Inca Royal Highway (03/09/2005 – 27/09/2005)

ISABELLE AROUND
THE WORLD

PERU: THE INCA ROYAL HIGHWAY

______________

DIARY

(3 September 2005 – 27 September 2005)

 

The pursuit of the Inca Dream.

To Dominique and Odile… 

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First… The Idea!

It is years I wanted to travel to Peru, especially since I saw the famous cartoon “Mystérieuses Cités d’Or” (“The Mysterious Cities of Gold”).

It started like this:

“It is the Sixteenth Century. From all over Europe great ships sail west to conquer the New World – the Americas; the men eager to seek their fortune, to find new adventures in new lands. They long to cross uncharted seas and discover unknown countries; to find secret gold on a mountain trail high in the Andes. They dream of following the path of the setting sun that leads to El Dorado and The Mysterious Cities of Gold.”

“The Mysterious Cities of Gold” cartoon tells the adventures of Esteban, a young Spanish orphan. He sails for the New World in search of his father but his fate is tied to the secret Incan Cities of Gold. En route, he meets Zia, a young Inca girl kidnapped by the Spanish and Tao, the last descendant of the prestigious empire of Hiva (Mu in French). The story obviously takes place during the Spanish conquest (16th century) and we can (re)discover the Inca, Maya, Aztec and Olmec peoples. The atmosphere is stunning and the landscapes are faithful to many archaeological and historical places (eg. Chichén-Itzá, Machu Picchu, Nazca Lines). At the end of the cartoon there was a short documentary as well.

This cartoon made me wanted to go to Peru, and see by myself all its historical wonders. I wanted to know more about the Inca culture.

I booked myself on a tour with Exodus. I choose my trip according to what I wanted to see; Lake Titicaca, Machu Picchu with the Inca Trail, and the Nazca Lines. There were a lot of options! I decided to go on the “Inca Royal Highway”, as it is one of the longest trips and offers the best value for money.

I really liked the itinerary; I also wanted to go to the Amazonian jungle, so I took an extension. I bought some books in order to make my choice and to do a little bit of reading before I go. It is always good to know more about the culture of the country you visit, the Dos and Don’ts before you land.

I could not wait for my trip to start, I was very excited!

Introduction… The Inca Empire

The Inca Empire dominated Western South America from the Southern boundary of modern Columbia to the Northern Regions of Chilli and Argentina. In fact, only the emperor was called “Inca” which meant “Gold on Earth”.

The empire originated from a tribe based in Cuzco, which became the capital. Pachacuti was the first ruler to considerably expand the boundaries of Cuzco state. His offspring later rules on the empire by violent and peaceful conquests. In Cuzco, the royal city was created to resemble a Puma, the head; the main royal structure formed what it is now Sacsayhuaman.

Quechua was the official language imposed on the citizens. It was the language of a tribe neighbouring the official, original tribe of the empire.

Conquered populations, tribes, kingdoms, states were allowed to practice their own religions and lifestyles, but had to recognise Inca cultural practices as superior to their own. For example Inti, the sun god, was to be worshipped as one of the most important gods of the empire.

Many strange and interesting customs were observed, for example the extravagant Inti Raymi which gave young sacrificed virgin girls, the virgin of the Sun to the Sun God Inti.

Republica del Peru

Peru is a country in Western South America, bordering Ecuador and Columbia in the North. Brazil to the East, Bolivia in the South East, Chilli to the South, and the Pacific Ocean to the West. In addition of being known as the cradle of the Inca Empire, Peru harbours many indigenous ethnic groups, making it a major historical and cultural site. The population of Peru is 28 million. There are 2 official languages Spanish and Quechua. With 24,141 km of coastline and well over 1/2 million sq km of the Amazon rainforest, Peru is also one of the most ecologically diverse countries in the world.

Day 1: Saturday 3 September 2005

The big day!

We left home very early in the morning in a mini-cab. Our journey starting well…as the cab driver was taking us to Gatwick instead of Heathrow! Very lucky that Gary spotted it early enough!

The flight was at 07.25 with Iberia via Madrid; Gary came with me as he wanted to go to Madrid.

When we arrived there was already a few people in the queue already, I started to guess if any of these people will be on my trip, I spotted two ladies looking like trekkers, it turns out later that it was Frankie and Diane, they will be really nice ladies later on during  the trip!

We check-in ok, I had 2 pieces of luggage my big purple bag and a little blue one with my sleeping bag.

We spend time in the BA lounge. Then we boarded the flight. Consumptions have to be paid for on Iberia. I was glad I took advantage of the BA lounge!

We arrived in Madrid on time, Gary waited with me in the Iberia lounge thanks to its frequent traveller card, and we went to the boarding gate together with extra screening for our hand luggage.

We said our goodbyes at the boarding gate. I was walking down the aisle as I spotted my neighbour, a big fat woman, at the time as was thinking “why me?”, but at the last-minute somebody wanted to swap seat, I still had my window and a nice neighbour, I was happy until the flight went really bad, we did not have enough food. It was really long, I was growing with impatience! I was really glad went the plane touch the ground!

Day 2: Sunday 4 September 2005

When the plane touched the ground, I was so happy! We had to wait for a long time at passport control, during that time, a rude person dare smoking a cigar; I later discovered that it was John, the only smoker of the group. My passport was finally stamped. I made my way to customs after collecting my luggage, you had to press a button, a green arrow to the right will light up, it meant that you can go straight through and if a red arrow to the left will light up it mean that you will have to be search by customs officers. You cannot get more random search that way! No claims for discrimination… it is really a novel way!

I have been met by the Exodus driver, even though it was 18.00, the airport was packed, and it seems mainly that people were offering you “free” tourist advice, taxis… The driver made sure we did not leave our bags out of our sight. I started to chat with the others; I think that it will be a nice group.

Before I left I knew that Peru will be a culture shock, I was right, after stepping out at Lima airport, it became apparent just how Peru, or at least Lima was from anywhere so far.

The drive to the hotel in the mini bus was through fairly prosperous part of the city towards the end. We stayed in the area of Miraflores, which is in the south suburb of the centre of Lima. We stayed at the grand Hotel Fararona (3***).

Miraflores is well known for its shopping area, gardens, flowers, parks and beaches; it is one of the upscale districts that comprise the city of Lima.

After check in the hotel with the group we went for a quick grab talking about our adventure to come.

My first night in Peru, I was alone in the room, no sharing!

Day 3: Monday 5 September 2005

After a lovely breakfast, we first met with the rest of the group and the tour leader Rob and his assistant Jose; they left us in the hands of Alberto our local guide after we talked about our trip. I was more than ready to leave!

Lima is the capital and the largest city of Peru. It is the cultural, industrial, financial and transport hub of the country.

The city is located in the area encompassing the valleys of Chillion, Rimac and Lurin rivers. It lies on a desert coast adjacent to the bay in the Pacific Ocean where its port was built and named Callao.

Founded by the Spanish conquistadors Francisco Pizarro, Lima is also known as the city of Kings. For more than four centuries, Lima was the most important city and the greatest metropolis in South America.

More than four centuries have passed since its founding as a Spanish city, and Lima has become an expression of Peru’s heritage, with nearly a third of the nation’s population living in its metropolitan area.

Pizarro founded the city on January 18, 1535, naming the city “Ciudad de los Reyes”, as the location was decided at Epiphany on the 6th January. Lima its original name persisted. It is uncertain where the name originated, but it is though that it derives from Aymara word Limaq (yellow fewer), or from Quecha Rimaq (talking).

In the oldest Spanish maps of Peru, both Lima and Ciudad de los Reyes can be seen together as names as the city.

Rainfall is all but unknown; the yearly average is 0.7 cm being the lowest of any large metropolitan area in the world.

We started to visit the nice villas of Mirraflores, the old quarters and fabulous Spanish buildings and churches.

Our first stop was the Monastery of Santo Francisco. This complex was constructed in the 17th century. The patio adorned Sevillian tiles. There was also a library with old manuscripts. The museum of Religious art holds an important place.

The monastery also has got a vast catacombs underneath which contains the remains of 25,000 skeletons.

Then we walked to Plaza Mayor, it is in the exact location where Francisco Pizarro founded Lima. In this Plaza some of the most excellent facts of the history of the country have been developed.

Initially, there were small stores and commerce. It was Plaza Mayor that in 1821, the act of independence was proclaimed.

First we saw the Archbishop Palace, then the Cathedral, where a religious procession was taking place. The construction started as the same time as the city, as is now a big symbol. The Basilica Cathedral of Lima displays a form of architecture that makes it unique in all South America.

I noticed that Lima had marvellous balconies in the historical centre of Lima which counts of 1600 of the colonial area.

Across the square was the municipal building painted in yellow, in Neo-colonial style.

After a free time, we made our way to the National Museum of Archaeology, it is the largest in Peru, the museum houses 100,000 pieces of artefacts spanning the entire history of human occupation in what is known as Peru. The visit was very interesting.

We had a late lunch at 16.00! Everybody was starving! I was such in hurry that I forgot to tip Alberto!

On the way back we took a taxi and our driver got lost he kept asking the way! It was so hilarious!

I have to say that my first impressions of Peru are good. It seems to be a very busy bustling place, although the downside is the pollution is very bad, also people are constantly begging you buy this buy that…Basically anything that will part you from your cash!

I was off to bed after a quick dinner.

Day 4: Tuesday 6 September 2005

We met in the hotel lobby at 06.00 and suddenly our expedition vehicle (”Ze Truck”) arrived, it was very impressive! Within minutes our luggage were loaded. We met properly Rob our tour leader and Jose his assistant. Rob explained the “house” rules: keep it clean, as it was our living area for the next weeks.

As we had no means of direct communication with Rob who was driving, we had a buzzer:

- Press once for a photo stop

- Press twice for “ready to go”

- Press three times for toilet stop

- Press continuously for emergency

Then we started to drive through the Lima suburbs, mainly slums on the Pan-American Highway.

The Pan-American Highway is a network of roads nearly 48,000 km in total length. Except for an 87 km gap in the rainforest, the road links the mainland nations of the Americas in a connected highway system. The Pan American Highway system is mostly completed and extends from Fairbanks in Alaska to Qyellon in Chilli.

The Pan-American Highway passes through many diverse climates and ecological types, from dense jungles to cold mountain passes. Since the highway passes through many countries it is far from being uniform. Some stretches of the highway are only passable only during the dry season and in many regions driving is very hazardous.

We drove south along the coastline through the slums of Lima, shanty towns where the advice is clear! Don’t go unless you really have to!

Later in the desert area, a bit inland from the coast, there are numerous shacks made with flimsy materials by people who had fled the Lima slums. Only to say clearly how terrible life must have been in those slums.

As we stopped to see and take photos, a police patrol car stopped to see if what we were doing, they thought that we broke down, as usually people don’t stop here, reassured that we were ok, they left us on our way.

We had lots of loo breaks, it was good! I had my loo roll with a piece of sting round my neck, in order not to put it on the dirty floors, it was very hilarious and I made everybody laugh, enough to say that a few group members pinched my  idea later! At one petrol stop we saw a man with a donkey and a cart, it was so cute!

At one stage, I thought that I left my wallet behind, so I press the emergency button, It was very embarrassing as later it turns out that I put it in the wrong pocket of my bag! Oh well no harm done, better to be safe than sorry!

Later we stopped at the Parracas Peninsula; we jumped on a speed boat to the Islas Ballestas, which is home to thousands of birds including boobie birds, penguins and sea lions. The Ballestas Islands are also called the “poor man’s Galapagos”. There were also pelicans on a boat and 2 dolphins were leaping on the side of our boat.

It was so nice to see so much wildlife, but the guano smell was really bad! Bird pooh does however make a great fertilizer and is one of Peru most profitable export to Europe.

Later on still on the boat we stopped to see the Trident, a massive 128 meters tall by 74m wide, The Candelabra (Trident) was carved on the hillside of a dune, but no one knows its functions.

After stepping out of the boat we had lunch, it was a real competition between the restaurants on the shore to have our custom!

We went back on board of our truck only to drive off road in the desert still in the Paracas National Park. (That the kind of thing I will not have been able to experience I would travel independent!) It used to be home of the Paracas culture, an important Andean society apparently living in 750BC and 100AD.

After a bumpy ride we got off and walk for a bit to see “The Cathedral”, a beautiful rock formation, wholly natural cliff architecture such as Etretat in France.

It was really weird to be in the desert, it was not the way I was imagining Peru! Rob drove off without us; we later joined him after a 2 mile walk in the desert. It was such an experience. We good view over the Pacific Ocean, it was really great!

We jumped back into our truck, to stop late in the afternoon, just before the sunset at Huacachina oasis; it was not far from Ica.

Here, a massive dune was waiting for us. Here there are some of the world’s highest dunes. I have decided to walk all the way up, it was really hard, and we had to crawl at the end! Some people gave up half way up! It was exhausting but rewarding to climb this 98 meters sand dune!

The sunset from the top was just marvellous, a beauty! Unique!

After a well deserved beer we started the drive to Nazca, telling each other jokes then horror stories and the lights were off.

We arrived in Nazca at 20.45, we stayed in Hotel Nido del Condor (the Condor’s Nest). It is a nice place to stay as it’s got a swimming pool!

Day 5: Wednesday 7 September 2005

We stayed in Nazca at the Hotel Nido del condor (the Condor’s nest). Whereas no self-respecting condor will nest as low as this!!

I woke up in Nazca very early; I went to see the llamas of the hotel. It was very exciting to see my first Peruvian llamas in Peru. Oh and by the way… llamas do spit! (but what a miss!) It reminds me of “ Tintin et le temple de soleil” (“Tintin and the Temple of the Sun”) with Captain Haddock wanted to “play” with a Llamas then the “walking water jet” as he call them spat at him and the little Indian boy saying “Quand lama fâché, señor, lui toujours faire ainsi…” very funny!

I spend time looking at the birds in the hotel grounds, they were amazing! Then I sat down on the side of the swimming pool enjoying the sun.

Later we had breakfast and watch a film about the Nazca Lines.

Nazca, sometimes spelled Nasca is the name of a system of valleys on the Southern coast. It also applies to the Nazca Culture that flourished in this area between 300BC and 800AD. They were responsible for the Nazca Lines and the ceremonial duty of Cahuachi, they also constructed an impressive system of underground aqueducts that still function today.

The Nazca Lines:

The Nazca Lines are geoglyphs (drawings on the grounds) located in the Nazca desert. The drawings include a Humming bird, a monkey, a spider and lizard only to name a few over the 300 drawings. They were created during the Nazca culture in the area between 200BC and 600AD. The lines were first spotted when commercial airlines began flying across Peru in the 1920’s. Passengers reported seeing a “primitive landing strip” on the grounds below. The Lines were made by removing the coated pebbles stones which cover the surface of the desert, when gravel is removed; they contrast with the light colour underneath. In this way the lines were drawn as furrows of a lighter colour.

The Nazca Lines include straight lines and geometric shapes as well as stylized depictions of animals, humans and plants. The figures include a monkey, a condor, a rather looking human figure (known as “the astronaut”) a spider, a hummingbird, hands, tree…

Theories:

Since their discovery, various theories have been proposed regarding the lines construction. It has been proposed by some that the Nazca Lines purposes some form of manned flight in order to see them and that a hot air balloon was the only possible available technology. A hot air balloon was made from materials and using techniques that would have been available to people at the time in order to test this hypothesis, the balloon flew demonstrating that it was possible, but there is no hard evidence.

Others believe that the lines are a warning of something to come, a great calamity, or the end of our world.

Some believe that the lines were intended as a warning, one of the drawings depict a monkey with only 4 fingers in one hand. This sort of deformity would have been feared, although the line’s representation of animals is, at best inaccurate.

It is also suggested that the lines are a large star map that details the future positions of stars, perhaps hinting at cosmically inspired calamity.

Perhaps the most famous and controversial theory was put forward by Eric Van Daniken, who proposed that the lines were in fact landing strips far alien spacecrafts. He thought that the lines were built by UFOs.

Another theory contends that the lines are the remains of “walking Temples”, where a large group of worshippers walked along a present pattern dedicated to a particular holy entity. Overtime constant treating of feet would have worn away the top layer of soil, revealing the lighter under soil.

Residents of the local villages says that the ancient Indians conducted rituals on these giant drawings to thanks the gods, and to ensure that water would continue to flow from the Andes. This takes on the Nazca Lines purposes and importance is far from likely, as it correlates with the purposes of other North American geoglyphs. It also ties with an extensive network of underground canals and waterways found dating from the same period.

Preservation:

Nazca is one of the driest region on the planet and it maintains a temperature around 25C. The conditions have helped to preserve the works to the present day. The noted German Baron archaeologist Maria Reiche worked from 1946 until her death in 1998, to protect the geoglyphs from encroachments and accidental destruction, thanks to her work; The Nazca Lines were declared World Heritage Site in 1995.

After breakfast, later on, we went to see a Nazca pottery maker, Tony “the fat guy”. It was very interesting to see, this particular pottery. The guy had a little crested bird. The bird was a beauty, I managed to hold her.

Then later we saw a gold extractor, Rulio who sang for us, it was also an interesting visit.

Nazca Pottery:

The Nazca Region is a desert that the Nazca Indians turned into a viable agricultural area using their technologies. Nazca pottery has been divided into eight phases.

Around 200BC, at the end of the Early Horizon drought, Nazca I began, pottery from this era contains mystical content of Paracas art, but added realistic subject matter such as fruits, plants, people or other animals.

Realism increased in the importance in the following three phases II, III, IV referred to as the Monumental Phase. The potteries from these phases include renditions of the main subject against a bold red or white background.

In the next phase, Nazca V, the backgrounds are filled in and the subject matter now included body less renditions of both demons and humans. Nazca VI, and VII include portraits of elite members of the society.  Finally, Nazca VIII saw the introduction of completely disjointed figures and a rich iconography which we have yet to decode.

Since the Nazca were a coastal people, who depended on the sea for their livelihood, archaeologists are fortunate that they portrayed aspects of their everyday lives in and on their pottery. The motifs generally seen on Nazca pots are those of animals and plants used and seen by the ancient people. These include sea birds, hummingbirds, whales, sharks, fish, snakes, and flowers.

After enjoying the sun by the swimming pool, it was my turn to go on the Nazca flight! At 11.30, I crossed the road to the airport to go for my flight. The airport has about 50 planes permanently up or about to be up for flights of just over half an hour and no doubt the potters and metal merchants have increased sales on the strength of the numerous visitors. I sat down very excited next to the pilot; Tara and John were on the back. Much of the desert area is not particularly appealing. This is probably the driest desert in the world and it’s pretty accurate to say that it never rains here. The rise was very bumpy, it was really amazing to see these lines, I remembered in the “Cites d or” cartoon when the condor lands on one of theses. The humming bird was amazing, it was really amazing!

After seeing the Nazca Lines I am convinced about this Theory as mentioned on the web site of Sacred Destinations. It is almost certain that the Nazca Lines had a sacred purpose, because: other artefacts of the Nazca culture show a preoccupation with death; other major monuments of the ancient world are known to be ritual in nature; and no plausible practical purpose has yet been discovered. The Nazca Lines may have been ritual centres for helping the dead achieve immortality; they may have been an offering to the gods; or they could have been a major pilgrimage site.

Then we drove 27 km through the desert to the pre-Incan cemetery at Chauchillas. There are a number of square pits exposed to the open air; you could say that when you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all – they are very similar. All of them contain one or more mummy bundles and skulls and other bones. The fact that the graves have been robbed and stripped of valuables and that scraps of textiles, pottery and human hair, as well as bones, litter the surface doesn’t make it more attractive. We made a joke that it was the remains of the last Exodus tour that need not stopped in time for lunch… boom-boom!!!

Then back to the truck again, we drove for the rest of the day. Then it was dark, we had to switch off the lights and stay in the dark as the driver wanted to concentrate. Or maybe he did not want us to see the road, it sounds like there was sands everywhere! We played card games the torch lights, it was very spooky! We had a loo stop in the dark, the only light we had was the hazard warning lights of the truck. It was so funny! We stayed in a hotel in Puerto Inca where the bedrooms are scattered round in chalet-like blocks of one or two rooms at different levels. The meal we had was served by the hotel staff. The tour leader and his assistant prepared a surprise and mighty fine it was!

Almost adjacent to the eating area is space for a bonfire and we enjoyed a large one, burning olive wood that we had picked up about twenty minutes before reaching Puerto Inca. Jose cooked some hot wine with oranges and other things in it. I have never been so drunk!! We had really a marvellous time! I even saw a cat; he was by best friend for the night! (Tara and I had to share it; she was a cat fan as well!)

The only downside was the self-generated electricity supply that was turned off at night and went off for brief periods at other times. That’s a small price to pay for the lovely situation but, do keep a torch handy! I was so drunk that I could not remember my way back to my room, so like the others I slept on the beach for a while under the stars!

Day 6: Thursday 8 September 2005

I woke up early I recovered from being drunk by the bonfire of yesterday. I thought I got kidnap by aliens, the desert sand was really red, and the landscape was really amazingly weird! I started walking further down and saw a small Inca cemetery with bones scattered everywhere. This small Inca marvel was not even protected; it was shame as it could be completely destroyed in a few years time. I saw the others, we continue walking along the coast, it was so calm, the coastline was dangerous, a small step out, and fell to your death below. There was a small beach, so I decided to have a closer look, but the only thing I managed was to get my feet wet (including shoes and socks)!

I got back to the hotel for breakfast, I played with the little green parrot, he was so cute, he even said “Bonjour” in French to me, I was really happy!  I had to leave my new friend behind and I jump on the truck and enjoy the drive along the coast.

The drive was really lovely, sea on one side, sand dunes on the other. I was on the front seat on the top, it was very impressive! I had the best views. I left my socks dying outside by sticking them in the window frame; people overtaking us must have wondered what it was! It looked like the Sahara, no hiding place. The small town of Camana was the last point of the Pacific coast that we visited before heading inland to Arequipa. Lunch break was welcomed; we stopped in a Chinese Restaurant.

We started to climb up the Altiplano, the scenery was amazing! Toilets stops in the middle of nowhere were very funny, all blokes were lined up! We the girls got only smiles and truckers horning while passing by! After a while we saw the first Glimpses of El Misti volcano. After a big climb, we made a photo stop, where the views over El Misti volcano and the other mountains (Chachani, Ampato, Pichupichu) were fantastic!

El Misti volcano is the second largest in the country; El Misti means “the gentlemen” and had become Arequipa’s enduring symbol.

Most of the city colonial buildings were constructed from El Misti’s white volcanic stone. The volcano’s last eruption was 1870. It stands at 5,822m, and lies between the mountains Chachani 6,075m and Picchu-Picchu 5,669m.

We arrived in the city of Arequipa at night time were we went out for a meal, some little boys were playing music in the restaurant, I bought them a CD. Frankie and Dianne were very interesting and good travelling companions, I am glad I met them! We stayed at the Tierra del Sur hotel.

Day 7: Friday 9 September 2005

I woke up on Arequipa, the hotel was situated a few metres from Plaza del Armas.

Arequipa: Arequipa is the nation second largest city. The city has many fine colonial era Spanish buildings built of sillar, a pearly white volcanic rock used extensively in the construction of the city, from which its nickname “la Citutad Blanca”, the white city.

The city is located at 2,380m above sea level. It is often says that the city’s name comes from the Quechua phrase “Ari-quepay” which means “yes stay”. Nowadays ones assume that the name is from Aymara “Aris” (peak) and Kipa (locative) and means something like “near the mountain”.

History:

In the 15th century, the region, then occupied by the Aymara Indians was conquered by the Inca and served as an important supplier of agrarian products to the Inca empire. The modern city of Arequipa was founded on the 15th of August 1540 by Garcia Manuel de Garbajal an emissary of Spanish Conquistador Francisco Pizarro. Arequipa is much subject to earthquakes, it was destroyed by one in 1868, on June 23, 2001, Arequipa was badly damaged by an earthquake of 7.9 on the Richter scale.

After a nice breakfast, we went to the Market, Rob told us not to take the cameras or wallets with us, as it will go pretty quickly (pickpockets!). At the time I was feeling sick because of my Malaria tablets, and totally lost my appetite, but I decided to go. We enter the market after a short walk, it was nice, and lots of different items were being sold, lots of fruits and vegetables, and hats. When we went back to the hotel David, the oldest member of the group noticed that his camera has been stolen, it is a shame, but he should have not come with it! I felt really sorry for him. He was taken to the police station. Later we made our way to the monastery of Santa Catalina.

Santa Catalina Monastery:

The Monasterio De Santa Catalina is a cloistered convent. It was constructed 1580, and was enlarged in the 17th century. The over 20,000m/sq monastery is characterised by the vividly painted walls. There are approximately 20 nuns living in the northern corner of the complex, the rest of the monastery is opened to the public. The founder of the monastery was a rich widow, Maria de Guzman. The tradition of the time indicated that the second son or daughter of a family will enter religious service, and the convent only accepted women. Each nun at Santa Catalina had between one and four servants or slaves, and the nun invited musicians to perform in the convent, gave parties and generally had a lavished lifestyle. Each family paid a dowry at their daughter’s entrance to the convent and the dowry owned to gain the highest status, was equivalent to 1,200 silver coins, equivalent to $50,000 today.

The nuns were also required to bring 25 listed items, including statues, paintings, a lamp, and clothes. The wealthiest nuns may have brought fine English China, silk curtains and rugs. The convent once housed approximately 450 people (1/3 of nuns, the rest were servants). It was opened to the public in 1970 when the nuns opened their doors to tourism to pay for the installation of the electricity and running water as required by law.

Thanks to David, and his report from Globosapiens.net, it helped me to gather a few facts which I forgot about!

Our guide at the convent was very nice, different places catered for different classes and this was for the wealthy, whose families paid a substantial sum to get accepted as novices.

On the way out we decided to go for a drink, I was still not eating but feeling better after I dumped my pills. We stopped in cafe on a balcony above Plaza del Armas, watching the world go by. I choose a coca tea, the owner gave a sample of Llama meat, I decided to give a try, it was lovely, the only that managed to get down in 2 days. We saw a demonstration in the street below, it was people being angry at the price of petrol (£2.50/litre), then it was the nurses wanted a better pay, and more resources.

Traffic was reopened, and the thousands of passenger less yellow taxis were back in action, looking for potential ghostly customers. The owner being really nice took us on the top of the roof of Plaza del Armas; it was really a much better view than from the ground! We could see El Misti between the towers of the Cathedral. The owner was very interested in linguistics, he knew a lot about it. Then he gave us a tour of its kitchen, where a llama leg was cooking on hot stones on a fire. I have to admit that first I was not to keen about eating it, but that was the only think coming down.

We stopped to do some shopping, and later with David and Pam, we took a taxi to the Northern suburbs, to a view point just before sunset. You could see El Misti between the arches of the church, it was really lovely! Then we went out for dinner, I like Arequipa, it was really a lovely place!

Day 8: Saturday 10 September 2005

After breakfast, I was invited to ride at the front of the truck, next to Rob. I was really glad as it was the most beautiful part of the trip and I will have the best views of the house! So I am the Co-pilot for the day (Oh dear!), UK vehicle, and left hand drive in a right hand drive country: Great!!! So it is my responsibility to look if we overtake, any one wants to get off now???? Are you sure??? We left at 06.00 am (it is like going to work!) and we made our way up to the Altiplano, next stop: Chivay!

The Altiplano (Spanish for “High Plain”), where the Andes are at their widest, is the most extensive area of plateau on earth outside Tibet. It is an area of inland drainage lying in the central Andes, occupying parts of Chile, Argentina, Bolivia and Peru. Its height averages about 3,300 metres. We started to see some llamas even baby ones, they were so cute! It was mainly dirt roads to go to Chivay, so the ride was a little bumpy! I started to chat with Rob, talking about our lives as expats. We stopped for picnic at lunch times there was not a house to be seen for hundreds kilometres around! Within minutes, chairs and cutlery were out, our menu, pumpkin soup, homemade!

It was really lovely! It is really lovely, the scenery is really amazing! “Ze Truck”, as I called it, is really amazing; it is surprising how many things you can store in it! There were no more trees at this altitude, the road was starting to climb and climb and climb, until we reached the high pass of 4,800m, near as high as Mt Blanc! On the pass it was very cold, the air was very thin. There were lots of vendors selling woollies; I bought a Peruvian hat, oh! It is so nice and warm! We left to make our way down to Chivay; we were all suffering of headaches as we climb too quickly. At our arrival we stopped at the “Caldera Hot springs” on the far side of Chivay. Inside there are sets of swimming pools and steam rooms. In the outside pool, you can float on the water while watching the mountains, fabulous! That was so relaxing, it was really nice! I nearly fell asleep in the water, I never had that experience anywhere else, and I loved it! My headache went away in no times! We stayed at the Hotel “Colca Inn” in Chivay; most of us went out for a meal in this deserted town.

Day 9: Sunday 11 September 2005

The Victory for the slot of the excitement goes to Colca Canyon.  We were all ready at 05.30 with our bags (getting earlier each day! It is like going to work for me!). We left Chivay at 6.00 to be in front of the traffic from Arequipa and Cuzco. We were doing very well until smoke emerged from the bottom of our truck and small explosions took place. (Very ironic considering the day!) We pressed the emergency button, they: all of the others got out quickly, apart from 3 of us!

Flames were starting to go inside our truck. I could not get out as the others, so I had to climb out of the window (lucky I am not too fat!) with Dianne and Frankie, I was not laughing at the time, but thinking of it now, this was really hilarious! Ben the tall guy caught me on my way out!  We were lucky that it was a small fire.

Rob and Rose open the tool box which came from a weird place of “Ze Truck”, and we all just keep on looking and staring at Rob trying to fix it as well as other tourist buses overtaking us! Within 40 minutes the problem was temporarily fixed, I was impressed by the quick repair! The arrival point was “Cruz del Condor” and we were very lucky enough to see 20 of them at the same time, some crossing the sky, some perched on rocks. While we were watching the condors, Rob and Jose were still fixing the truck. As far as the canyon recent studies shows that it’s nearly twice the depth of the Grand Canyon in the US.

A village at the bottom would make any toy village look huge by comparison”! Much sides of the valley, where it is wider have terraces in use from way before the Incas and still in use today, using the fertile volcanic soil to their advantage.

Colca Canyon is a canyon of the Cola river, it is located 160 km north of Arequipa. The deepest point is at 3,269 metres, it is much deeper than the Grand Canyon, however the Yarlung Tsangpo canyon along the Brahmaputra in Tibet are now thought to be the deepest canyons of the world at 5,075m deep. Since the canyon is a major feature of the landscape it is easy recognisable of satellites photos of the region.

The name Colca refers to small holes in the cliffs in the valleys of the canyon. These holes were used in Inca times to store food, such as potatoes and other Andeans crops. They were also used as tombs for important people.

The Andean condors are what attract increasingly more visitors each year at the Colca Canyon. The canyon is the habitat of the great Andean Condor, a species that has seen world-wide effort to preserve it.

Cruz Del Condor is a popular tourist stop to view the condors, who are hunting in the early morning and late afternoon. At this point of the canyon, the floor is at 1,200m below the rim of the canyon.

The Andean Condor wingspan is 274-310cm. It weights up to 11-15 kg for males and 7.5-11 kg for the females. The adult plumage is of uniform black at the exception of a frill of white feathers surrounding the base of the neck. Mature males have white patches on their wings. The birds flap their wings on rising from the ground, but after attaining a moderate altitude they seem to sail on the air. They can fly up to 1/2 hour without flapping their wings.

On the way back, we took the dirt road and stopped to collect cactus fruits which we later ate, it was really lovely, it tasted like sour kiwi. We saw some locals selling knitwear and cactus fruits as well, as we run out, I bought some for later, for my personal consumption! I saw the holes that the Incas were using for storage; it is the origin of the name of the Colca Canyon.

The view over the canyon was really superb, amazing! The condors could be described as pretty but observing them flying in the air current was great. I felt privileged. We returned to Chivay to have lunch and then we started to make our way to Puno, the town on the shore of Lake Titicaca.

Back on the tarmac! On a sharp bend, David lost his balance on fell on the ground, we hit the emergency button (twice in a day, are we going for the Guinness book?), so Rob could stop while David was picking himself up. Funny loo stops on the way again… with happy truckers….!

We opened a bottle of wine on board and played the Spanish version of the Lima Monopoly.

I was very excited when we arrived on the shore of Lake Titicaca in Puno, by nightfall. We stayed at the hotel “Italia”.

Day 10: Monday 12 September 2005

Puno is a port city on Lake Titicaca with a population of nearly 110,000. The primary reason people visit Puno is to reach Lake Titicaca.

We left our hotel at 09.00 with a pedal taxi to get to the port, on the way we stopped at the market to buy fresh fruits for our host family. We saw a big group from “Explore”, Rob was taking the Mickey of them that was very funny! Then we boarded our boat, and stating to make our way on Lake Titicaca.

Lake Titicaca means Grey Puma in Quechua (Titi is Puma and caca is grey or rock). I was really happy to be there.

Lake Titicaca is the highest commercially navigable lake in the world, at 3,821m above sea level. It is also South America’s largest fresh water lake, with a surface of 8,300 square kilometres. Titicaca has an average depth between 140m and 180m and a maximum depth of 280m.

The Western part of the lake belongs to the Puno Region of Peru, and the Eastern side is located in the Bolivian region of La Paz.

More than 25 rivers empty into Lake Titicaca, and the lake have got 41 islands, some of which are densely populated.

The origin of the name of Lake Titicaca is unknown. It has been translated as “rock Puma” allegedly because of its resemblance to the shape of a Puma hunting a rabbit, combining the words from the local languages Quechua and Aymara. Locally the lake goes by several names.

The legend said that Viracocha (creator god) was born in the Lake Titicaca, he appear here on Lake Titicaca and that he created the Earth, the Sun (Inti), the Moon (Mama Quilla), and the Stars, then according to the myth, he would have created off the Andean tribes and would have teach them how to live in harmony. This myth represents the Act of Constitution of the Andean Civilisation. Respect between the dead and the living, the man and its environment was a fundamental law according to Viracocha in the Andean agricultural life.

In Inca mythology, Apu Qun Tiqsi Wiracutra was the creator of civilisation as well as one of the most important gods for the Incas.

In one legend he had one son, Inti and one daughter Mama Quilla. In this legend, he destroyed the people around Lake Titicaca with a great flood called Uru Pachahuti, saving 2 to bring civilisation to the world. In another legend, he fathered the first eight civilized human beings. Huira (vira) means source of energy in Quecha and Cacha means lake or sea.

After a while, our first stop was on the Uros Floating Islands which are the nearest from Puno.

Titicaca is notable for a population of people who live on the Uros, a group of about 40 artificial islands made of floating reeds. These islands have become a major tourist attraction for Peru, drawing excursions from the lakeside city of Puno.

Lake Titicaca has fascinated generations of people since pre-Inca times with its intense blue water. Here, Indigenous culture is at its height despite modernisation of the rest of the Andes.

The Uros Islands are divided into 35 floating islands with about 1,000 inhabitants divided into 250 families. Uros means “wild animal” in Quecha, but it was not their original name. They were first called Kappi which means fisherman/hunter in Quechua. In the 13th century however, the Incas coming from Cuzco had in a few years conquered all the Andes including Lake Titicaca which is the source of their mythology (they believed that the sun was born on the lake’s waters). At the time of the conquest, the Uros Indians were first living on the edges of the lake. They took refuge in the middle of the lake’s water in order to escape slavery and fighting with the Incas.

They adapted to their new life quickly thanks to the use of the reeds called Totoras and they lived a completely self sufficient life. They were thriving, they created more than a new way of life, it was a new “reed civilisation” based on fishing and hunting! The Carache is the main fish of the lake and the Uros use it for food and to barter with Aymara Indians living on the mainland in Puno. They swap fish against other products such as potatoes, fruits, clothes …

There are 4 main islands welcoming tourists: Toranipata, Huaca, Huacani and Santa Maria. The boat stopped at Toranipata Island, where the local Uros live mainly from tourism by selling souvenirs.

The bigger island will host about 10 families; the smaller one, only 30 metres in diameter will only have 2 or 3.

All the houses or huts on each island are built in reed, there is only one level, usually consisting of one room with a separate corner for the kitchen. Toranipata Island even has a small museum with stuffed animals and birds found on the lake.

Walking on the floor of the island was a curious sensation.

The islands, consisting of reed, are fragile. The islands rot from the bottom very quickly so new reeds must be added constantly on the top.

Only the end root (the white bit!) of the Totoras can be eaten. The rest is used to build boats called Balsa. We also took a boat ride which was built entirely of reed.

We received a warm welcome from the Indians, and the children were inquisitive. It was the experience in general that was really fascinating.

We even had a ride on reed boat, I tried to make it moved it was a bit hard for me, as I did not get used to it, but for the islanders, it seems to be effort less!

The Uros Islands visit was really fascinating!

After leaving the Uros we boarded the boat again to go on Amantani Island where we were due to spend the night, I even played the “Captain” for a while as I had the chance to drive the boat (safely)!

Amantaní is another small island in Lake Titicaca populated by Quechua speakers. About 800 families live in six villages on the basically circular 15-square kilometre island. Strangely enough, some locals are scared of the water. There is no monster on Lake Titicaca (unless you drank 3 bottles of Pisco)! The island is very beautiful and peaceful. Amantani is divided into 8 different communities.

When we reach the island, there were a number of local women in local traditional dress who were each allocated a guess by the head of the village, which I had the privilege to stay in his house!

My host led me to her house, which about ten minutes walk up from the port. She had a son called Vidal and was 9 years old.

There are two mountain peaks, called Pachatata (Father Earth) and Pachamama (Mother Earth), and ancient ruins on the top of both peaks. Pachamama occupies an important part in the life of the local Aymaras people, as it is seen as the source of life. They believe that Man was created from the land. According to them, the Earth is our mother.

The hillsides that rise up from the lake are terraced and planted with wheat, potatoes, and vegetables. Most of the small fields are worked by hand. Long stone fences divide the fields, and cattle, sheep, and alpacas graze on the hillsides.

There are no cars on the island, and no hotels. A few small stores sell basic goods, and there is a health clinic and school. Electricity is produced by a generator and limited to a couple of hours each day.

The terrace system is the most glaring example of the physical exertion which has occurred on the island over the years. Nearly the entire island is covered in terraces reinforced with stone walls. Although not architectural masterpieces, the volume of stone that has been moved and placed into position by hand to create the terraces over the centuries is incredible.

The locals are quite friendly. They derive some income from the tourists that visit the island. Some Amantani host people in their homes, others sell chocolate and Coca-Cola to westerners.

There is now provision for nursery and primary schooling on the island, the first language is Quechua and the second is Spanish. There is no medical provision on the island and they depend on herbal remedies.

After settling down I popped in to the kitchen to help the lady to prepare dinner.

The food was warm and plentiful. It consisted primarily of a Quinoa soup (vegetable) and a potato like vegetable. Unfortunately my Spanish is atrocious, even more so is my Quechuan, so I was unable to communicate with my host family a great deal. It was cooked in a clay oven heated by a wood fire. Peru is home of the potatoes and they claimed to have more than 600 different types.

We walk up to the Temple of Pachamama on the top of the Island to see the sunset. It started raining only for a few minutes, but we were really wet. Then a beautiful rainbow appeared. It was very nice. Along the way a little boy played “Frère Jacques” with his flute, it was very sweet. Half way through the local woman left us on the football pitch, where a match of Locals versus tourist was taking place, obviously the locals won it!

We finally reach the Temple of Pachamama and Pachatata, the sunset over the Lake Titicaca was marvellous, in order to have good luck with had to walk three times around the temple against the clock side.

In Inca mythology, Mama Pacha or Pachamama was a dragoness fertility goddess who presided over planting and harvesting. She caused earthquakes. Her husband was either Pacha Camac or Inti, depending on the source. Llamas were sacrificed to her. Catholic conquest replaced her image with Virgin Mary with which she is identified in some parts of Peru.

As visitors to Amantani we were treated to a concert and dance after dinner in a community building. Everyone dresses in the local traditional dress and is expected to dance. The dances popular on the island are easy to master!

I was so happy to see of these local Indians lives, they were speaking a little bit of Spanish but mainly Quecha, I was hit with the language barrier, but this is one thing I will never forget, my stay on Lake Titicaca with a local family was a must!

In the evening the head of the family and the local community cut his foot, I played the nurse and gave spare plasters and bandages. I felt a bit guilty by taking off my medical kit, they had nothing! I wonder what they think of us!

Later I learned that only get pay $6 per night per person they have, when I saw that some local agencies will charge you $200 for 2 Days 1 night on the Lake it is a complete rip off and insult to the locals!

Day 11: Tuesday 13 September 2005

After spending the night on Amantani Island we boarded the boat to spend the late morning and afternoon on Taquile Island.

The people of Taquile Island (around 3,000), off the coast from Puno, are known for their fine handmade textile products, among the highest quality in Peru. After arriving by boat we gently trek to the main village Plaza.

Taquile Island is similar to Amantani Island, but much more developed. Terraces on Taquile just the same as on Amantani, but there are a greater number and greater variety of buildings. Life involves some measure of physical hardship on Amantani and Taquile Island.

In the main village there is a cooperative market where goods of knitwear made on the island are sold. A number is attached on each item, so the payment gets back to the maker. It is the primary economic activity of the islanders.

The marital status of both sexes is shown on Taquile by the colour of the head covering, and the length of the wool ball at the end of their woolly hat. Officials wear black hats. Married men red ones, singles red and white (it is also the same for women).

After lunch on Taquile we took the boat back to Puno, but not before climbing down the Inca steps, I was told there were 540, but it felt more than 700 hundreds!

The boat ride was very nice; I lay back on the roof trying to improve my sun tan. When we arrived in Puno, I saw some children being dressed up walking and dancing in the streets. There was also a Policeman doing the traffic by hand in a little booth sponsored by “Inca Cola” (it tasted like Irn Bru).

Day 12: Wednesday 14 September 2005

Back on “Ze Truck”, we drove on the scenic route on the Altiplano to Cuzco.

As we took the road out of Puno you could see the town below, it was really lovely.

First we stop at Sillustani.

Tim and Paul were recovering from a terrible hangover, it was very funny, when we arrived at Sillustani, as the guide was speaking Paul, lied down on the grass, as he could barely stand up!

Sillustani is a pre-Incan burial ground. The tombs, which are built above ground in tower-like structures called chullpas, are the vestiges of the Colla people, Aymara who were conquered by the Inca in the years 1400.

The structures housed the remains of complete family groups, although they were probably limited to nobility. Ancestor worship and kinship were integral parts of Aymara culture, and the chullpas were built to emphasize the connection between life and death.

The insides of the tombs were shaped like a woman’s uterus, and corpses were mummified in a foetal position to recreate their birth.

Some of the tombs also have lizards carved into the stone. Because they could re-grow their tails, lizards were considered a symbol of life. The doors of the tombs face east, because it is believed that is where the sun is born from the mother earth each and every day.

We left our guide on the side of the road and continue our way. The landscape was really amazing, the Altiplano was really superb, and we even saw the railway line, the highest in the world!

The truck was pulling up to La Raya pass at 4,313 metres. We stopped for a photo; some local women were posing with a little lamb and a llama.

There was a small dilapidated train station and a church further down. La Raya is one of the greatest watershed of South America, from here northwards all the water run eventually to the Amazon River. Some vendors were selling knitwear.

Along this route, Inca Civilisation was born. Long before there was Inca class, Manco Capac, son of the Sun God and Mama Oclo, daughter of the moon, rose from the waters of Lake Titicaca and travelled this way, looking for a place where to settle. Eventually they reached a place where Manco Capac plunged his golden ting into the ground only to see it sink and disappear. They called the place Cusco “the navel of the Earth” and it became the Capital of the Inca Empire.

Then we started to descend.

We had a picnic lunch at a petrol station, the music was blasting off! It attracted a few local kids that were very curious. They were very happy to finish the rest of our meal!

We arrived in Cusco early evening.

We stayed at the Plaza Cusco II hotel. This is a lovely hotel with rooms which are above a courtyard…

Day 13: Thursday 15 September 2005

Cusco (also spelt Cuzco with a z), mythical capital of the Inca empire, preserves its stone walls and battlements with pride.

At 3,360 metres in the Huatanay valley, visiting Cusco is an unforgettable experience, I uncovered some of the Inca mysteries because Cusco has been called the “Navel of the Universe”.

Cusco, the mystical capital of the Inca Empire, proudly keeps its walls made of stone that evoke the nobility of the sons of the sun. Cusco is the city full of historic monuments and relics, myths and legends that seem to be reborn every time we pass by its centenarian streets.

Visiting the old city of Cusco, located at the Huatanay River Valley, in the south eastern Andes in Peru at 3,360 metres is an unforgettable experience that allows uncovering some of the Incas’ mysteries since Cusco was the centre of the Andean world.

The history of the Imperial city, according to a legend, goes back to the XI or XII Century when the first Inca, Manco Capac, founded Cusco in compliance with a mandate from the Sun God. On March 23, 1534, Francisco Pizarro carried out the Spanish foundation of Cusco.

Cusco is surrounded by impressive archaeological remains like the Machu Picchu citadel, the Saqsaywaman fortress, the Ollantaytambo complex and picturesque towns such as Pisaq, Calca and Yucuay, which keep their ancestors traditions.

The Inca city, Post Columbian Cusco

The city was planned to be shaped like a crouching puma (a divinity in the Inca Empire). The head of the Puma is situated in Saqsaywaman. The city had two sectors: the Urin and Hanan. (These are further divides in smaller areas).

A road led from each of these quarters to the corresponding quarter of the empire.

It is said that all together there was 40 roads leaving from Cusco to go to all directions of the empire. Each local leader was required to build a house in the city and live part of the year in Cusco, but only in the quarter of Cusco that corresponded to the quarter of the empire he had territory in. After Pachacuti, when an Inca died his title went to one son and his property was given to a corporation controlled by his other relatives, so each title holder had to build a new house and add new lands to the empire, in order to own any home and the land his family needed to maintain it after his death.

Andean Indians still abandon their homes and build new ones when they marry, even if no one remains in the house. According to Inca legend, the city was built by Sapa Inca Pachacuti, the man who transformed the Kingdom of Cusco from a sleepy city-state into the vast empire of Tahuantinsuyu. But archaeological evidence points to a slower, more organic growth of the city beginning before Pachacuti. There was however a city plan and two rivers were channelled around the city.

Its streets were narrow, usually straight up and duly paved. The building walls of the central zone of the city were made of carved stones, whereas suburbs have walls made of Abode (sun dried brick).

Life in the old Cusco city turned around its great Square. It was known that it was large and it was divided into two sectors by the Saphi (”Root”) river. Tawantinsuyo’s most important political and religious ceremonies were held in one of these sectors, which were called Haukaypata, word that would mean “Ceremonial Sector”. However, there is a controversy regarding the name of this sector. The tradition and some researchers state that the original name was Wakaypata (The Crying Sector). The other half of the Square encompassed the Kusipata (Joy Sector), because after the great ceremonies people gathered there in order to celebrate their parties, eat and drink.

This great Square was paved in different segments with stone labs, and it was covered with sea sand so as to avoid causing troubles during the rainy seasons. In the centre of these two sectors there was a special high platform known as “Usnu” from where the Incas and priests or other officials spoke to the people.

The first Spaniards arrived to the city on November 15th, 1533. Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro, however, officially re-founded Cusco on March 23rd, 1534, naming it the “Very noble and great city of Cusco”. The many buildings constructed after the Spanish conquest are of Spanish influence with a mix of Inca architecture, including the Santa Clara and San Blas barrios. The Spanish undertook the construction of a new city on the foundations of the old Inca city, replacing temples with churches and palaces with mansions for the conquerors.

During the colony, the city of Cusco was very prosperous thanks to the agriculture, cattle rising, mining as well as the trade with Spain. This allowed the construction of many churches and convents, and even a Cathedral, University and an Archbishopric. Often, Spanish buildings were juxtaposed atop the massive stone walls built by the Inca.

Property was given to a corporation controlled by his other relatives, so each title holder had to build a new house and add new lands to the empire, in order to own any home and the land his family needed to maintain it after his death.

The major earthquake that hit Cusco in 1950 badly destroyed the Dominican Priory and Church of Santo Domingo, which were built on top of the impressive Koricancha (Temple of the Sun).

The city’s Inca architecture, however, firmly withstood the earthquake. Many of the old Inca walls were thought to have been lost after the earthquake, but the granite walls of the Koricancha were exposed, as well as many walls throughout the city.

The city has a population of about 300,000; triple the population it contained just 20 years ago. We bought ourselves a museum card valid for the Cusco area; it will entitle us access to the main sites.

I went out with Roger and Malcolm. We were given clear instructions by Rob, “do not carry valuables” and “watch out”… He also asked us to be careful with our bods (bodies), are we are in altitude now. Our first stop within walking distance was the Main Square.

Cusco Main square:

During the time of the Incas it was called Huacaypata or Square of the Warrior. It was the setting of various crucial events throughout the history of Cusco. Every year, people celebrated in this place the Inti Raymi or Sun Festivity; and this was also the place in where Francisco Pizarro proclaimed the conquest of Cusco.

With the Spaniards arrival, the square was surrounded by stone arches that even today embellish it. (Centre of the city).

Cradle of legendary feats, the Main Square of Cusco was called “Huaca Ypata” or “Square of the Warrior” during the time of the Incas. It reminds us of times when it was a significant ceremonial place where, every year, they carried out the spectacular celebration of Inti Raymi or “Sun Festivity”. It was the place where Francisco Pizarro, together with his Spanish entourage, proclaimed the conquest of Cusco, or the setting in where the Indigenous caudillo Tupac Amaru was executed.

The square was transformed with the Spaniards arrival. The stone arches, as well as the constructions that even today surround the square, were built during that period. It is surrounded by a beautiful arcade that was constructed during the conquest.

The Cathedral:

The whole structure is magnificent and it can be said that the Cusco Cathedral is one of the most beautiful and significant monuments of America. Its proportions have unique amplitude. Its towers are separated by a distance that exceeds the permitted limits in any Western example, so as to grant this first Spanish temple in the Incas capital a greater front and settling.

The actual Cathedral was declared built in 1664.

The design is constituted by a Latin-cross base, the façade has a Renaissance style, very ornamental, and it contains the best manifestations of colonial goldsmith and wood carving, as well as a valuable collection of canvases from the Escuela Cusqueña (Academy of Cusco).

There are two auxiliary chapels on its both sides: Capilla del Triunfo and Jesus, Maria y Jose.

Many of its stone blocks have an Incan origin and were brought from the neighbouring fortress of Sacsayhuamán.

We also went to see El Trionfo church.

Museo Inka:

This museum rests on Inca foundations and was repaired after both the 1650 and 1950 earthquakes to maintain its position among Cuzco’s finest colonial houses. It is also the best museum for those interested in the Incas, boasting a fine collection of metal and gold work, jewellery, pottery, textiles, mummies and more.

The massive stairway is guarded by sculptures of mythical creatures, as well as a corner window column that looks like a statue of a bearded man from the inside but from the outside appears to be a naked woman. The facade is plateresque – an elaborately ornamented 16th-century Spanish style suggestive of silver plate. The ceilings are also ornate, and you get a good view from the windows.

It is the best museum for those interested in the Incas, boasting a fine collection of metal and gold works, jewellery, pottery, textiles, mummies… and many more.

We had lunch on the Plaza; they were even serving the Peruvian speciality, a Guinea pig! I also sample the local beer Cuzquenia.

It was a pleasure to walk around the city, the Inca culture is really present everywhere you go. Cusco is really an impressive city, really beautiful as well and well-preserved. The local are also very nice.

It is so colourful! I found the city streets really clean and well-kept.

Incan stonework is known for its mortar less construction and expert precision. Fine Incan masonry can be grouped into two categories: polygonal and coursed or rectangular. Typically polygonal construction consists of irregularly shaped blocks. This type of masonry is found in canals, terrace walls and very rarely in buildings. Coursed masonry is composed of large rectangular blocks and is commonly used in perimeter walls and in the corners of buildings. Inka doors and windows were normally trapezoidal in shape. Often there is a stone loop either above or beside the doorway, so that the door could be tied and kept open.

Usually the walls of Incan buildings were slightly inclined inside and the corners were rounded. This, in combination with masonry thoroughness, led Incan buildings to have a peerless seismic resistance thanks to high static and dynamic steadiness, absence of resonant frequencies and stress concentration points.

During earthquakes with small or moderate magnitudes masonry was stable, and during a strong earthquake stone blocks were “dancing” near their normal positions and lay down exactly in right order after an earthquake.

We saw the Inca stones, it was fascinating!

The Inca stones:

The 12-angled stone. Nearby there are also some Inca stones with 13 and 14 angles, although these are not in original Inca walls. The precision with which stones are fitted together is amazing, and the trapezoidal design, with the walls tapering in as they get higher, ensures their strength in earthquakes. Many of the walls throughout the city that look as if they are Inca in origin were actually built after the Spanish conquest.

The Spaniards, recognising the brilliance of the Inca stonework, used native stonemasons to build many of the walls of their palaces.

I bought an Andean Pan flute at the local market.

We made our way to the San Blast district, uphill!

San Blast District:

It is one of the most picturesque communities of Cusco. It is characterized by its narrow and steep streets that zigzag among old colonial houses constructed with walls of Incan stone. It is a community of the city centre, which is also known as the Community of the Artisans, or the “District of the Artists”, since it houses numerous workshops and stores of famous popular artists like Hilario Mendívil, Edilberto Mérida, Santiago Rojas and Maximiliano Palomino. During the Incan times it was one of the most significant districts of Cusco and its name was “T’oqo-kachi” (T’oqo = dip; kachi = salt). Just like other districts, it was inhabited by the Quechua nobility.

The Church of San Blas:

The church contains one of the most interesting attractions in the entire city – the famous carved wooden pulpit.

This is a superb carving and contains much interesting imagery and it is worth taking a guide, available in the church, to explain this. The church was built in the mid 16th century on the site of the Inca Temple of Thunder and Lightning, although the pulpit was not begun until 1680.

We started to make our way down, back to the hotel, we made a stop at a café, we ordered a Pisco saour, I also tried my flute, and we bought some postcard to a little boy. Another one came to polish my shoes (they really needed it!).

It was really cheap, I felt sorry for these kids that had to work in order to survive, and they did not have Play stations, like European spoiled brats! Children are slaves of the tourism industry; since the end of the civil war that lasted for over ten years with the guerrilleros of the Shining Path. It was a Maoist Guerrilla, who wanted to install a communist regime in Peru with violence, murders and attacks. They were eventually clamped down by the government when the leader was arrested in 1992. Since the end of that war Peru experienced an exceptional growth in tourism with millions of visitors every year.

Tourism created jobs and a wealth very unequally distributed. For poor children begging, polishing tourists’ shoes, posing for photos and selling souvenirs are a way to earn a few soles to help their family. Most of them are abused by the police and sniff glue as well. Some of them have never been to school…. at the worst some ends up in prostitution rings. Officially, children are not allowed to work below the age of 12 according to the United Nations, but I can tell you that I have seen kids a lot younger in the streets of Lima Cusco! Life is getting better for them as more shelters are created for street kids.

It was really a pleasure to walk around this city full of Inca culture, it is really present everywhere you go. Cusco is really an impressive city, really beautiful and well preserved. The city is so colourful!

In the evening we met Mario, he will be our guide for the Inca trail. We were given our kit bags, and instruction for the trip, that was sounding very exciting!

In the evening I went to eat to a French Restaurant, a crêperie not far from the Hotel, on my own.

Day 15: Friday 16 September 2005

We left Cuzco, and made our way up to the fortress of Sacsayhuaman (pronounced as sexy woman!)

It is an amazing Inca construction. In Quechua its name means “Satisfied Falcon”, it was the Falcon that guarded the capital of the empire, since you can overlook the city from the hill where it was built. Cuzco was designed with the shape of a lying Puma, Sacsayhuaman was his head.

Like all Inca stonework there is still mystery surrounding how they were constructed. Thanks to an as yet unexplained precision in stone-cutting, the structure is built in such a way that a single piece of paper will not fit between two stones. This precision, combined with the rounded corners of the limestone blocks, the variety of their interlocking shapes, and the way the walls lean inward (ubiquitous in Inca architecture), is thought to increase the ruins’ incredible durability during devastating earthquakes in Cuzco have left it undamaged.

Sacsayhuaman is usually described as a fortress because it is practically enclosed by three slopes. However, the fact that the Incas constructed a fortress in that place is unusual, since at the moment of its construction they did not face major threats. Its shape and location would have responded to other principles, such as the harmony between architecture and landscape.

Current investigations suggest that it must have been a temple devoted to the worship of the Sun.

At the time of our visit, a lot of school children were reversing a play. But it was still pleasant to visit the ruins. The stones were huge; it is really a wonder how they managed to built that considering the technology of the time.

We continued and stop quickly at another ruin, or temple called Quenko, a few miles from Cuzco. In Quechua, it means labyrinth, here Llamas were sacrificed to the gods.

Then we went back on the bus, and started to drive through the Sacred Valley. David and Pam stayed in Cusco as they were not taking part in the Inca Trail. Then we arrived in the Sacred Valley.

The Sacred Valley:  (Urubamba Valley)

The valley was appreciated by the Incas due to its special geographical and climatic qualities. It was one of the empire’s main points for the extraction of natural wealth, and the best place for maize production in Peru.

The Sacred Valley of the Incas was undoubtedly a key area of settlement to the Incas. Its agreeable climate and fertile plains make a rare and fruitful combination for the high Andes. It was also the route to the jungle and therefore an area with access to the fruits and plants of the tropical lowlands. The Sacred Valley served as a buffer zone, protecting Cusco from incursions of the Antis, the fierce jungle tribes who from time to time raided the highlands.

Today the Sacred Valley remains a lush agricultural region supplying the city of Cusco with much of its produce such as maize, fruit and vegetables.

The Sacred Valley of the Incas spreads along the Vilcanota River (the same that going down takes the name of Urubamba or Willcamayu). It embraces the area included between the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo.

We stopped at a nice belvedere where we had amazing views I also took the opportunity to relieve myself! We saw the snowy peaks of Chicon, Vtkav Willca (also known as Puma Sillo or Veronica), Piturisay, Sawasiray, Terijway and Sunchobamba (all of them are tops of the chain of mountains of the Vilcanota up to 5,000 metres high).

After a short while we arrived at the ruins of Pisac.

Pisac:

It derives from the Quechua word “pisaq” or p’isaqa”, which means partridge, which is a short tailed game bird (perdrix) with brown feathers. According to the traditional Incan architecture, the cities were built base on figurative designs of animals. Pisac was partridge shaped, as we can tell by its name.

Pisac is a Peruvian village in the Sacred Valley on the Urubamba River. The village is situated 32 km to the northeast of Cuzco.

The area is perhaps best known for its Incan ruins, known as Inca Pisac, which lie atop a hill at the entrance to the valley.

The ruins are separated along the ridge into four groups: Pisaqa, Intihuatana, Q’Allaqasa, and Kinchiracay. Intihuatana includes a number of bathes and temples. The Temple of the Sun, a volcanic outcrop carved into a “hitching post” for the Sun (or Inti), is the focus, and the angles of its base suggest that it served some astronomical function. Q’Allaqasa, which is built onto a natural spur and overlooks the valley, is known as the citadel.

The hillside is lined with agricultural terraces constructed by the Inca and still in use today. With military, religious, and agricultural structures, the site served at least a triple purpose. Besides a country estate, it is thought that Pisac defended the southern entrance to the Sacred Valley, while Choquequirau defended the western entrance and the fortress at Ollantaytambo the northern.

We trekked along the ruins of Pisac for an hour, and then after, I drank a nice orange juice.

We had lunch in town of Pisac (2,970m), while waiting for my meal, I went shopping at the market, I bought a blanket for 100 soles after bargaining. The first price being 450 soles…however an American tourist arriving, as I was leaving, forked out 600 for it … cash-in-hand no better…

After we continued to Ollantaytambo, where we are due to spend the night.

Ollantaytambo:

The origin of the name has several approaches. According to the Aymara language, Ollantaytambo derives from the word ulla-nta-wi, which means place to look downwards, the word tambo is added subsequently.

Ollantaytambo, can also means something like “Storehouse of my Lord,”

Ollantaytambo is an attractive little town located at the western end of the Sacred Valley. The town has been built on top of original Inca foundations and is the best surviving example of Inca town planning. The town is divided in canchas (blocks) which are almost entirely intact. Each cancha has only one entrance (usually a huge stone doorway) which leads into a central courtyard. The houses surround the courtyard. Good examples of this construction can be found behind the main plaza.

The town is located at the foot of some spectacular Inca ruins which protected the strategic entrance to the lower Urubamba Valley.

The temple area is at the top of steep terracing which helped to provide excellent defences. Stone used for these buildings was brought from a quarry high up on the opposite side of the Urubamba River – an incredible feat involving the efforts of thousands of workers. The complex was still under construction at the time of the conquest and was never completed.

The Royal House of the Sun: On a hillside overlooking the town is a monumental Incan complex, commonly referred to as a fortaleza (fortress) due to its extraordinary walls. It was in fact a tambo, or inn, and was strategically located to dominate the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It was here where Manco Inca retreated to in order to amass his armies after the fall of Cusco to the Spanish conquistadors.

After Manco Inca was defeated by the Spanish at Sacsayhuaman following the unsuccessful siege of Cusco (1536) he retreated to Ollantaytambo.

Francisco Pizarro’s younger brother Hernando led a force of 70 cavalry, 30 foot soldiers and a large contingent of natives to capture Manco Inca. The Inca’s forces, joined by neighbouring jungle tribes, rained down showers of arrows, spears and rocks upon the unfortunate Spanish troops. In an intelligent move the Inca’s flooded the plains below their stronghold making it difficult for the horses to manoeuvre. Hernando, uncharacteristically, ordered a hasty retreat.

Ollantaytambo became the only place ever to have resisted attacks from the Spanish.

However, their victory was short-lived when the Spanish returned with four times their previous force. Manco Inca retreated to his jungle stronghold in Vilcabamba and Ollantaytambo fell into the hands of the Spanish.

The fortress is composed of seventeen superposed terraces made of large carved stones of pink granite of over 4 metres high, 2 metres wide.

The walls of the Royal House of the Sun have an internal inclination and the main one is composed of six large stone blocks. Here is carved the Inca cross (see photo in my album “Sacred Valley”)

The Inca cross looks like a podium, with three steps

-The Huanan Pacha, the Heaven-condor

Lightning and thunder that caused fires and destruction was another deity too.

-The Kay Pacha,  the earth Surface-Puma: A puma (cougar or mountain lion) that was the most powerful of all the Andean fauna, uncontrollable even by man was another god.

- The Ukhu Pacha, the underground-snake: a snake that with just one bite could cause convulsions and death of a fellow was considered as sacred.

On the other side of the mountain, on a rock, you can also see the face of Wiraccocha.

The site was very impressive, in the evening we all went off for a meal where we saw a group called “Pachamama” playing music for us.

Tomorrow we leave for the Inca trail.

Incas were very clever; their road system was very good.

The Inca’s transportation system was why they had such a successful empire. They found that the nature of the society was determined on the kinds of roads it had. The Peruvian society was very civilized. There was not another nation in until the 19th century with a better transportation system than the Incas. Referred to as an all-weather highway system, the over 14,000 miles of Inca roads were an astonishing and reliable precursor to the advent of the automobile. Communication and transport was efficient and speedy, linking the mountain people’s and lowland desert dwellers with Cuzco. Building materials and ceremonial processions travelled thousands of miles along the roads that still exist in remarkably good condition today.

They were built to last and to withstand the extreme natural forces of wind, floods, ice, and drought.

This central nervous system of Inca transport and communication rivalled that of Rome.

A high road crossed the higher regions of the Cordillera from north to south and another lower north-south road crossed the coastal plains.

The Incas transported goods to other neighbouring countries. The Incas hadn’t discovered the wheel yet so they travelled by foot. Since it took a long time, they had rest houses. They had the rest houses every few kilometres. The travellers could cook; camp and they could feed their travelling animals as well. On the size of the roads that was the size of the rest house. If there were small roads there were small rest houses.

Among the many roads and trails constructed in pre-Columbian South America, the Inca road system of Peru was the most extensive. Traversing the Andes Mountains and reaching heights of over 5,000 m (16,500 feet) above sea level, the trails connected the regions of the Inca Empire from the northern provincial capital in Quito, Ecuador past the modern city of Santiago, Chile in the south. The Inca road system covered approximately 22,530 km (14,000 mi) and provided access to over three million km² of territory.

Because the Incas did not make use of the wheel for transportation, and did not have horses until the arrival of the Spanish in Peru in the 16th century, the trails were used almost exclusively by people walking, sometimes accompanied by pack animals, usually the llama.

The trails were used by the Inca people as a means of relaying messages, carried via knotted-cord quipu, books, and by memory; and for transporting goods. Messages could be carried by chasqui runners covering as much as 242 km (150 miles) per day, working in relay fashion much like the Pony Express of the 1860s in North America.

There were approximately 2,000 inns, or tambos, placed at even intervals along the trails. The inns provided food, shelter and military supplies to the tens of thousands who travelled the roads in this organized and civilized empire. There were corrals for llamas and stored provisions such as corn, lima beans, dried potatoes, and llama jerky. Along the roads, local villagers would plant fruit trees that were watered by irrigation ditches. This enabled chasqui runners and other travellers to be refreshed while on their journeys. Inca rope bridges provided access across valleys. They also built tunnels to go up hill.

Many of the trails converge on the centre of the empire, the Inca capital city of Cusco. It was therefore easy for the Spanish conquistadors to locate the city. Traversing the trails on horseback proved to be difficult and treacherous for the Spanish in their attempts to conquer the Inca Empire.

The Inca Trail:

It is considered one of the most beautiful and spectacular trekking route in the world, the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu every year attracts thousands of travellers searching for that spectacular and special contact with history and nature.

The mysteries of the Inca citadel communicate with Cusco and the rest of the Inca Empire through a network of roads. These roads made to measures of man, were built in a perfect harmony with their natural surroundings.

The Pre-Spanish road network was a course for admiration to the first Europeans that travelled through the old Inca Empire.

The lost city of Machu Picchu is without doubt the most amazing and recognisable symbol of the Inca civilisation for all international visitors.

The “Inca Trail” as it is known, was the Royal Highway that led pilgrims and officials of the empire to the Sacred City of the Incas.

Hiking the Inca Trail is highly rewarding. It is one of the best in the world due to its exquisite natural beauty and unforgettable views offering a wide variety of ecological areas, from deserts to tropical Andean cloud forest.

On the Inca trail, there are over 250 known species of orchids, and in different eco-systems, numerous rare birds, animals and reptiles including several species considered to be in danger of extinction.

Walking the Inca Trail gives opportunity to visit overgrown Inca buildings undiscovered by the Spanish Empire. It is truly a fascinating and unforgettable experience.

Witnessing and experiencing all this wonder makes the traveller to marvel at the intellectual and spiritual grandeur of the Andean man, whose highest achievement was the Inca civilisation.

Since this year, access on the trail is strictly regimented, walkers must have a guide or porter and book at least 30 days in advance, first come first serve. Before walkers were camping anywhere and caused damages to the site. Only 500 people including porters are permitted on the trail at any one time (300 of them are porters).

Day 16: Saturday 17 September 2005

Day 1 on the Inca Trail

Still at Ollantaytambo, the big day as arrived!

We had to wake up at 05.00 for a 05.30 pick up. After a quick breakfast we climbed on board of a little mini-bus where we saw our porters and Mario. The bus drove on dirt roads through small villages along the Sacred Valley.

After about 40 minutes, we arrived at km 82, the starting point of the trail. We were 45 km away from Machu Picchu. As soon as the bus stop, the porters were out organising their loads, they were all wearing the traditional costume, a brightly red poncho and a beige hat. They are in charge of carrying on their back all the needs of a modern man venturing out on the Inca Trail: tents, tables, chairs, equipment, lots of food and water…

I will find out later that they walk really fast and carrying their very thin body, a great pair of lungs and never ending energy. We were promised that they get paid the legal wage (43 soles per day which is about £10.00). Some trek companies might often offer cheaper tours but will cut corners and that start on the porter’s wages. Their weight is limited to 20 kg and there are checkpoints to enforce this. However I suspect some porters managed to carry a lot more willingly or not this is another story. While waiting for things to get ready, we had a group photo, we got ready ourselves by having a loo break as well, because later it would become more difficult.

We started to make our way to the check point where our passport were checked and stamped; we were also given a ticket to enter the site.

Now, officially, we are on the Inca Trail. We were at Cusichaca. We crossed a hanging bridge on the Vilcanota River. The walk continues through eucalyptus forest, the peace of the walk was slowly settling, we knew who will be always at the front and the ones at the back.

We reach Llactapata (also known as Pattalacta) archaeological site situated on the side of the hill. Llactapata means “village on the highlands”. We were at km 88. It is an archaeological site situated at the foot of the mountain on the left bank of the Cushichaca River, a tributary of the Urubamba River. It has cultivation terraces that probably served to feed people from other places. Its urban sector holds more than one hundred dwellings.

The weather was really nice. We passed through a small village, and I saw some really… really cute little piglets, they were absolutely adorable!

We also saw some flowers called “Spanish Broom”, they are yellow. They are originally from North Africa; the Spaniard brought them to South America with them. Local Indians thinks that this plant will ward off evil; the plant is often kept at home.

Later we saw a Puma carved in a rock.

Lunch was great, much better than expected! Just after lunchtime, Sam’s shoe fell apart, we fixed it with my spare shoe lace, and it was very hilarious! It was only day 1, 4 hours into the trek, and things started to go bad!

We spotted the majestic peak of Salkantag in the distance; Dianne was starting to struggle already.

On the way we tasted the Chicha, a kind of fermented drink made of Maize (Jora) or Manioc root (yuca). It had a straw yellowish colour with a milky appearance, it tasted sour and then like cider. Ruben laugh as Ben said Chucha which is a rude word!

We reached the campsite of Huayllabamba (3,000m), the first impressions were good, I was feeling a little bit tired. Antonio, our waiter welcomed us with a drink. The dinner was fabulous!

We stated to get ready for the night when Ben came out of the toilets screaming, he saw a huge tarantula in the men’s loo, which was really disgusting. It was huge!

I was very excited to camp. In the evening, I saw the “Star of the Andes”, a type of humming bird, I was really happy!

Today we walked 12 km.

Day 16: Sunday 18 September 2005

Day 2 on the Inca Trail.

We had a fantastic breakfast at Huayllabamba, it was really yummy!

Day 2 of the trail is the most difficult part of the trek as we have to climb to Huarmihuañusca or “Dead Woman Pass” at an altitude of 4,200m.

We set off; racing ahead was the 2 Rogers, John, Graham followed by myself. Ruben one of guide was leading but we soon overtook him.

It is a hard and tedious ascension on a pronounced vertical slope, very steep! Along the climb, the ecology is changing, from walking through the woods, then a mild valley, we reached the tree less pastures in the cold high parts.

We crossed two “flat” parts with streams. At one stage after struggling, we thought we reached the pass, but it was a false alert, we still had to carry on! It was only the camping site of Llulluchapampa. We stopped here for a rest, and also to enjoy the stunning views, we also took the opportunity to refuel on energy bars and have a drink.

It was harder to keep up with the guys, they were impressed that I managed to keep up with them so far, but now they were too quick for me, little Roger kept waiting for me, he was a nice bloke. He was not interested in the “I arrived first” race.

We started to walk much slower because of the altitude, taking little breaks all the time. There was no sign of the others below, not even Ruben one of the leaders. Mario was at the far end with Diane who was very far from us.

Finally we saw the top, her I am at Huarmihuañusca, the “Dead Woman Pass”, and I understand the name now! The altitude is of 4,200m. I was very relieved to have reached it.

Since we left the campsite this morning, it took me 3 hours and 45 minutes, excellent time, the guys were really impressed! I was really proud! Most people need 5 to 6 hours to do it! It was very cold on the top.

The view is really amazing, the clouds were starting to gather round the mountain, within minutes, the mountain disappeared behind the clouds, and you could hardly see anything. I was glad I arrived here early!

30 minutes later, Ben, Paul, Kevin, and Sam arrived, to celebrate Ben and Kev, stood naked in boxer shorts in front of the sign, it was very funny as all the girls were queuing up to take photos.

Ruben arrived as well and probably took us for a bunch of nutters, he was surprised by my timing and said that I was very fit. I felt really happy by the compliment. We are still waiting for the others to arrive.

The weather was starting to turn really bad, as I was not moving, I was starting to get colder, and it was already 2 hours I was on the top. I wanted to go down as I was fed up waiting in the cold. The view now was non-existent. I enjoyed my 2 hours break up there, still a few people missing!

Ruben told us where to go to arrive at our campsite, so little Roger, Graham and myself started to walk down.

The way down was very steep through the Inca steps. Behind me I heard “porter”, so I walked on the side and I saw a porter overtaking me at great speed with a huge load on his back. I wonder how they do it, how they get their energy from.

The landscape was very amazing; I could see the trail on the other side of the mountain; that will be for us tomorrow.

I reach the campsite of Pacamayo (3,600m) at 13.30, tired but happy and proud! Antonio welcomed us with a large drink and a massive lunch. Bless them these guys are so great..! These descendents of the Incas now bears the burden of tourism and work as porters with very low pay some agencies will treat them well but some corrupted ones will let them with hunger and in the cold. At least they have jobs most of year. It is difficult not to feel guilty and let someone else carry your big pack for you at least with my money the porter can feed his family as he has got a job.

There were only 2 tents up, so I just grab the first one I saw, I decided to go for a quick nap in the afternoon.

Diane was the last one; she reached the camp at 17.30, just before nightfall. Poor her! But you she is not 20 anymore and still fit for her age.

At 4 pm we had some Pop Corns and pancakes with jam, it was lovely, and well appreciated!

Then after we had a nice dinner, my god I am spending my life eating here!

In the evening we had a sleeping bag party in the dinning tent, the aim of the game was playing cards in your sleeping bag; that was very funny!

The night was freezing cold!

We walked 12 km today.

Day 17: Monday 19 September 2005

Day 3 on the Inca Trail

After a freezing cold night, a porter wakes me up with a bucket of warm water, that very nice as I did not want to walk to the bathrooms straight away.

The porters looked very tired, like zombies, dead man walking. I felt a bit sorry for them; they were all smiling, always!

Day 3 is considered the longest part of the trail as well as being the nicest part as well, they say it is unforgettable. Although the differences in high are not great, it will be a long hike.

After breakfast, we took photos of the porters. We started to set off. The trail climbed up.

We started to climb up the stairs, after an hour, we reached the ruins of Runkuracay at 3,800m. The ruins are in a circle shape with a single entrance way with seven door-holes off to seven different rooms. The semi circular shape allows for shelter from strong winds of this area. It is though that is was a tambo, or resting place for couriers on the Inca trail.

I managed to drop my water bottle Mario had to climb down the wall to retrieve it, poor thing!

We continued to climb up, and then we reached the second pass Abra de Runkuracay at 3,950m.

As we started to descend we saw Yanacocho, or black lake. The trail was now very narrow; we were walking on the original stone roadway built by the Incas.

Then we reached the ruins of Sayacmarca, the name means inaccessible town, it was an interesting Inca ruin on a top of a steep mountain offering panoramic views over the Acobomba valley. The ruins are in shape of a maze of very narrow streets often ending in dead ends. The only way to access these buildings was through a steep but solid staircase of stone on the cliff side. A rope was here to you climb over it, I spotted an orchid.

There was also a stone aqueduct that uses to carry water to the site.

We saw also the ruins on Conchamarca, which we will pass later on.

Here the trail started go through the cloud forest we saw really nice orchids, begonias other flowers and trees, it was amazing to such a variety.

I reached the campsite of Chakicocha were a little rest and a loo break was welcomed.

We passed through the first tunnel carved into the rock, it was about 10 meters long, and it was very impressive. It was large enough to pass animals and men.

After a while, I finally reached the third pass at 3,670 metres, I saw really nice view of the Salkantay peak, and other mountains as well. Antonio welcomed me smiling as always with a drink. I rested while waiting for the rest of the group to arrive, after we were all sharing our experience of that morning walk. It was a beautiful day!

We continue on our way, shortly after lunch, we saw the ruins of Phuyupactamarca; it was the most impressive ruins so far. It means the village above the clouds. It is undoubtedly one of the most original citadels along the Inca trail. It is surrounded by the cloud forest; there were also lots of cultivation terraces.

The trail was only steps coming down, hundreds of them, it seems endless! My knees were starting to feel the strain! We are deep in the cloud forest.

Later on, we reached the second tunnel which was about 20 metres long. We kept going, after walking on a flat part in the forest, we reached the ruins of Wiñay Wayna, which means “forever young”. It was named after a kind of orchid growing up here.

There was a small shop selling stuff; I bought a beer, nicely deserved before reaching our last camp site at Wiñay Wayna.

In the evening we had a thank you party with the porters, to give them their tips, and some clothes. The porters looked really tired; they were really friendly, always smiling at you!

We walked 16 km.

Day 18: Tuesday 20 October 2005

Day 4 on the Inca trail… Arriving at the Machu Picchu!

The Incas always built their fortress from which they could see without being seen, from where they could attack but not be attacked.

The mysterious citadel Machu Picchu, is hidden away on a mountain top on the edge of the cloud forest region was thus a very difficult place to find.

After eating 3 pancakes for breakfast, we set off very early to be among the first one at the Sun Gate or Intipunku. At 04.00 am we were starting queuing at the gates of the campsite.

I had an argument with a guy who wanted to jump the queue, he was a guide (but did not tell me that until much later) who later complained to Mario, he said to him “oh, my god she really knows how to fight for her corner!” It was funny after a while!

After waiting for a long time, the sun was well up by now! The gates finally open, it was 05.00.

I had to trot to keep up with Ruben, below the trail, I could see the Urubamba River with green slopes. There were a lot of different species of plants and flowers. The sky was very nice with a pink colour above the mountains; I stopped to take a photo.

After trekking for 1h 1/2 we finally reached we huge 50 Inca steps, almost vertical. It was very steep! We reached the final pass: Intipunku, suddenly Machu Picchu appears out on the over side of the mountain, spread out to its glory. It was a great place to contemplate the majestic grandeur of Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas.

While relaxing I enjoyed the views, it was really amazing, I ate my chestnut puree which I saved for this occasion.

After our rest, we walk for another hour on an easy trail, to enter the Sanctuary of Machu Picchu.

I have survived the Inca Trail, about 45 km

There were not many people on the site; we took a few group photos before starting our visit. I was so happy to be there!

The Sanctuary of Machu Picchu:

Machu Picchu or in Quecha “old mountain”, is sometimes called the “Lost City of the Incas” is a well preserved pre-Colombian Inca ruin located on a high mountain ridge.

Machu Picchu stands at 2,350m high and is located about 70 km Northwest of Cusco.

Forgotten for centuries by the outside world, but not by the locals, it was brought back to international attention by archaeologist Hiran Bingham who re-discovered it in 1911.

History:

Machu Picchu is probably the most familiar symbol of the Inca Empire. Since 1983 the site has been designated as an UNESCO World Heritage Site, and has been the subject of concern about damage caused by tourism.

It is thought that the city was built by Sapa Inca Pachacuti, starting about 1140, and was inhabited until the Spanish conquest of Peru in 1532.

Archaeological evidence shows that Machu Picchu was not a conventional city, but a country retreat town for Inca nobility.

The site has a large palace and temples to Inca deities around the courtyard, with other buildings for support staff.

It is estimated than a maximum of only 750 people resided in Machu Picchu at only one time, and probably a small fraction of that number lived in town during the rainy season.

It is though that the site was chosen for its unique location and geological features.

It is said that the silhouette of the mountain range behind Machu Picchu represent the face of the Inca looking upwards towards the sky, with the largest peak (Huaynay Picchu) representing his nose.

One of the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda best known works is “The heights of Machu Picchu” he said “Machu Picchu is a trip to the serenity of the soul to eternal fusion with the cosmos; there we feel our own fragility. It is one of the greatest marvels of South America. A resting place for butterflies at the epicentre of the great circle of life, another miracle.”

The Location:

It is one of the most important archaeological centres in South America and as a consequence the most visited tourist attraction in Peru. From the top, at the cliff of Machu Picchu, one can appreciate the vertical precipice of 600 meters ending at the foot of the Urubamba River. The location of the city was a military secret its deep precipices and mountains were an excellent natural defence.

Machu Picchu Sanctuary:

In 1981, an area of 325.92 km square was declared a “World Cultural and Natural Heritage Site”. This area, which is not only limited to the ruins themselves, also includes the regional landscape with its flora and fauna, highlighting the abundance of orchids.

The firmest theories maintain that the site was an Inca “llacta”, a settlement built up to control the economy of the conquered regions. It was the most beautiful “llacta” of the Inca Empire and would have been built with the specific purpose of protecting the most select of the Incan aristocracy in the event of an attack.

It seems that it used in a particular moment as a “Zapa”, Inca’s nesting place and also as an observatory.

After the Spanish conquest it was the stronghold of Manca Capac Inca’s revolt.

The Sanctuary is divided into three sectors:

- In the Sacred District are the primary archaeological treasures: the Intihuatana or “hitching post of the sun” it is where the Incas had their important ritual centres.

Intihuatana’s base is said to have been covered in the shape of the Inca Empire. Its main purpose was an astro-agricultural clock for viewing the complex interrelationships between the movement of the stars and constellations.

It is also thought by some to be a symbolic representation of the spirit of the mountain on which Machu Picchu was built.

The Intihuatana appears to be aligned with four important mountains: the snow capped mountain range of La Veronica lies directly to the East, with the sun rising behind its main summit during the equinoxes. Directly South, though not actually visible from here sits the father of all mountains in this part of Peru: Salkantay. To the West the sun sets behind the important peak of Pumasillo during the December solstices and due North stands the majestic peak of Huayna Picchu.

The Temple of the Sun, also known as the Torreon, is a wonderful semi circular, walled, tower like temple displaying some of Machu Picchu’s finest stonework. A window of this temple provides views of both the June solstice sunrise and the constellation of the Pleiades, which rise over Huayna Picchu. The Pleiades constellation relates to the agricultural calendar, giving them the information about when to plant the crops, and when the rain will come.

The room of the three windows, is where ceremonies were held, the windows look east beyond the Urubamba river.

All these temples were dedicated to Inti, the Sun God, and the greatest Inca deity.

- The Royalty Sector was for the nobility, a group of houses in rows over a slope. The residence of the Amautaras (wise person) was characterised by its reddish walls, and the zone of the Nustas (princess) had trapezoid shape rooms.

Inside the citadel, there once was the Popular District for prisoners with a jail and servants.

The agricultural terracing and aqueducts take advantage of the natural slopes; the lower areas contain buildings occupied by farmers and teachers.

The Architecture:

All of the construction in Machu Picchu uses the classic Inca architectural of polished dry-stone walls of a regular shape. The Incas were masters of this technique, called ashlar, in which block of stones are cut to fit together tightly without mortar.

Many junctions are so perfect that not even a knife fits between the stones.

The Inca never used the wheel in any practical manner. How they moved and placed enormous blocks of stone is a mystery, although the general belief is that they used hundreds of men to push the stones up incline planes. No written document was found to give us any explanations.

There are about 200 buildings, including temples, sanctuaries and residences. There are more than one hundred flights of stone steps often completely carved in a single block of granite, and a great number of water fountains interconnected by channels and water-drainage perforated in the rock, designed for the original irrigation system.

Another unique thing about Machu Picchu is the integration of the architecture into the landscape.

The houses had steep thatched roofs and trapezoidal doors, windows were very unusual. Some of the houses were two stories tall. The second storey was probably reached by a ladder, which likely was made of rope since there were not many trees at Machu Picchu’s altitude. The houses in groups of ten gathered around a communal courtyard, or aligned on narrow terraces and were connected by small alleys. At the centre were large opened square; livestock enclosures and terraces for growing maize stretched around the city.

The Incas planted crops such as potatoes and maize at Machu Picchu. To get the highest yield possible, they used advanced terracing and irrigation methods to reduce erosion and increase the area available for cultivation. However, it probably did not produce a large enough surplus to export agricultural products to Cusco, the Inca capital.

An epidemic of smallpox arrived in 1527, and killed 50% of the population by the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors; Machu Picchu was already “forgotten”.

The visit of Machu Picchu was ending, now it was our free time!

I was really happy to have seen Machu Picchu this morning, as it was quiet I was able to take photos with not too many people on it. I went to the bathroom; I was thrilled to find sit down toilets again. Some of the group decided to climb Huayma Picchu, but I wanted to see more of the ruins so I did not join them.

I was trying to imagine what it was like living here during the Inca period.

About 10.30 when the first train from Cusco began to arrive the site was really busy, it was amazing how crowded it was getting!

At the end I learned that David and Pam could not join us as David had a problem with his peacemaker in Cusco, but was now recovering in the hotel in Cusco, it gave us a big scare! The site was now very crowded.

I felt privileged to have seen this marvel, I was very impressed.

I left the Machu Picchu Sanctuary site with regret at 13.30; I took the bus down to Agua Callientes. I found the others in a restaurant where I had a good chat with Mario the tour guide, he told me that I have done really well on the Inca trail, and I felt good. Then we talked about how expensive life was in London.

After our nice lunch we made our way to the Railway station with all of our gear, I took the opportunity to ask if I could see the driving cab, they said yes! They were as very surprised as I was delighted!

The train ride was very lovely along the Urubamba River, during the set, the mountain looked like being on fire, and the views were stunning!

In the hotel I was glad to be able to take a shower with warm water and the bad news were that we had to leave very early because of the strikes in Cusco, and the city will have blockages on the roads.

Day 19: Wednesday 21 September 2005

For breakfast, I was still drinking my usual cup of Coca tea, I got addicted to it! It supposed to open your breathing passages and reduce the risk of altitude sickness, most of the locals chew coca leafs as well. It mainly provides a source of energy like coffee. When it is a tea bag, the cocaine is removed. The tea is also good for digestion. The tea is also called Matte De Coca. It includes also cocaine in a small amount 0.001%. In order to make 1 kg of cocaine 1,000 kg of leafs are needed.

We had to leave Ollantaytambo at 03.30am!!!! Because of the strikes in Cusco, we had to be in the city very early. The locals were complaining about the price of the petrol, it is about £2.50/litre. It is really expensive. Locals were throwing stones at every moving vehicle! So that’s why we had to enter the city centre early to avoid all this. After waiting in the hotel lobby, I had my room about 10.00.

Today was our free day in the city; I have done a few bits and bobs and went shopping, then with little Roger and Malcolm we went to the Inca site of Koricancha as well as the Santo Domingo and the Temple.

Koricancha, the Inca Temple of the Sun:

Koricancha, also spell Qoricancha and Santo Domingo together form perhaps the most vivid illustration in Cusco of Andean culture’s collision with Western Europe.

Like the Great Mosque in Cordoba (Spain) where Christians dared to build a massive church within the perfect Muslim shrine, the Temple of the Sun was the most sumptuous temple in the Inca Empire and the apogee of the Inca naturalistic belief system.

Some 4,000 of highest ranking priests and their attendants were housed here. Dedicated to worship the sun, it was apparently a glittering palace strait of the El Dorado’s Legend:

Koricancha means “golden Courtyard” in Quecha, and in addition to hundreds of gold panels lining its walls. There were life-size figures, solid gold altars, and a huge golden Sun-disc.

The sun-disc reflected the sun and bathed the temple in light.

During the summer solstice, the sun-still shines directly into a niche where only the Inca chieftain was permitted to sit.

Other temples and shrines existed for the worship of lesser natural gods: the moon, Venus, Thunder, Lightning and Rainbows.

Koricancha was the main astronomical observatory for the Incas.

After the Spaniards ransacked the temple and emptied it of gold (which they melted down) the exquisite polished stone walls were employed as the foundations of Santo Domingo, constructed in the 17th century.

The baroque church shows the fine stone masonry of the Incas. Today all that remain is Inca stonework. Thankfully, a large section of the cloister has been removes, revealing four original chambers of the temple, a great example of the Inca trapezoidal architecture.

As I stood on the small platform in the first chamber, I could see the perfect symmetry of the opening in the stone chambers.

A series of the Inca stones displayed reveals the fascinating concept of male and female blocks, and how they fit together. The 6 meters curved wall beneath the west end of the church is visible from the street. It remains undamaged by the repeated earthquakes; it is the greatest example of Inca stonework.

Early evening, I went to see the church of Santo Christobal uphill behind my hotel, there was a lovely view over Cusco and the main Plaza. I climb the bell tower, the views were even better! I noticed this church on the way to Sacsayhuaman. I don’t regret to have come here. Here; use to stand the old palace of Manco Capac.

In the evening I went to the French Crêperie with Pam and David.

Day 20: Thursday 22 September 2005

Still in Cusco, the trip was drawing away to an end for some, in two days time they will be leaving Lima back home.

Most of the group went on river-rafting, as I did not fancy it, I stayed in Cusco.

I went back to San Blast district, there was a group playing Andean Music, it was lovely, as other groups came to show their talent as well. The local TV was here and filmed me; I will be on Peruvian TV!!

I stayed on the Plaza enjoying the music. Later I went back to the centre, and made my way to the archbishop Palace.

The Palacio Arzobispal, or the Museum of Religious Art;

It was built on the site of the Palace of Inca Roca in 1400. Then it became the residence of the Archbishop of Cusco. It now contains the Museo De Arte Relioso. It has a collection of colonial paintings and furniture. This colonial palace also features Moorish style doors and a superb balcony.

After walking in the city for one last time, I came back to the hotel where I saw the other coming back as well completely soaked! They were really happy to have done their river rafting trip.

In the evening, we went out for a meal together in a nice restaurant in Cusco, it was really lovely, we had a nice evening remembering and sharing our feelings about the trip.

Later we went in a bar where everybody got really drunk; Sam was really flirting with Rob!

I went back to the hotel at 03.30, Jose walked me back.

Day 21: Friday 23 September 2005

As I entered the lobby of the hotel to have breakfast, I saw Sam room-mate outside talking to them; she slept in the boy’s room as she was unable to get into her bedroom last night. Shortly after I saw Rob coming out of Sam’s bedroom, I could not believe they slept together! Rob is a married man by the way!!! Sam has been after Rob for the all trip, but I would have thought that Rob as the tour leader will not get involved! (I wonder what she thinks if she is reading this right now!!! ?????)

We left the hotel to drive to the airport to leave for Lima. I said my goodbyes to Jose who will stay in Lima with “Ze Truck”. We checked in together and waited in the departure lounge.

It was weird to have said good bye to Jose, for the others the trip was ending, I had still my jungle extension to do with 7 others.

We left Cusco over an hour late, I loaded my face with Pizza’s on the plane, after mine, I was still hungry when I saw that tall Roger did want his, I asked if I could have it, which I did, later I dare asking the hostess for another one, she brings two, I ate both of them. What was wrong with me? I could not stop eating! On the plane they show a video of “Just for Laughs” like Candid Camera, which was very funny!

We landed safely (well if we didn’t, I would not have been able to write this long blog!!!) and went back to the same hotel as the first time. Rob’s wife and daughter were here waiting for him, I wonder if she suspect what happened last night!???

I also discovered that Exodus booked be on the wrong date for the flight back, I had to come back a day early, (why not a day later??) I was very upset. As I had especially mentioned to them and said everything was correct. But it was wrong…

I also saw that I had a suite with a JACUZZI!!!!!!!!!

We spend the afternoon hanging around. I said my goodbye to the ones leaving back home the following day.

In the evening I went to have dinner with Malcolm, and little Roger, the most embarrassing moment is when I managed to lose my hotel key. Thanks god someone took it back!

In the evening I took a long bath in the Jacuzzi.

Day 22: Saturday 24 September 2005

We left the hotel at 03.30am, my god it is like back at work on my early shifts at Eurostar! We had to take a plane to Iquitos. I tried to contact Exodus at the airport to see if they could do anything about my plane ticket. At the end my phone card runs out and my plane was boarding.

As we were approaching our destination we flew over the Amazon River; the sun was reflecting on the river, it was really amazing, it looked like a Golden Snake, and it was so beautiful! You could almost believe it was pure gold in the river. May be that’s why it was called “the cities of Gold”, because the sun was reflecting and shining on the stones.

When we arrived in Iquitos airport, we were stroke by the heat, but also by the music and dancers, it was a very warm welcome and it made me feel great! We met our local tour leader called Nasser. We went on a walking tour of the city.

Iquitos is the largest city in the rainforest of Peru. It is the capital of the Loreto Region. Located on the Amazon River, it is just 106 meters above sea level and it is 3,000 km away from the mouth of the Amazon basin.

The city is generally considered the largest in the world that cannot be reached by road, only by boat or by plane. Most travel within the city itself is via bus, motorcycle or mototaxi (auto-rickshaw). Transportation to nearby towns often requires a river trip via a llevo-llevo which is a small public boat.

The climate is hot and humid with a humidity of 85%; the river is at its lowest in October.

History:

Iquitos was established as a Jesuit Mission in the 1750’s and in 1864 it started to grow when Iquitos became the capital of the region. Iquitos was known for its rubber, and there are still great mansions from the 1800’s. The boom came to an end when rubber seeds were smuggled out of the country and planted elsewhere.

The economy:

Iquitos has become important in the shipment of lumber from the Amazon rainforest to the outside world and it offers modern amenities for the residents and tourists in the area. Other industries include oil and rum production.

Iquitos has a growing reputation as a tourist community, especially as a jumping off point for tours of the Amazon jungle. Iquitos is considered to be one of the safest cities in the world with violent crime almost unheard off.

During our tour of the city, we saw “Casa Fierro” or Iron House, an early kit house made entirely of iron and designed by Gustave Eiffel; it was shipped all the way from Paris to Iquitos. This and other houses were built by the rubber barons’ line the sides of the main square of Iquitos to this day.

There was a military parade as well in the town, we were sweating like pigs, and the locals were making fun of us!

We stopped at a pier overlooking the Amazon River; it was built for the rubber ships. The river was really low.

We made our way back to the office to pick up our bags that we left here earlier and we went back to the harbour where we boarded a small motor boat to go to our lodge.

It was good fun to ride on the Amazon, the mighty Amazon River! At one point we change the boat to take a smaller one, with no shade cover, the sun was boiling! Then we finally arrive at our lodge.

The lodge looked really lovely in the forest, lots of birds are singing.

In the afternoon we had a quick jungle tour where I saw poisonous trees with spikes, palm trees…

After dinner we went on a night tour on the river, our driver caught a small caiman, it was so great to see this animal so close and be able to touch it as well. It was a really an amazing experience. However his was a wild animal… and should have been left alone but it was still interesting to able to observe it.

I went to bed, I could not wait for the following day; my first night in the jungle!

Day 23: Sunday 25 September 2005

Today we are setting off for a long jungle walk! We took the boats up the river for about half an hour, and then we started our walk.

The woods were thick; we saw a big insect with a long white fluffy tail, birds and also monkeys.

I was starting to get hungry, it was so hot, and my water bottle was more than half gone. Suddenly Nasser stopped and fiddles with a tree, and pulled a huge tarantula out of the tree, it was disgusting! We saw lots of tiny little babies, they had shiny silver legs. I don’t know why, but I found them cute.

We stopped for lunch; we had boiled eggs and tuna fish with an apple for desert.

The forest was really amazing, the noises were very strange as well. It was a world apart! Then we made our way back, we saw a snake, Nasser the guide nearly walked on it.

The Amazon rainforest:

The Amazon rainforest is a moist broadleaf forest in the Amazon Basin, the forest itself occupies some 5.5 million km², located within 8 nations: Brazil with 60%, Colombia, Peru, Venezuela, Ecuador, Guyana and Suriname as well as the French Department of Guyana.

This forest represents over half of the planet’s remaining rainforest.

Amazonian rainforest comprises the largest and most species rich tract of tropical rainforest in the world.

The name Amazon arises from a battle which Francisco De Orellana had with a tribe of Tapuyas where the women of the tribe thought alongside the men, as was the custom among this entire tribe. Orellana derived the name Amazonas from the ancient Amazons of the Asia and Africa described in Greek legends.

Wet tropical forests are the most species rich biome, and tropical forests in the Americas are constantly more species rich than the wet forest in Africa and Asia. As the largest tropical rainforest in the Americas, the Amazonian rainforests have unparalleled biodiversity.

The region is home to about 2.5 million insect species, tens of thousands of plants, and 2,000 birds and mammals.

The diversity of plants species is the highest on earth with some experts estimating that one square kilometre may contains 75,000 types of trees and 150,000 species of higher plants. This constitutes the largest collection of living plants and animal species on the planet. One in five birds in the world lives in the Amazon rainforest.

I was starting to get exhausted by the heat of the jungle. My water had run out, thanks god the boats were in sight!

When we were back at the lodge, I took a swim in the Ucayali river, some tourist from North America that were staying here looked at me with a disgusted look, but it was so cool. I have heard one lady saying, oh this water is disgusting. Well what do you think the water comes from when she showers in the morning??? The river you Tw…!!!!!!

At dinner we saw a lady on her own, she wanted to join us to be alone, we agree, she was a rep for Latin America Journeys and was inspecting lodges for further trips, she asked us what we thought of Peru. Their trips are really expensive, when we saw they were charging £230 for a 3 nights excursion on Lake Titicaca including one night home stay on Amantani, we told her what we thought, we also told her that locals only get $6 per person per night. So why are they charging so much? No excuses…! Therefore I am going to boycott this agency.

In the evening, I enjoyed looking at the clear sky, there were thousands of stars. It was really beautiful.

In the evening about 21.00, I was lying in my hammock listening to the birds singing, it went suddenly silent, very quiet, then suddenly the bungalow started to shake violently, it was an earthquake, it was so scary. All the stuff I putt on the table fell over; at the same time from our dining room I could hear broken glass and plates.

We later learn that it was a magnitude of 7.5, it happened in Mogybamba in the jungle further north, not far from where we were. It was reported that 4 people lost their life. It was really surprising. The feeling is indescribable, my first earthquake! I rush back to the common room to check everybody was Ok. Most of the glasses were broken as well as the plates, but everybody was fine.

I will always remember the birds going silent, as if they knew before it happened.

Day 24: Monday 26 September 2005

We had an early morning boat ride; we saw lots of birds, even vultures, king-fishers, herons. The wildlife is so rich it was really amazing! The King-fisher was really cute!

After lunch; it was more exciting, we took the boat out of the small river and made our way on the Amazon River. So… to do what????

For a SWIM of course!!!!!!!

We stopped the boat on the mighty Amazon, I was the first to get out of the boat, and the water looked really mucky!

I was about to dive when I was told not to do that, effectively, the water level was so low that in some parts it reach barely below my knees. We raced against each others; I even took the opportunity to have a mud bath, very good for the skin according to the locals! We had good fun.

I could not believe that I swam in the Amazon River, the water was disgusting!

It was so amazing, how many people could say that they have they have swim in the waters of the Amazon? Not that many (apart from the locals of course!) It was in fact a fantastic experience, I was really happy; the best was on our way back when we spotted 2 Pink Dolphins, the stars of the Amazon River, we were very lucky!

The Amazon River:

The Amazon is the most voluminous river on earth. Accordingly it is sometimes known as the River Sea. The Amazon is also generally regarded by most geographic authorities as being the second longest river on earth with its 6,200 km (the longest being the Nile).

The drainage area of the Amazon in Brazil, called the Amazon Basin is the largest of any river system. If the basin was an independent country, it would be the world’s seventh largest, having more than twice the area of India (which actually ranks seventh).

The quantity of fresh water released by the Amazon to the Atlantic Ocean is enormous: up to 300,000 m³ per second in the rainy season.

Indeed the Amazon is responsible for a fifth of the total volume of fresh water entering the Ocean worldwide.

The main river is navigable for large Ocean steamers to Manaus 1,500 km up the river mouth. Smaller ocean vessels of 3,000 tons can reach as far as Iquitos at 3,600 km from the sea.

Originating from the snow crested Andes high above Lake Lauricocha in Central Peru, the headstream of the Maranon river rises in the glaciers in what is known as the Nevado de Yarupa. Rushing through waterfalls and gorges in an area of high jungle called the pongos, the Maranon river eventually combines with the Ucalyali River, just before the provincial town of Nauta to form the mighty Amazon. The most distant source of the Amazon river has only been recently established as a glacial stream on a snow capped peak called Nevado Mismi, roughly 160 km West of Lake Titicaca and 700 km South East of Lima.

The average depth of the river is 40 metres in the height in the rainy season, and the width can be 25 miles. Its starts to raise in November an increases volume until June, the falls until the end of October.

Wildlife of the Amazon:

The river is one of the main habitats of the Amazon River Dolphin, the pink dolphin. It is the largest species of the river dolphin it can grow to lengths up to 2.6m. Also present in large numbers are the notorious Piranhas, a carnivorous fish which congregate in large bunch, and many attack livestock, even humans. However only a few species will attack humans, they are mainly fish eaters. The Anaconda snake is found in shallow waters of the Amazon Basin, it is one of the largest snakes, and the Anaconda spends much of its time in the water. The river also supports thousands of species of fish as well as crabs and turtles.

In late afternoon, we paid a visit to the village of San Jose next to our lodge. The houses were just made of wood, with no walls or entrance door, it was open. The population has got nothing worth to steal, and theft is inexistent. They live by trading their stuff: “I give you a fish, you give me a T-shirt” kind of thing. They were selling souvenirs, I bought myself a sarbacanne and a necklace made with seeds. One woman has a Sleuth, I never saw one before, and it had such long nails! They are very strange animals, their face is so funny! I also saw a funny long tail animal which I forgot the name, but was very friendly; I played with it for a while.

In the centre of the village we watch the local men playing football, we were offered a Yucca snaps, my god it was so strong! You will get drunk quickly with that! Boys join the football match. Later I was invited in the women’s team, Jesus! I was hopeless! I was not really sure who was in what team or even less whom was in my team?? It was good fun, their lifestyle is so different! It was truly a learning experience to see how these people live, miles away from everything, nothing seems to bother them. They looked happy!

I went back to the lodge for my last night in the Amazon.

Day 25: Tuesday 27 September 2005

It was my last day in the Amazon, we took the boat and went fishing, and the sun was striking hot! We caught some small fish and a few Piranhas as well as a cat fish. We took out treasure back to the kitchen where we will what we caught for lunch. The Piranhas tasted very bitter and there was not that much of it to eat as well. I enjoyed my stay here, after lunch it was time to go at 13.30, I wish I could stay it was amazing!

I could not hold my tears! I rode on the boat with a local woman and a chicken that they forgot to off load, I crying, but this made me smile. We arrived at Iquitos were I had time to explore the city before going to the airport. I went to the area of Belen; I could access it on foot, as it was the dry season. The homes during the high season are floating on the water.

I made my way to the airport by one of the motorcycle rickshaw, I wanted to take more cash, but the machine did not give me my cash (I will later discover that the bank charged me, I eventually got a refund later).

I arrived in Lima in the evening; I booked my taxi for the following day as well. I was leaving Peru the following day. My trip to Peru was already over.

Day 26: Wednesday 28 September 2005

I went to the local market where I bought coca leaves and a few fruits. I also got my “shoe-shine?” by a local boy. In the afternoon I made my way back to the airport. I nearly miss my connection in Madrid; I had to run like mad. Gary was waiting for me at the airport.

CONCLUSION

Finito, home sweet home, ending of trip this is. Transitions are usually bittersweet for me; rarely do I feel completely happy or sad. At the same I feel happy to have accomplished this trip but sad to leave new-found friends behind, and time to came back to civilisation, back to earth, back to work!

“Your daily life is your temple and your religion.”

“And your body is the harp of your soul. And it is yours to bring forth sweet music from it or confused sounds.”

“The soul unfolds itself, like a lotus of countless petals.”

“Beauty is eternity gazing at itself in a mirror. But you are eternity and you are the mirror.” (Ann Rowthorn)

The photos like all the people there but not there with me, reflect the times I found home in the midst of half a world away.

Hiking the trail was a great experience. It’s not for everyone, because it is a really hard hike, but it sure made the experience of arriving at Machu Picchu really seem like an accomplishment and that I had really “earned” my trip there.

I can’t say enough about our guides and staff in Peru – they absolutely made my trip. Our guides, especially, opened up a whole window on the culture of Peru that I would not have been able to experience on my own. They truly are the best of the best of all the guides in Peru. I hear this countless times from people who come back from their trips, but the guides usually are the best part of the experience for people. Henrique on Lake Titicaca was superb!

Wow! That’s really all I can say. Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow!

I can’t believe I made it. I have seen and done so much over the past 4 weeks

I have had some amazing experiences and some very tiring ones. I have come through some excellent times and some difficult times. We have always been there for each other.

Cuzco was a massive highlight, visiting a city where history is still being made by the day was a fascinating experience for me. The Amazon was an unforgettable experience, the wildlife was really great. Our planet is very fragile; I wish people will take more care of it. You realised how fragile the eco system is in the Amazon Basin. The Inca civilisation was truly fascinating, I have learnt so much! I will repeat myself again, but that was really an overwhelming experience never to be forgotten…

Sources of my researches:

 

Internet:

- Wikipedia

- Sacred-Destination.com

- Seat61.com

- SacredSites.com

- Unesco.org

- BBC News

- TheMysteriousCitiesOfGold.com

 

Books:

Tintin et le temple du soleil – Hergé, 1949

The Rough Guide to Peru, 2003

Bibliothèque du Voyageur – Pérou, Gallimard, 2004

Secret and Mysteries Nasca Mines (The Essential Guide), 2001

Geo-Histoire, «L’or des Andes : sur la route des Incas», 2008

Geo, «Tintin, Grand Voyageur du Siècle» – Editions Moulinsart, 2001

 

+ Various tourist brochures picked up along the way…

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Just a word…

I have decided to give away 2% of my royalties on this book to a charity called “Inti Runakunaq Wasin”.

Inti Runakunaq Wasin is a not for profit organization with a mission to contribute to the integral development of children, adolescents, and young people with special needs in Cusco, Peru. All find themselves in high-risk situations due to extreme poverty, being abandoned, or being victims of some form of family violence.

For ten years, Inti Runakunaq Wasin has been offering voluntary educational services to children and adolescents. These development, creative, and vocational programs are offered in the mornings and afternoons.

Since 2006, Inti Runakunaq Wasin has initiated a pilot program for children and adolescents with special needs. The special needs children participate alongside the other children of Inti Runakunaq Wasin in the following workshops: handicrafts in leatherwork, sewing, embroidery, jewelry making, cooking and baking.

One of Inti Runakunaq Wasin’s goals is to promote the strengthening of family units and to improve the relationships of parents with their children, through their School for Parents program, which provides fundamental support for the sustainability of the children’s progress and their ability for success.

Isabelle GUYOT

Ps. If you too want to donate to Inti Runakunaq Wasin, please go to: http://www.streetkidscusco.org/volunteer.html

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Copyright © 2004-2012 by ISABELLE GUYOT. Text copyright.

The right of Isabelle Guyot to be identified as the Author of the Work as been asserted by her in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patent Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Copyright © 2012, LDN HOUSE. All rights reserved.

 

 

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