s when most of the foreigners in Cambodia where Russian, hence the name of the Russian market. Here most souvenirs can be bought from silk to gold. I bought a small T-Shirt for Eliot. I also bough a Dragon Fruit the inside id white with small black seed but taste plain while the outside is spiky pink colour.
I bought a drink here and continue to S-21 Toul Sleng Museum. Prior to 1975, Toul Sleng was a high school. When the Khmer Rouge came to power in 1975 they converted it into the S-21 prison and interrogation facility administred by Kaing Guek Eav or Dutch. Inmated at the prisons were kept in tiny brick cubicles and systematically tortured sometimes over months in order too extract the desired “confession”, after that the victim was excecuted at the Choeun Ek Killing field (see previous photos). S-21 prison processed over 17000 people only a handful survived. The Tuol Sleng compond now serves as a museum, a memorial and a testament to the madness of the Khmer Rouge regime.
I first started my visit by visiting some of the torture rooms, blood can still be seen on the walls and ceiling. It was a really strange feelings. Then I saw the rules of the prison (see my photos). Further along was the potence : The prisoner with its hand tied up was lifted upside down until the prisoner loses consciousnes, then they dipped the prisoner into a jar of dirty smelly water which was used as a fertilazer for their crops outside. By doing so the prisoner regain conciousness and the interrogators could continue. Later I saw the cells some in bricks some in wood.
In another rooms some photos of formers inmates were kept on displays as the Khmer Rouge documented every single prisoner. Some of the photos showing signs of tourture, men, women and children were displayed. In the last room some painting representing different methods of torture were also displays, one of the few survivors gift it to the museum, it was hard to look at it and I chose not to take a picture as it was graffic but also a mark of respect for the victims. The last display was a map of Cambodia made of skulls………
On the around 20,000 persons who spent time there, only 7 survived!
Well it was a bit of emotionally hard day, but it is part of Cambodia’s history and by sharing this it will hopefully prevent this kind of thing to happen again.
I went back to the hotel for a while only to leave a short while later to watch the sunset on the river. First I made a detour to see Wat Phnom. It is a small marking the founding of Phnom Penh. It also have a massive garden clock(see photo). legend has it that in 1372 Lady Penh fished a floating Koki tree out of the river. Inside the tree were four Buddha statues. She built a hill (Phnom means Hill) and a small temple (wat) at what is now the site of Wat Phonm. Then I boarded the boat and started my sunset river cruise having the boat only to myself and Chivoins my guide. The view was nice, I saw the Royal Palace from the river. Nice sunset and the almost full moon was amazing. It was really relaxing!
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Day 14: Sunday 28 February 2010
I left the capital at 07.30 and made my way to Kampong Cham. Our first stop was near Skun where I sampled the local dish: a fried tarantula! They are caught alive, their fangs are cut off immediately. To kill them you have to press under their belly and it is done. Then they are cook in oil mixed with some spices…..Then it is ready for us to enjoy! It tasted okay! However I did not like the cricket but it would have helpt if I would have taken the wings off before stuffing it to my face!! Some locals look at me very amused. Well by this way I gained an instant smile and laugh!
Then we stopped at Phnom Bpros ( Man Hill). The common legend told about these hills is that two teams (one of men and one of women) were competing to build the tallest mountain before sunrise. This competition occurred because the Khmer custom was that a man needed to go to the woman’s parents to ask permission for wedding, and the men were challenging this. As the story goes, the women lit a fire at night, which made the men believe that the sun was rising. They stopped working, and the women won the competition. Thus men still need to ask the women’s parents for permission, and Phnom Srei is higher than Phnom Pros.
The guide bought some lotus seeds, I was wondering why, then he offered me some happy to sample another local dish, I tried some only to see a meters later my guide to throw the lotus seeds to some monkeys. Well I joined him, after all why not having fun?? We saw another Killing fields memorial, here we sat down for a while and we sample Palm juice it was very relaxing as well. Later after climbing some stairs we reached Phom Srei (Woman Hill). It was very pleasant I really enjoyed my visit.
On route I saw a lot of rubber trees, which sound a big lucrative revenue for the government.
Just before Kampong Cham we stopped at Wat Nokor, a temple that dates from the 12th century. It was probably my last taste of the Khmer architecture, Angkor was definitely behind me!
I arrived in Kampong Cham early afternoon. My hotel was next to the mighty Mekong river; later I went for a stroll in town and send a few email on a very slow computer. Here we go… need the bathroom urgently again…
Later I sat near the river watching the locals playing Sapak Takraw which is a ball game. It is like Volley ball but you have to catch and throw the ball with your feet, knees and chest.
I had dinner by the Mekong river, despite asking with no eggs, I had eggs…never mind!
A visit to the country side surrounding the Cambodian Capital Phnom Penh. Kompong Cham was really lovely! Kompong means village in Khmer.
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Day 14: Monday 01 March 2010
At 08.00 I was ready to go so they were so we left early. We went to the market together where I saw special basket to give to the monks. I bought longans witch taste a bit like lychees but have a hard brown shell. I saw a rubber tree plantation again, it seems to be a craze in the country at the moment as the business is very lucrative. We also stop to see some sculptors along the road.As I was buying a Guardian Lion, I saw children on bicycle on their way to school. I saw car fuel being sold by the litre in bottles of Johny Walker wisky…! Later we joined a dirt road where I also enjoyed the sight of water buffalos. The road which will be tarmac soon is sponsored by China as part of a “deal”. Eventually we arrived at Sambor Pre Kuk.
The city of Sambor Pre Kuk was constructed by Isanavarman I (r. 616 – 635AD. There are three main complexes: Preah Sambor/North Group; Preah Tor (‘Lion Temple’)/Central Group; Preah Yeay Poun/South Group as well as a number of minor ruins. This site groups together at least 176 monuments, among which 106 in a ray of 5 km. We had a private guide to visit this site that lies in the jungle. A piece of brick, very small lied on the ground, I felt very naughty as I picked up this 6th century piece and pocked it. It was so small that nothing could be done with it anyway. Same as Angkor, many statues were stolen, the rest removed and taken away to museums before something happens to them.
I shared my lunch with the driver and Chivoins; as I was lazing around in my hammock, I saw children playing with bugs on the floor, in Europe children want playstations. Playing with bugs sounded really fun so I joined them, having fun does not cost you a lot of money!
We arrived in Kampong Thom, the small city where I stopped with the bus on my way to Phnom Penh. Later I left the hotel and walk across the bridge for 500 meters to have a look at the local Wat. I tried to chat with the local monk but it was limited due to the language barrier. It was a shame! It was nice contact with locals anyway. They are always smiling especially if you tried their language.
I had a peak at the local market, wanted to use the internet but it was not working so I went back to the hotel.
In the evening I went near the small river to watch the sunset and look at the locals doing an aerobic class, as I was kindly invited I decided to join them, cracking smile on everyone. I can tell you that doing aerobics with walking boots is not easy but it is fun!
wow… such a wonderful post…
outstanding balance of lines and words….
Learnt a lot from you….
visit mine… & plz plz plz post your comments….
Thank you…
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