ISABELLE AROUND
THE WORLD
BHUTAN: THE DRAGON KINGDOM
______________
DIARY
(14 September 2006 – 28 September 2006)
To Mr. Bernard Jeanpierre
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First… The Idea!
Bhutan? Where is that?
It was the first reaction when I mentioned to my friends and relatives that I was going to Bhutan. Most people have not heard of this small Himalayan country bordered with China in the North and India in the south. It is true that Bhutan does not hit the front pages often!
Bhutan or Druk-Yul (the land of the peaceful dragon) is the size of Switzerland but have only 690,000 inhabitants.
The local currency is the Ngultrum (NU) and has the same value as the Indian rupee; US$1 is worth around 45NU.
The first time I have heard of Bhutan was during the Olympic Games in Barcelona in 1992, with their 2 archers. I was thinking wow! Since that I always dreamt to visit this small kingdom. I chose an eco-friendly tour operator, as in Bhutan, travellers are not allowed to go without a tour guide. I went with “Imaginative traveller”.
The adventure can begin…
Day 1: Thursday 14 September 2006
I am in London, the big day has arrived. I woke up at 05.00; I did not sleep well due to my excitement! After a shower and a breakfast I watch “Télématin” on TV5-Monde.
Then it was time to make our way to Gatwick airport with my boyfriend, better access than Heathrow! It is lucky that we allowed plenty of time as Gary had to stop to put more water in the radiator, no stress!
We arrived at Gatwick to check in for the flight at Qatar Airways, it was very quiet. My plane was at 11.00. Despite asking for a window seat, I discovered they gave me an aisle seat on the leg from Doha to Kathmandu, first they did not want to change it but after a while they finally done it.
I said my goodbyes to Gary and made my way through security, downstairs the queues were massive but upstairs it was OK. I don’t want to hear any complaints from Eurostar passengers!
I passed with no troubles and made my way to the service-air lounge, which I paid to have peace and quiet. Well worth it! I went to board my plane, it was half empty! I could spread out a lot!
The journey went very quick, I arrived in Doha at 7.45pm, local time. I waited to board my plane to Kathmandu.
My neighbour was a Nepali who was working on a building suite in the Gulf. I could only imagine the way he was treated down there; I have heard so many horror stories! He hadn’t seen his family for 3 years!
Day 2: Friday 15 September 2006
I touched down in Kathmandu Tribuvan airport only 25 minutes late, I went quickly through border controls, and I waited for my bags to arrive, it was a lot quicker than last time.
When I got out, I tried to spot my rep, but no board to be seen; some blokes approached me and asking me which company I was with. Thinking of the tourist scam, I asked them for which company they were working for. It was all getting confusing, after a while I establish who my correct driver was. It was very embarrassing, but you can never be too careful! People are so poor that they are begging for your business.
I arrived at the hotel where I check-in straight away. It was the Hotel Marshyangsi in Thamel.
I started to go to bed for a nap when the phone rang, it was the official rep, so I got up I met with Sunjit, he was speaking French really well! He just wanted to say hello.
Kathmandu city is the capital of Nepal with a population of 1.5 million inhabitants counting the suburban area. The city is a fascinating melange of old heritage and modern buildings mixing an astonishing beauty of some sites with an appalling poverty.
The name of Kathmandu comes from Kasthamandap meaning “square house of wood”.
After that I did not bother to go back to sleep, so I started to wonder off in the city. After wandering around I finally made it to Durbar Square where I bought my pass, it was valid for a month. The cost was 200 Nepalese rupees (£2). The monthly pass cost the same price as the day pass but it has to be bought from a special office on the side of the square.
I quickly got offered services of guides which I politely decline. The square contains more than 50 important monuments, shrines and temples.
The main buildings are the house of the Kumari (the living goddess), Nepalese worship young girls known as Kumaris. The Kumari is a prepubescent girl worshiped as a living incarnation of the goddess Taleju.
The huge former Royal Palace called Hanuman Doka. (Entrance of 250NPR on the top of Durbar Square ticket). This temple is full of wood carvings and other religious symbols.
I walked around the city a bit before making my way to Swayambhunath, a Buddhist temple.
Kathmandu is full of colours, smell and noises. It is an exciting and vibrant city. W. Kirkpatrick wrote in 1811 “There are nearly as many temples as houses, and as many idols as inhabitants”.
People there follow two main religions: Buddhism and Hinduism. The two main sights for Buddhists are Boudhanath and Swayambhunath. The main temples for Hindus are Pashupatinath (cremation site) in Kathmandu and Changu Nayaran near Bhaktapur which I will later describe.
SWAYAMBHUNATH (also known as the Monkey temple) is situated on a hill top 2km west of Kathmandu. It is the second largest Buddhist shrine in the valley after Boudhanath. It means “self-arisen”.
Painted with the eyes of the omnipresent God, the stupa is the centre piece of the complex. Both Hindus and Buddhists climb the seamlessly endless stairs (365) to pray and throw grain to the monkeys and pigeons that have claimed the temple as their own.
From the top of the temple you can have a great view over the city and the Kathmandu valley. There is also the Hindu temple of Hariti Mandir dedicated to Harati, the goddess of smallpox. Many families come here to pray that their young child will not catch the illness. Behind the stupa on a smaller hill a temple is dedicated to Saraswati the goddess of learning. The temple was first created in the 14th century and has remained unchanged since, apart from a few alterations. The entrance cost 100NPR, paid at the top of the stairs.
It was also good fun to watch the monkeys doing their tricks, little babies clutching to their mum, they were so cute!
There were a lot of people begging for money and food.
As I started to feel tired, I caught a cab back to the hotel, the guy wanted to cheat me by wanted more money that we first settle, but I gave him only the money we first said…. 150 rupees it was, no more!
In the evening I went to a local bar to eat momos, 35 rupees, it was a good price! Momos are meat or veg dumplings.
Off to bed now!
Day 3: Saturday 16 September 2006
I woke up in Kathmandu after a good night sleep which lasted for 12 hours! I made my way to have breakfast to start the day. Once in the street; I hailed a cab and asked him if could take him all morning, for about 3 or 3 & 1/2 hours. We agreed on 1,000NPR (around 10GBP).
My first visit to Kathmandu was in 2003, but I really wanted to see a sight again: Boudhanath. I really love this site, Buddha is watching over you everywhere!
The GREAT STUPA OF BOUDHANATH is ancient reliquary; on the northeast of Kathmandu is the spiritual nerve centre of Nepal’s Tibetan and Sherpa community. The stupa is 40m high and is the largest stupa in Nepal. The stupa is the symbol of enlightenment. Each different shape represents one of the five elements: earth, water, air, fire and sphere. Brought together in the form of a stupa, their unity reflects the structure of the universe itself. An irregular 16-sided wall enclosure surrounds the stupa.
The stupa consists of three platforms, decreasing in size, symbolising EARTH; two circular plinths supporting the hemisphere of the Stupa symbolising WATER and the tower, with the four faces bearing the eyes of the omnipresent God. Between each pair of eyes is the “third eye”, symbol of wisdom. The 13 steps of the pyramid represent the ladder to enlightenment, the triangular shape being the abstract form of the FIRE. At the top of the tower is a gilded canopy, the embodiment of AIR. The spire is the symbol of SHERE.
I spun the prayer wheels wishing for peace in the world and a good journey while listening to the chants of ‘Ohm mani padme hum’ echoing from the stalls that surround me.
Some people say that there are eighty-four thousand meaning to this mantra and everyone is a door to happiness. They believe compassion arises spontaneously as we free ourselves of delusion. It cannot really be translated but it will mean something like “Behold! The Jewel in the lotus.”
Ohm represents the body of all Buddhas; it also begins nearly all mantras; it purifies the neurotic attachment to bliss and pride, which afflict the beings in the realm of the gods. It removes the delusion of pride.
Mani means “jewel” in Sanskrit; it removes jealousy and the negative desire.
Padme the Sanskrit pronunciation, or PEME in Tibetan means “lotus”; it removes the ignorance and greed. Hum represents the mind of all Buddhas and often ends mantras; it removes hatred.
I walked first round the stupa (clockwise!). I then came in and started to climb the stupa still circling round, I sat down at one stage just watching the world go by; I could stay here for hours. I felt that I was on the most peaceful and serene place on the planet.
There were pilgrims spinning their own prayer wheels made of silver and yak bones. While here, I really feel harmony and peace.
After I went to another monastery where I watch Boudhanath from another angle. I then made my way back to the taxi that was waiting for me.
I decided to go to Budhanilkantha in the north of Kathmandu, I paid to make an offering to the gods (entrance is officially free, but if do not make offering they are not keen to show you in). It is also a form of respect.
BUDDHANILKANTHA (meaning Old Blue Neck) is dedicated to Vishnu. It was consecrated in 642. This huge 6 meters long sculpture is carved from a black stone. Vishnu reclines on the coils of the snake Ananta whose 11 hoods form a garland around his head.
A young boy who decided to be my guide, a good one I have to say, took me on a short hike to visit a Buddhist Monastery which was not even on my map. The name of the monastery was Lhundrung Choing, normally visitors are not allowed in, but this area see so few tourists that people will do anything to earn extra tips, the boy talked his way through. He was not allowed in, but the monk said I could come in. A monk gave me a tour, the monastery was really splendid! I felt privileged. I gave the monk a donation for the monastery to say thank you for being allowed to enter.
I came back to the taxi, I gave a tip to the boy who wanted me to go somewhere else called Gokarna (which I will visit later…) but it was too late and too far. I asked the driver to take me back to the Kathmandu. My mini tour lasted for 3 hours and 45 minutes. The taxi driver was happy with my 1000 rupees, it is lucky that I had him all morning as I did have to bargain all the time and mainly there was no taxi at Budhanilkantha.
After a quick lunch break in the hotel, I decided to go to Kirtipur. So I hailed a cab again. I managed to bargain in for 800 rupees to go there wait and back, the city was far away. It will take at least 45 min to get there, as we had to cross the entire city.
Kirtipur is located 5km in the South West of Kathmadu, on a small mountain ridge. The city spreads over 2 hilltops. It is on an old trade route to India. Kirtipur was once an independent kingdom, and because of its strategic hilltop location, it was the last kingdom conquered by King Prithvi Narayan Shah when he unified Nepal in the late 18th century.
Kirtipur is one of the oldest Newari settlements in the valley.
I first went to the summit of the southern hill which is crowned by the splendid Buddhist shrine of Chilamchu Bihar. At the Northern side is the Uma Mahesvara Temple, also from here spectacular views over the Kathmandu Valley. This three storey temple is dedicated to Shiva. Other sites include Bagh Bhairav. It is the cultural and social centre of Kirtipur there is a magnificent temple of Dhun Baira-dyo.
There are also of other smaller shrines and stupas, I enjoyed my walking tour through the narrow streets, it offered a step in the past, with its brick houses, wood carving workshops. It was so traditional!
Locals were eager to explain the history of their village; very few tourists ever go there (about 1%). There are no facilities for tourists here; guided tours never go here, so my “white” face got soon spotted!
What a change from Kathmandu, the city is car free. I took advantage of boy giving me a tour, he was really at history, I gave him 100NPR, a good tip, he wanted more, but I refused. I don’t think I was mean.
I took my taxi back to Kathmandu, after a short walk again to Thamel, I went back to eat at the same place as yesterday, the owner was surprised to see me again, the locals were amazed to see a foreigner here, as usually they go on fancier restaurants.
My bottle of water fell on my passport, it was soaking wet. I was trying to make it dry. I hope it will be OK.
Day 4: Sunday 17 September 2006
I woke up at 06.30 but stayed in bed until 08.30. After a quick breakfast I hailed a taxi in the street and made my way to Patan in the outskirts in the south of Kathmandu. (5km)
Patan is one of the major cities in Nepal, it is also known under the name of Latipur. It used to be one of the 3 Royal cities with Kathmandu and Bhaktapur, and in my opinion is the also the most beautiful. Patan counts a big community of Tibetan exiles as well.
Patan Durbar Square is classified by UNESCO. Patan dates back from the 3rd century BC, and was expended during the reign of the Mallas in the medieval period.
The whole city looks like an open air museum and is full of heritage.
When I stepped out of the taxi I avoided paying the entrance fee, yes I am very naughty you are thinking?!!
I took the offer of a registered guide, this as well not to miss out on things but to avoid by hassle all the time, as they were very few tourists wandering around and people were desperate for your money.
I started with Durbar Square; it is much smaller than the one in Kathmandu only 3km2. But contains many temples to see as well as the museum. In Malla times the square was the place for religious ceremonies and festivals as it is today.
Patan Durbar Square was constructed with the pious devotion of the Kings, Queens, Princes… and ministers to satisfy the gods. After the damages causes by the 1934 earthquake a constant flow of donations were left to rebuilt the temples in the fashion of the old time as it was. All which were done in the belief of pleasing the deities resulting in a prosperous life for everyone in the family.
I started my visit with the ancient Royal Palace which has 3 courtyards or chowks, the main one is Mul Chowk, which contains very nice and details wood carvings. The museum relates the history of the city, with different objects on display.
Then I made my way to KRISHNA MANDIR, it was built in the 17th century by King Siddhi Narsingh Malla, the temple of Lord Krishna holds a commanding position in the palace complex of Patan. It is the only temple in Nepal to have 21 shrines and is completely made of stone. Most of the important scenes from the ancient Hindu epics the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, have been engraved on its friezes. It is one of my favourite! This temple is really nice.
I also went around to all other different temples and shrines around the square. One of the other nice temples is Viswanath Temple which dates from 1627 and contains erotic wood carving as well as 2 twin stone elephants guarding the entrance. It was built to honour the god Shiva.
We left Durbar square to see a few other temples, the first stop at the Golden Temple or Hiranyavarna Mahavira. Two huge lions are guarding the entrance which cost 20NPR. No shoes or leather is allowed so I removed my shoes and left it at the entrance. It is one of the richest monasteries in Patan, the source from its wealth came from its trade with Tibet. The temple has got a guided golden roof. Inside the there are many images of Buddha’s and Bodhisattvas. The temple dates from the 12th century.
Then after seeing an art school with paintings we went to Rudra Varna Mahavihara. It is one of the oldest temples in Patan, it dates from the 5th or 6th century, one of the oldest in Patan, the courtyard is packed with bronze works items.
Then we went to Raato Matsyendranath Mandir, it was built in 1673, the wood carvings on the roof depict various aspects of this god.
Then the best for the end, the best temple which I will have miss without my guide as it is in very small courtyard barely visible from the street is Mahabuddha Mandir The temple of the 1,000 Buddha’s it was erected in the 16th century . An image of Buddha is engraved in each Brick.
Patan was really fascinating, it was really a beautiful city packed with heritage sites.
I decided to pay a visit to the small zoo, but it was closed because of the coming festival.
I went back to Kathmandu as there was a meeting the tour leader and the rest of the group at 17.00 in the hotel lobby.
Back in my room, at 16.00 my companion was still not here. Finally she arrived at 4.30pm; it is Mary Alice from Chicago. She is really nice, I am sure we will get one with each other. I met my fellow companions a couple from Scotland Elaine and Derek and Marcel from Holland. During the briefing we paid for our local payment and our visa for Bhutan.
In the evening we all went together at “New Orleans” for a meal, and we starting to know each other better. The prices were much higher than “my local”.
I was eager and so impatient to discover Bhutan!
In the evening some people played loud music, it was very hard to sleep.
Day 5: Monday 18 September 2006
We woke up about 08.00, had breakfast and left for the airport to board or Drukair flight.
At the entrance of the airport there was some X-ray machines, only passengers with tickets were allowed inside the terminal, we paid our airport tax, and waited for check in to open.
We weighted our bags and ourselves on the scales, it was so funny! (maybe rude as well!). Then we made our way through border control, my passport was still a bit wet but it passed the test, we are in!
We had to go through security checks again, a guard confiscated my batteries, I was angry, but I have to admit that he did not spot my Vaseline and Savlon cream which I forgot to put away! We were told to wait in a special departure lounge, but it was the wrong one, I nearly went to Bangkok! After being re-directed to the correct lounge, we had our first taste of Bhutan, some passengers were wearing their national dress, I could not help but to look at them, it was so amazing!
In Bhutan all citizens must wear the national dress, it is a dress code called “The Driglam Namzha”. It is a mark of respect for the king as well to promote and preserve their unique heritage and in order to be able to enter National Public Buildings, schools, and Monasteries or Dzongs. It was introduced in the 17th century to give the Bhutanese a unique identity.
The men’s were the Gho it is a long robe hoisted to the knee and held in place with a kera, a woven cloth belt, wound tightly around the waist. This forms a large pouch above that may be used to contain particular items, traditionally a bowl and betel nut. They come in variety of patterns, often with plaid or striped designs as well as similar look to the Scottish tartans. Some people say that men’s were nothing under, but usually according to the guide men’s were a pair of shorts.
Women’s wear the Kira, it is a floor-length rectangular piece of cloth wrapped around the body over a blouse called wonju. The Kira is held from the shoulders by broach-like hooks called koma and is fastened at the waist with a kera. The dress is complete with a short, open jacket-like garment called toego. It can be made of cotton or silk.
We finally boarded our flight, it was free seating first come first served, I was the first one on the aircraft planning to find the window seats on the correct side empty, but they were all taken as the plane as I just found out comes from Delhi. On board I had a cognac with Mary Alice. I did not miss out on the view it was cloudy, nothing to be seen!
The arrival to Paro was it bit scary the runway is really short, the pilot slam on the brakes! The airport looks like more of a Dzong (monastery) than an airport! It was so nice; I took a picture of the plane before entering the terminal.
We passed through border control, and in the arrivals our driver Nima and Cheund-Du our tour leader were waiting for us.
That’s sit I am in the land of the Thunder Dragon, I am in Bhutan, and it was just as I imagined it, the air was so pure, and there is no traffic.
On our way to the hotel we stopped to look at the Paro Dzong and took a few pictures, we will visit it the coming days.
We arrived at out hotel, the Kitchu Resort, it was lovely, it was more luxurious that what I was expecting.
A welcome tea was offered at reception. Later with Mary Alice we walk up to the village, all the kids were excited to see us, we took lots of photos. Bhutanese are really lovely people.
I was very happy to have a close encounter with the locals.
We also watch the men (hotel staff, Nima and Cheung-Du) playing a kind of dart game called Kuru, the target is 20 meters away. It was very pleasant to watch them.
I had dinner in the evening with the others.
In the evening I drank the local beer “Red Panda”. This Bhutanese unfiltered brew is really nice. I have to admit that I was first sceptical about drinking it, but it was really nice! Off to bed now!
Day 6: Tuesday 19 September 2006
After a good night sleep and a nice breakfast, we jumped into or mini Tayota van to see “Tiger’s Nest” or Taktshang Lhakhang Monastery. From the car park, there was a trail through a pine forest to access a viewing platform in front of the Monastery. On the way up I was able to see views over the valley of Paro, prayers flags. There was also a small chortens that sits just off the trail with a big prayer wheel painted with syllables of the mantra Ohm Padme Hum, the spinning cylinder spins off the mantra of compassion. Some people says that there are 84,000 meaning to this mantra and everyone is a door to happiness. They believe compassion arises spontaneously as we free ourselves of delusion. It cannot really be translated but it will mean something like: “behold! The Jewel in the lotus.”
Ohm purifies the neurotic attachment to bliss and pride, which afflict the beings in the realm of the gods. It removes the delusion of pride. Mani removes jealousy and the negative desire. Padme removes the ignorance and greed and Hum removes hatred. A bell can be heard every time the cylinders complete a turn.
On the way I started to greet locals a big Kuzuzangpola which means hello, I was happy just to know that word! At the end of the trail there is a tea-house where you can purchase refreshments and souvenirs. In the shop we saw a wooden Willy, it was hilarious! We took a few photos with the monastery in the background.
The TAKTSHANG LHAKHANG MONASTERY is really awesome. It is also known as the Tiger’s Nest and it is Bhutan most recognisable image. It gets its name due to the story that Guru Rimpoche came to Taktshang, flying on the back of a tigress. He meditated for 3 months in a cave and converted the Paro Valley to Buddhism.
The monastery is built over the cave where Guru Rimpoche meditated. It is perched on the side of a 900m cliff. Taktshang is one of the most venerated pilgrim sites in the Himalayas and contains 13 holy places.
In April 1998, the monastery was burned down; it was a national catastrophe but was rebuilt by 2002.
I really loved my visit to Taktsang, it was very lovely and impressive. I am so glad I saw it. Back on the Tayota we made our way to the fortress of Drukgyel. Drukgyel Dzong is situated not far from Paro. (14km) Situated at the foot of Mt Jomolhari (7,314m), this peak has never been climbed as it is a protected peak.
The name “Drukgyel Dzong” means “Fortress of the Victorious Drukpa”. This Dzong was built in location chosen for control of the routes to Tibet. The Dzong was built in 1647 to commemorate the victory over Tibetans in 1644. Today the fortress is in ruins following a terrible fire in 1951.
The village of Drukgyel is very pretty with old Bhutanese farmhouses. Many houses have symbols painting on its walls to ward off evils. Wood-carved penis dangling from the eaves of a house Penis painted on the front of a home and then there’s the matter of the penises. Yes, you heard me, penises!
We went back to the hotel to have lunch. In the afternoon we went to visit Paro Museum. The National Museum of Bhutan. It was previously Ta-Dzong, a former watch tower with 356 years of history behind it. It is an unusually round 7-storey building with 2.5 meters thick walls.
The museum was established in 1968. The Museum has in its possession over 3000 works of arts, covering 1500 years of Bhutanese cultural heritage. In the museum you will find old armours, arms, Buddhist ritual objects, stuffed animals, traditional costumes, old Thangkas as well as Neolithic tools, without mentioning a superb collection of stamps.
After the visit of the museum, I took the opportunity to take nice photos of the valley, then we walked down to visit the Dzong, on our way we saw schoolgirls which I took photos of. Bhutanese are so friendly!
PARO DZONG, also nicknamed the “Heap of Jewels”, is next to the river. You could almost see its image reflecting on the water. It Is also government building, this structure is the seat of local government in Paro. It was built in 1644 and it was one of Bhutan’s strongest fortresses to defend the valley from invasions from Tibet. Today it is an administrative building for the district of Paro but also counts a monastic community of 200 monks. I enjoyed spinning the prayer wheels in the courtyard, thinking of my coming trip to the Everest Base Camp trek and praying to myself for a safe journey.
This monastery set the tone for our trip to Bhutan as it was the first monastery that we saw, that was really amazing! It is a shame that it was raining! It was the location for some scenes of the film “Little Buddha”.
On the way out we continue to walk down, when we reached the wooden bridge to cross the river.
The city centre of Paro is very small but smart. It has got charm! We changed our money as well.
While I was walking with Mary Alice we saw a truck with a metal sign “I love Bhutan”, it was a great photo opportunity!
We went back to the hotel were had dinner later on.
Day 7: Wednesday 20 September 2006
We left the hotel at 07.30 to avoid the road blocks later on. At Paro airport the road was closed and an army guy was holding a funny sign “Aircraft taking off – please wait.” The road was very close to the runway. So for safety reasons at each landing and takeoff the army close the road.
We saw a few villages as well as a private temple on a hill. We continue along the valley and driving next to the river Paro Chhu when we pass near an army camp then reach a bridge at a major road junction, the other road is going to India, it was called Chhuzom. It is also a meeting point of the Paro Chhu River and Wang Chhu River. This confluence is considered a union of a mother and father river. The Paro Chhu represents the father and the Wang Chhu the mother.
At the emplacement of the river Bhutanese built the “3 chortens” to ward off the evil spells of the area. They were built at different times and therefore reflect the three styles of architecture commonly found in Bhutan: Nepalese, Tibetan and Bhutanese.
A chorten is literally a receptacle for offerings, in Bhutan all chortens contains religious relics. The basic structure of a Chorten consist of a square foundation symbolizing the earth, a dome symbolizing water, and thirteen tapering steps of enlightenment symbolizing the element of fire.
These steps lead to a stylized parasol, the symbol of wind, which is topped in the ethereal sphere by the well-known ‘twin-symbol’ uniting sun and moon, which is the shimmering crown of the Chorten.
The Nepali style chorten is based on a classical stupa, the tower is painted with pair of eyes of all seeing eyes of Buddha.
The Tibetan style chorten as a similar shape to the stupa, but the rounded part flares outward instead of being a dome shape, it was painted in golden yellow toped with the crescent moon and sun.
The Bhutanese design comprises of a square stone pillar with another square stone at the top.
We arrived at the checkpoint to cross the bridge, the security guard keeping track of vehicle movements told us that they changed the time the day before and we had to wait for 2 hours, as they were doing road works.
We were a bit pissed off as we left early to avoid this, so we decided to go for a short walk and have a look and interact with the locals who were sitting down on a coffee shop. There were so cute little puppies, they were adorable!
We saw a nicely decorated Tata truck behind as well.
At 10.30 we were able to make our way to Thimphu. We pass by Simtokha dzong, which was very important due to its strategic position. The road was very dusty but after it was much better. Thimphu is the capital of the Kingdom of Bhutan. The population is of 50,000 inhabitants. Most of them are monks, members of the Royal family and civil servants with a growing middle class.
When we entered the city it was really quiet, it was like the town was deserted. There were no other cars to be seen, it was so strange for a capital city. There is no traffic jam compared to other cities (a complete change from what I have seen in Kathmandu!) Thimphu does not have any traffic lights; only have a policeman directing traffic from a booth at a roundabout. Thimphu used to have a set of traffic lights but residents complained that they were ugly, so the local council took them down within weeks. We stopped at a petrol station, which was built in the traditional style.
By a Royal decree, all buildings in Bhutan must be built in a traditional style. Thimphu only emerged as the capital city in 1953, but at the time it was only a dzong (Tashichoedzong), surrounded by small farms scattered through the valley. It is only since the 1970’s that the town started to develop and be as it is now. Thimphu is crossed by the Wang Chhu River. Thimphu also has got the highest golf course in the world.
We check in at out hotel, out balcony was facing the city, we had a really nice view, it was very pleasant. We stayed at the Riverview hotel. Then we made our way to city to have lunch, I saw a nice cute “salt and pepper” holders, one of the waiters will go to the shop and buy one for me, very nice! That what I call excellent Customer Service!
Later, we started our visit we went to the National Memorial Chorten, it was built in 1974, and it is one of the most visible religious structures in Thimphu. It was built to honour the memory of the third king Jigme Dorji Wandchuck. It is a big stupa, a lot of pilgrims were circling around the building. After taking our shoes off a monk allowed us inside, it was very beautiful; we even went on the roof top; from where we can see nice views of the city and the valley of Thimphu.
Chortens are built in memory of eminent lamas or to pin down evil spirits. They are also built to protect a region against evil spirits at places which are potentially dangerous such as crossroads and passes as well as landslide and accident prone areas.
After that we went to see Changangka Dzong; this is one of the oldest temples in the Thimphu valley. It dates from the 15th century and was restored in 1998. There was a kind of festival going on, and it was very busy with pilgrims. Their costumes especially woman’s were full of colours.
After leaving the monastery we went to telecom hill to see Thimphu mini zoo, here you can see the takin, the national animal of Bhutan. The takin with its bovine type body is covered with long yellow brown hairs. Its average weight is 350kg. They can live an average of 12 or 15 year. Their height is around between 100 and 110 cm.
The takin has been selected as the national animal due to its uniqueness and its strong association with the country’s religious history and mythology.
According to the legend, when Lama Drukpa Kunley (called “the divine madman”) visited Bhutan in the 15th century, devotees gathered from around the country to witness his magical powers. The people urged the lama to perform a miracle. However, the saint, in his usual unorthodox and outrageous way, demanded that he first be served a whole cow and a goat for lunch. He devoured these with relish and left only bones.
After letting out a large and satisfied burp, he took the goat’s head and stuck it onto the bones of the cow. And then with a snap of his fingers, he commanded the strange beast to rise up and graze on the mountainside. To the astonishment of the people the animal arose and ran up to the meadows to graze. This animal came to be known as the dong gyem tsey (takin).
The view point next to the zoo was lovely.
Then we stopped at National Institute of Traditional Medicine. This institute prepares traditional medicinal herbal treatments for different illnesses. The museum comprises of a large collection of plants and roots used in medicine. The centre also has a shop where you can buy herbal teas.
We also stopped at an art school were we saw different jobs, and later I bought my Kira in a local shop, it was really nice, Mary Alice bought a tangka for $800! It might be worth a lot of the savings but it is a real piece of art as it takes months to paint.
A Tangka or Thangka is a kind of scroll painting mounted on silk. It has distinctive ethnic features and a strong religious flavour. Its unique artistic style is highly prized by the Tibetan people.
During the 7th century, King Songtsan Gambo united Tibet.
It was amazing to see how small details are depicted. It was really interesting to visit the art school. Here students are taught painting, embroidery, Sculpting, Wood Carving and Weaving.
We later stopped a few minutes in the city to do some shopping and Cheung-du took us to the post office, a heaven for all stamps collectors! (But not for my wallet!). Bhutan is well known for its philatelic pride. Stamps depict Bhutan’s unique culture.
Later we went to visit Tashichoedzong (“fortress of the auspicious religion”). The Dzong is closed during business hours, you can only visit it during “off hours”, that’s means after five o’clock in the afternoon. The Dzong dates back from 1216. It was reconstructed many times after destructions and fires.
The current Dzong dates from 1969. It was refurbished because the Dzong became the seat of the government. The entrance of the Dzong is located on the eastern side; paintings of Guardians of the Four Directions welcome the visitors after climbing a staircase.
The first courtyard is the courtyard of the central administration; around it are all the ministries and the Royal Chamber. Then through a small door you arrive in the second courtyard, which are the Monastic quarters. It is where the central tower is located. Most buildings are beautifully decorated with mantras and mandalas representing the universe.
It was a shame that we were only allowed 20 minutes inside it was really nice, it was so unreal.
I was pleased about the comments on my Kira, I was very proud; many Bhutanese were very surprised seeing me wearing it.
In the evening I met with Karma my pen pal from Globosapiens, he was really nice chap, we talk about life in Bhutan and Europe. Cheung Du and Nima knew him.
When I came back, I saw Mary Alice and Marcel in the restaurant. It was a great day, I was so happy.
Day 8: Thursday 21 September 2006
We left the hotel in Thimphu at 09.00, Cheung-Du went to reconfirm our return flights, in the mean time it was our free time in the city, and we went shopping. I met Derek in a shop who bought a Gho. I bought a scarf to wear with my kira, you need that special scarf to enter the Dzong, the one I had yesterday, I borrowed it from the shop. I almost forgot it in a shop; I had to run back for it. I also bought a silver broche in the form of a dragon.
I met back with the others, and Cheung-du took us to see an archery competition. Archery is Bhutan’s national sport and is played all year round. 2 painted targets 30cm large and 120cm high are placed at each end. The bows and arrows are made of special kind of bamboo; the target is 120 metre away.
Team members encourage (like cheerleaders) their archer on the other side of the field. They stand really close from the target. Each team usually consist of 11 members. The first team to reach 33 points wins the match.
The method of scoring is complicated as if an arrow lands within an arrow’s lenght of the target even without hitting it, it also counts. Every time an archer hits the target his team members will perform a kind of victory dance on the field. It was very entertaining as all players were wearing the Gho, the national costume.
It was really amazing, I am glad I was able to witness this, part of the Bhutanese daily life.
Then, it was time to leave; we passed in front of Simtokha Dzong again, and made or way to Dochu La Pass. We stop along the road to take photos of Bhutanese farmhouses, I was wearing my Kira, and I had a good shot. The landscape was very rich, very green. Then the road was starting to climb slowly but surely, the bends were very sharp. At one stage we had to stop at a police check point as they were inspecting out travel permits, I took the opportunity to buy some apples. The road continue to climb, we saw cows in the middle of the road, the road was very narrow and on the edge of the cliff at one stage.
We saw road workers on a few occasions as well. The weather was really bad when we reached the pass; we stopped here to have lunch. We saw the same tourists as we saw in Paro, we are following each other!
Dochu La Pass is at 3,050 metres. The pass was marked by 108 chortens and prayers flags. When the weather is good you can see mountains, but not today, maybe we will have more luck on the way back.
I have to admit that I am lucky not to be prone to carsickness and not being scared of heights too much, the distances are not too great but the road twists and turns around every mountain contour!
After lunch we started to descend to Punaka, the road was through a leafy forest. After a while we reached Punakha. We stopped to make photos next to the confluence of the two rivers.
Punakha Dzong is 1,350m high. It stands at the confluence of the Mo Chhu and Po Chhu rivers. At first sight the Dzong looks like a giant ship floating on the river.
The Dzong was built in 1637. It really represents Bhutanese rich art and architecture of the country. This Dzong contains 21 temples. Punakha Dzong is one of the most historic dzong in the whole country. According to one legend, the head Lama of the Dzong realised that he was outnumbered by the pursuing Tibetan army. He ordered his troops to leave the Dzong from the hidden exit, then circle around a hillock and enter the fortress again and again through the main entrance in full view of the enemy. They were changing clothes over and over again. It gave a false impression of a huge reinforcement. It worked and the Tibetan army did not attack.
Punaka Dzong is the administrative and religious centre of the district.
The entrance had wooden stairs at the front are designed to be pulled up in case of an invasion. We also saw the temple Of Machey Lakhang which contains the casket of the embalmed body of Sabdrung Ngawang which was like a saint.
Only 2 lamas are assigned to look after the casket and have the keys to the Golden door. Other than these, only the king is allowed to enter this room.
The visit of the dzong was very amazing and interesting. The architecture is awesome. I loved the big tree inside the main courtyard.
Typical architecture of a Dzong.
These gigantic structures with their massive walls and elegant woodwork are among the most impressive forms of architecture in Asia. The basic pattern of the dzong is the utse-(central tower) which generally houses several temples, a courtyard surrounded by an outer structure which houses monks’ quarters, administrative offices, and the kitchen.
Distinctive features include:
- High inward sloping walls of bricks and stones painted white with few or no windows in the lower sections of the walls.
- Interior courtyards and temples brightly coloured in Buddhist-themed art motifs.
- Use of a surrounding red stripe near the top of the walls (perhaps punctuated by large gold circles).
Punakha dzong is distinctive in that it is sited on a relatively flat spit of land at the confluence of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu rivers. The rivers surround the dzong on three sides, providing protection from attack. This sitting proved inauspicious, however, when in 1994 a glacial lake 90 kilometers upstream burst through its ice dam to cause a massive flood on the Pho Chhu, damaging the dzong and taking 23 lives.
Dzongs serve as the religious, military, administrative, and social centers of their district. They are often the site of an annual tsechu or religious festival.
The rooms inside the dzong are typically allocated half to administrative function such as the office of the penlop or governor, and half to religious function, primarily the housing of monks. This division between administrative and religious functions reflects the idealized duality of power between the religious and administrative branches of government.
After the visit of the Dzong, we made our way Wandue Phorang where we are going to stay for the night in the second hotel of Kitchu resort. The hotel was 15 minutes drive from the town, on our way we pass the jail, impossible to escape! The resort was great, we were next to a river. In the evening we had a vegetarian dinner, Marcel was not happy at all. We saw the British expat leaving in Cambodia Miss “I know everything, I have been everywhere, done this done that”, oh I can’t stand her!
We later went to the bar, I was still wearing my kira, the girls of the restaurant helped to put it on just before dinner.
Day 9: Friday 22 September 2006
We got up at Wangdi, after a nice breakfast, we were back on the road again we drove to Pele La Pass.
Marcel still wanting to sit on the front on the right hand side, we turn around the seat on the daily basis, so we have different views.
On the way, we saw a car that broke down we offered our help, or should I say Nima’s hands were here to help. I took the opportunity to go for a quick pee, where I saw a leche that was stuck on my leg, I took it was off, it was funny!
It was very pleasant to drive through the forest, it was so nice, and the air was so pure!
We arrived at the small village of Nobding we saw a small market with local women selling their vegetables on the side of the road, we all rushed out to take photos.
They were surprised to see me dress with Kira; I put a few smiles on their faces!
We arrived at the Pele La pass at 3420m which is marked with prayer flags as well as a chorten; the weather was poor so yet again no mountain views for us. This pass marks the boundary between Central and Western Bhutan.
We continued on our way, we stop at Chendebji, where we saw some painting on the wall that had been created for the Bhutanese film “Travellers and Magicians”.
The story: “A young government official called Dondup dreams of escaping to America while stuck in a beautiful but isolated village. But when he misses his bus to the city (and an awaiting visa), Dondup is forced to hitchhike with an elderly apple seller, a sage young monk, an old man and his beautiful daughter. Along the way, the mischievous monk tells Dondup a story of another young man who sought a land far away: a tale of lust, jealousy and murder that holds up as a mirror to the restless Dondup and his blossoming attraction to the innocent young woman.”
The film was directed by Khyentse Norbu, of the Himalayan Buddhist most revelled Lama.
We continue on the road to see the Chendebji chorten which is patterned after Swayambhudnath in Kathmandu, it was erected to cover the remains of an evil spirit that was killed here.
Then later we stop for lunch, the restaurant was very crowded but a kind of school group from Japan or Korea.
We continue our way to arrive in our hotel in Trongsa at 3pm. Our hotel room had a great view over the Dzong, it was very distinctive with its red roofs.
The village was about 20min walk. The Dzong holds a strategic position as it is perched high on a mountain, the clouds almost flows below it.
After a quick rest, we walk to the village with Mary Alice, Elaine and Derek. Marcel was a bit of a loner, we met on the way. We had a wander round the village. We saw dogs in the middle of the roundabout. Later after losing Marcel, we went to a bar, where we saw young monks arriving and playing snooker, you could see they have done this before, it was really amazing!
We walk back to the hotel, just before dinner the girls at reception helped to put my Kira properly, there was a lot of pushing and pulling, it was so funny, very hilarious! We got there at the end. After dinner we saw a lot of butterflies, it was amazing, it was so nice to watch them, there hundreds of them!
Day 10: Saturday 23 September 2006
This morning, we made our way to the Dzong of Trongsa. It is very impressive! The Druk Minjur Chhoekhor Rabtentse Dzong.
Built 463 years ago, the dzong’s street-like corridors, wide stone stairs, beautiful flagstone courtyards and sacred temples have been witness to many significant events that have shaped Bhutanese history since the 16th century.
The Dzong was really nice, at the entrance we saw the Guardians of the four directions; Chenmizang, the red king of the West, he his holding a chorten and a snake. Yulkhorsung the white king of the East plays the lute.
Namthose the gold king of the North is holding a mongoose and a banner of victory, and Phagchepo, the blue king of the South, he is holding a sword in his right hand.
The guardians have an origin in ancient Mongol tradition, each one holds an object. They are warriors who guard the world against demons and earthly threats.
They went out of the Dzong and back in the Tayota, it was still raining, we were making our way to Bumtang in Jakar. The road was climbing on a cliff edge, it was very impressive. I was really bursting for the loo as well as Mary Alice. We stopped at a weaving centre; it was great as I could not hold it for longer!
We arrived in our hotel (mountain Lodge) in Jakar, where we had lunch; one of the waiters was holding a bottle of Sprite as if it was a Grand cru of a French wine.
Jakar is the main city and trading center in and around the region called Bumthang. Jakar’s trading includes a variety of goods smuggled in over the passes from Tibet.
Jakar, however, also has more local products than Thimpu or Paro, perhaps because of Jakar’s relative isolation. Local products include apple and pear brandy honey, yak cheese (called “rock cheese” by Westerners who plan on spending an hour or more gnawing on a single small piece), mango preserves, and dairy products.
After lunch we went to Jampa Lhakhang monastery, we saw an old Tibetan Refugee who is the guardian of the Dzong, he was very funny and was happy to pose for photos. It is said that it was built in 659.
We then our way to Kurjey Lhakang, it is named after body print of Guru Rimpoche, built in 1652 by Minjur Tempa. The complex is made up of three temples facing south.
The lower part sanctuary is the holiest because this is the site of a cave containing a rock with the imprint of Guru Rimpoche’s body.
The all complex is surrounded by a wall made with 108 chortens.
There was also a rock with two holes, a sinner is supposed to enter on one side make his way through and come out on the other side, if he get stuck, it is because he committed to many sins, and can only be free by saying prayers. I took the opportunity to try that out!
The complex was really nice, a marvel. A perfect example of Bhutanese Architecture.
We continue our visit uphill to Jakar Dzong, it is also called Byakar or Dzong of the white bird, the hill was chosen by an assembly of lamas in 1549 when a white bird rose suddenly and settled on the hill. Bhutanese are really good in carpentry and woodworks! The dzongs serve as monasteries, fortresses, and government offices. If you get sent to Bhutanese traffic court, you’ll come here.
However, you’re more likely to run yourself off the road and over a cliff than receive a ticket in Bhutan. From the dzong you had excellent view over the valley.
Then we walked around the village, where I bought batteries for my camera, another kira, which look like the one the locals are wearing, the quality not as good as my first one, it was less heavy to wear as well. Jakar is a small town, but very pleasant.
The evening was spent in the hotel talking and drinking.
Day 11: Sunday 24 September 2006
We left the hotel at 09.30 for the village of Ura in the Ura valley about an 1 1/2 drive from Jakar.
On the way Nima and Cheung-Du stopped to stock up on Betle Nut which they have been chewing from the start of the trip, it is called Doma it is an areca nut and betel leaf with a dash of lime. The leaf has medicinal properties. It is acting as a stimulant, digestive and antiseptic they claim, but it has harmful effects, as it contains intoxicating substances at the same level of tobacco. Unfortunately it causes painful mouth diseases and oral cancers.
The nut is mixed with lime powder and the whole is rolled up in a heart shape betel leaf and chewed slowly. Then the rest is spat out on the street.
Doma is an integral part of Bhutanese life culture; it is chewed everywhere, by all sections of society on all occasions. In Bhutan, doma chewing defies time and space, age and gender. And, nobody exactly knows how, why and when doma became such a fundamental part of the Bhutanese culture.
The village of Ura is 3100m high.
I had the feeling that I really arrived in the true Bhutan with its small farms, the style of architecture looks very different from what we saw before. Village houses are not built of the same material all over the country. While the western region favours compressed earth (mud) for the walls, the central and eastern regions use stones.
It was still raining, according to the Buddhist calendar, it meant to be the last rain of the season, and it is a blessing rain, it is now that people takes their yearly bath!!
As we were driving to Ura, we saw a small car accident, one of the car belonged to the Ministry of Works and Human Settlements, the guy was very interesting to listen to, he was telling us the pressure between preserving Typical Bhutanese architecture and the need for economic growth and use of modern architecture.
Bhutanese architecture is famous for its originality, its harmonious proportions and its adaptation to the landscape.
We told him that we went to Bhutan because it was the only country left in the world that was not too developed with capitalism, and it will nice to keep it that way, that why tourists come here. Because Bhutan has got a unique heritage and architectural style.
We later arrived in Ura, we walked a bit and then later at the entrance of the Dzong our Tayota van got stuck in the mud.
We went inside the Dzong, Nima our driver who was very naughty found an old gun and said “hands up!” that was very funny! As well as very naughty! The statue of Guru Rimpoche was very impressive as well as the old paintings protected by curtains.
On the way out, the van was still stuck in the mud and we had to push it out, Marcel was not impressed and he did not really participate at first, he eventually joined in when saw the 2 girls hard at it. We eventually got out, we later stop at a water point to wash out our shoes and mud on our clothes. Two young boys were looking at us with an amazed face.
We drove back to Jakar, on our way we stop for lunch; we brought food from the hotel and guess what? Yes we saw that annoying woman again, she was looking at our food, so before she dares asking, I rushed on the left overs of the meat and help myself offering the rest to Marcel, so she could not have it! (My god, I am so naughty!). As we were about to leave Cheundg-du was rolling a betel nut, I asked him politely if I could try it, it was very embarrassing as I almost spat it out straight away; it was really disgusting, it was very bitter!
We arrive in Jakar where we went to see Tamshing Goemba, or also known as Tamshing Lhendup Chholing, meaning the Temple of the Good message. It was founded in 1501 by Terton Pema Lingpa, reincarnation of Guru Padmasambhava.
The monastery has very interesting religious paintings inside such as thousand Buddha’s and twenty-one Taras (female form of Buddhisatawa). Outside are 100,000 old paintings of Sakyamuni. They are over 500 years old; it was really amazing to have the privilege to see that.
Nima took the opportunity to wash out his sins by wearing the most fascinating thing about Tamshing Goemba, a 500-year-old suit of chain mail. It weights 25kg.
We even had the look in the Kitchens; from here you had a nice view over the Temple of Kurjey.
One our way to another temple we saw local men playing Kuru, a kind of dart game, we stopped to watch them. It was very good to see them interacting so well, rather than just sit at home and ignoring its neighbours, I felt a strong sense of community.
People in Bhutan have always participated in the development of their own communities. They provide labour for building community schools, rural water supply schemes, out-reach clinics and sanitation facilities and take part in planning the services and facilities aimed at benefiting them.
We continue our visit by going to Namke Nyingpo Goemga, from here you could see the Dzong of Jakar, over 300 monks leave here, one of them show us their accommodation, it was very basic. We could not enter it as it was closed but the prayer hall was beautiful.
I dressed up for dinner, I love it! I really enjoyed wearing the Kira!
Day 12: Monday 25 September 2006
We left the Mountain Lodge in Jakar; Marcel sat at the front next to Nima. It was a lot less cloudy, so the drive should be better.
We made a stop at the Swiss Farm, a project overseen by one of the first Swiss to work in Bhutan. The project had introduces brewing, and farming machinery. It also produces milk and cheese. Then we carried on back to Wangdi, we stopped at the same horrible place for lunch.
Cheung Du was sitting very near to Mary Alice at the back; it was starting to be embarrassing for her, and funny for the rest of us! I took photos of the cute “couple”.
Then we stopped in Gangtey, it was here that we were supposed to spend the night in order to see the Black Neck Cranes, but they were not here as well, so we decide to drive for longer today and spend the night in Wangdi Phorang.
Gangtey monastery was still being renovated, the rain was pouring down, we saw some monks dancing outside bare feet, repeating a dance for a coming festival. The temple was founded in 1613. We saw a cute little Bhutanese toddler wearing a little Gho he was so cute!
We eventually arrive back in the Kichu Resort in Wandue Phorang. With Mary Alice, Elaine and Dereck, we went for a walk, and saw the locals playing darts, so we crossed the suspension bridge across the river and joined them. It was good fun watching them.
When left and made our way back to the hotel, I had my first taste of how tourism affects the locals, a kid ask me money to take his photo, is it going to be the same as Nepal? You just need one tourist to give them money, and will start to think that there is a business to be made…
We had a pleasant evening in the hotel.
Day 13: Tuesday 26 September 2006
We were on our way again, our first stop was the Dzong of Wangdue Phorang. The position of the Dzong is remarkable as it covers the spur and overlooks an impressive view over the valley; it was also built at the confluence of 2 rivers (Punak Chhu and Dang Chhu). The dzong was founded in 1638. The dzong was very charming, the first courtyard was the administrative building, there was also a smaller courtyard were sits the central tower and a third courtyard were the monks quarters are. We saw lots of young monks, who were happy to be photographed, it was the true Bhutan.
Back in the first courtyard we saw a man wearing a red scarf; it meant that he was an important member of the community.
Inside the dzong we were allowed to look inside a room of a head monk, it was very basic, from his window we could see the “Mushroom village” called Richengang, this village is very compact, many of its people works as stone masons and carpenters. Theirs skills are sought from all over the country. It is believed to be one of the oldest villages in Bhutan.
When we came out of the dzong we stopped at a police and immigration check point, it offers a good view of the dzong.
This time I was sitting next to Nima, I will have the best view to climb to Dochu La Pass; it was less cloudy so it was more pleasant as well.
We stopped by a river as Cheug-Du wanted to show us a small passage that leads to a small monastery, we can’t go as it is too wet so dangerous, I took the opportunity to go to the toilet, as M.A was watching making sure nobody will come during that private business, a car stopped and a man walked toward us, M.A was making signs, “don’t go”! It was so so funny, anyway lucky that I was wearing my Kira! After that we talked about mooning people, and we started to giggle like crazy woman that was so hilarious, imagine us mooning at Bhutanese truckers on the top of Dochu La Pass, my god, it will probably cause the worst traffic accident that Bhutan ever saw!
Then it was back on the road as well, we reached Dochu La Pass, (La: meaning pass) were we had a quick tea. Over the summit road are the more traditional looking prayer flags. Here the weather was a bit better than the first time, we saw the 108 Bhutanese Stupas, honoring those who were recently killed by insurgents.
We stopped a few minutes to have a better look, I managed to take nice photos, and we also stopped to have a hot tea in the lodge as well. We continue our descent to Thimphu, were we had a nice lunch we had to hurry to come back in time to avoid the road closures; we still have time for a quick shopping. Cheung-Du wanted to us to leave later by only allowing us 30 minutes to get there but Dereck, bless him managed to persuade him to leave earlier. We left earlier, Nima ended stepping on the accelerator, we only made it by just 7 minutes to spare, and we left 47 minutes earlier. If we would have listen to Cheund-Du, we were good for another 2 hours wait!
Before we arrived in Paro, we visited a local school, most of the teaching was in English, and there were lots of pupils in the classroom, about 50 of them. They sounded really well behave.
After that, Cheung-Du took us to his farm, his wife made tea for us, as well as fried rice and Chang a type of fermented rice beer. It was interesting to see the inside of a Bhutanese house. Outside on the roof the chillies were left drying. Inside, Cheung Du had a small shrine to pray. Their life was very simple.
It was sad that our trip was ending, I did enjoy it especially when I was sitting at the front it was very impressive, Nima was a safe driver, we rarely went over the 60km/hour. We were all sad that our trip was over; we went back to the hotel, later we watch the boys playing dart.
It was our last evening in Bhutan, we had a wonderful dinner, I was dressed in my Kira and walked with the Bhutanese flag, and it was very funny! We had a nice enjoyable evening; I went to bed rally late! We have to wake up at 04.30am to leave the hotel for the airport at 05.30.
Day 14: Wednesday 27 September 2006
We woke up very early for the early departure, it was still pitch dark outside, and it was our last minutes in Bhutan. I was a bid sad, as well as my other companions. We arrived at the airport where Nima and Cheung-Du left us. Dereck was trying to spend his last bits of money, it was very funny as he ended up buying Kit-Kat bars for everybody. We went through security, the guard wanted to take my camcorder batteries, but rather than nick them, he offered to put them in my luggage. Worst thing is: I forgot to put my Swiss knife in my check-in luggage; he did not even spot it!
We boarded the plane I manage to get a window seat on the correct side at the last minute; I had a last look over Paro Dzong visible from the runway. The flight was great, the best ever!! I saw all the Himalayan chain, all the mountains, including Mt Everest and many more. It was such a magic moment! It was really perfect!
We arrived at Kathmandu where we were picked up after a few problems at passport control; some people did not have a double entry visa and had to buy another one. Then the guard could not read my first arrival date following the wet story, he was confused but at the end, stamped my passport and let me in.
We went for a nap, after waking up; we decided to go to Gokarna, after being told it was very nice, so we booked the hotel cab for 3 hours…
The driver at one point asked us if we wanted to go to the safari park, as we did not know there was one we said yes, but after the village. At one stage the driver stopped to ask for directions and we suddenly arrived at this luxurious hotel, of “Le Meridien” called “the village”, the hotel had a massive Golf Course. The receptionist insisted to give us a tour thinking we were at the right place, I knew we were not.
Anyway, off we went Mary Alice and myself with one of the waiters, half way down the golf course he ask us we wanted to see the SPA. Mary Alice was laughing her head off, it was so funny!!!!!!!! At the end I try to explain to him where we wanted to go and ask him to tell our lost taxi driver.
After this misunderstanding and Mary Alice and me still laughing we eventually made it to Gokarna. It was only a temple to visit; the town itself was not worth it.
Gokarna is the oldest Newari village in the Kathmandu valley, the only remains is the Temple. The temple is a three storey Padoga which dates from the 14th century. UNESCO provides fund to restore the Temple complex in the 1980’s. The temple also has got many other old statues worth to see. It is more popular for the festival of Gokarna Aunsi, better known as father’s Day. (Late August-early Sept)
On the way back we stopped at Bodnath, where I met 2 French guys in a café. They were back from the Everest Base Camp, where they had had an awful weather. It was very pleasant to sit at the cafe watching pilgrims walking around the stupa.
After we went back to the hotel still laughing out of our experience.
In the evening we went to eat at Dolce Vita, the service was long but the food was very good! We avoided talking to Marcel as he always thinks I am right you are wrong. We had a fantastic time.
Day 15: Thursday 28 September 2006
We went out to see a fair trade shop in Lanzipat, we all piled up in a small taxi, Elaine was sitting on Dereck’s knees. I could not stop laughing, I found this so hilarious! The traffic was so heavy that we eventually ended up walking.
The shop was really nice, it was called Mahaguthi, the shop helped to promote micro enterprises through backward and forward linkages. To built capacities of small artisans to improve their level of performance both in terms of quality and quantity. They also want to promote a traditional culture, art by means of developing new products with indigenous skills and resources.
The shop was mainly selling handmade paper products, handicrafts, silver jewellery, textiles…
After leaving the Shop, Marcell, Mary Alice and I took a cab to go to the other Royal City: Bhaktapur.
The city lies about 14 km east of Kathmandu. Bhaktapur is the third largest city in the Kathmandu valley. The city was once the capital of Nepal during the great Malla Kingdom from the 12th to the 15th century.
Bhaktapur or “the City of the Devotees”. Pottery and weaving are its traditional industries.
We started by Durbar Square; World Heritage site listed by the UNESCO. Strewn with unique palaces, temples and monasteries best admired for their exquisite artworks in wood, metal and stone, the palatial enclave has bewitched pilgrims and travellers for centuries.
The stone temple of Batsala Devi which is also located in the Durbar Square is full of intricate carvings. This temple also sets a beautiful example of Shikhara style architecture in Nepal. It was a shame as there some building works we could see it in full. But the Golden gate was really a beauty.
This temple also sets a beautiful example of Shikhara style architecture in Nepal.
Then we made our way to Taumadhi Square about 5 minutes walk from Durbar Square. It was a really lovely place, we sat down in a cafe and watch the world go by. The most beautiful temple here is The Nyataponla Temple.
After a while, we walk to Pottery Square, where we saw the city’s well-known potters making variously shaped and sized earthenware. The major monumental highlight of this square is a temple of Jeth Ganesh, which dates back to the 14th century.
After that we took another taxi to go to another jewel, Changu Narayan. The temple of Changunarayan is said to be the oldest in the Kathmandu Valley. The Temple of Changu Narayan is located about 8Km from the city of Bhaktapur on a top of a hill offering nice views over the valley.
The Changu Narayan Temple is the oldest existing pagoda temple in Nepal, listed in the UNESCO World Heritage Monument List in 1979.
It boasts a collection of superb Nepalese wood carving and metal work sculptures. The wood work is very detailed; it is carved with ten incarnations of Vishnu. The complex also have other smaller shrines and temples including a statue of Garuda and a stone column that bears the earliest inscription to be found in this area. It was engraved in 464 and it records the victory of the King Manadeva over barbarians.
We just arrived between 2 tour groups. We had the temples to ourselves and the scary dogs, which some of them probably had rabies. On the way out we saw 2 orphan lambs, being care for by an elderly woman, they were so cute. It was also starting to rain!
We went back to the hotel after a drive through the polluted roads of Nepal and the city. Nepal was getting ready to celebrate Dashain, a big festival starting on Friday.
In the evening, we went to Kilroys where I spend a lot of money; it was Elaine and Dereck last night in Nepal as well as Marcell. We all had a good time.
CONCLUSION
If there still exists on this planet a place where time has truly stood still, it is Bhutan.
We weren’t even five minutes from the airport when I realized that architecture is one of the most striking features of this Himalayan kingdom. The hills were dotted with farmhouses in the traditional Bhutanese style, handsome and baronial with white-plastered walls and timbered beams, oddly reminiscent of Swiss-style chalets. The second thing I noticed were all the shrines, temples and prayer flags.
Bhutan is ruggedly beautiful – a country of high passes, narrow valleys, terraced farms, tall monasteries, and imposing dzongs (fortresses). Subsistence farming is how most Bhutanese live. They grow rice, buckwheat, vegetables, apples, and honey. They also have some cows and yaks.
People have been very friendly, and I was so happy to explore this fascinating culture.
My greatest pleasure in Bhutan has been interacting with the local people, especially the monks in their monasteries. The people are truly caring and full of love. They might not be rich in materially but are they are wealthy in community bounds and in beliefs of their traditions.
Everybody we’ve met has been extraordinarily friendly, especially the children. They smile and wave whenever they see a westerner, shouting “HI! HI! WHAT IS YOUR NAME?! HOW ARE YOU?! BYE! BYE!” as we pass (English is taught in schools, so most children and a number of young adults speak it).
Cheung Du and Nima were really great; they really made our trip special.
One of the best experiences was a very cool hour that was spent in Thimphu watching archers engaged in a good-natured local competition. Their team chants and their victory dance. After all, when someone hits a 30cm target from almost 150m away, it’s something to celebrate. Or watch men from a village playing darts. It was really very inspiring experience to see locals being together. They have a strong sense of community.
I was impressed with what appears to be all the right things that the country is doing to stay a wonderful place. Many times people would tell us that they are trying to learn from their neighbours mistakes. Bhutan is under an immense strain of keeping their culture and economic pressures to develop more.
Bhutan is the most amazing place I have ever travelled to. I wish I will have the opportunity to come back here. The locals were so friendly!
Now, the second part of my journey this year is about to start, my trek to the Everest Base Camp…
Sources of my researches:
Internet:
www.wikipedia.com
www.kingdomofbhutan.com
www.tourism.gov.bt
www.bootan.com
www.discoverbhutan.biz
www.bhutan.com
www.imaginativetraveller.co.uk
Books:
The rough Guide to Nepal, 2002.
Lonely Planet “Bhutan” – 2nd edition, 2002.
“Bhutan” by Françoise Pommaret – First edition, 2003.
Magazines:
“Himalayan Travel Trade Journal”, October-November 2006.
“Geo” (#342) Le nouvel essor du Bouddhisme.
“Le Monde des Religions” (Hors Serie #5) “Le Bouddhisme”.
“Tashi Delek” (in-flight magazine of Druk Air – Royal Bhutan Airline), July-August-September 2006.
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